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New member....1st MV...06 F4 S...

The bike seems like it has excessive engine braking, and requires a really large blip to even get close to rev matching. Is this normal?

I've done a search on EBS, but am still unclear on how the system works. Does someone have time to explain it in detail, or share a link that does?

Thanks
 

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OK I will give it a go.When you close the throttle ignition is cut to No.2 cylinder and it acts as a compressor therefore giving you engine braking.Thats probably why you get that pop from the exhaust when you roll back on the throttle,unburnt fuel igniting.Hope I got that right,I will soon be told otherwise.
 

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Sorry mate, what do you mean excessive, what are you comparing it to ?

The EBS system on your bike is controlled by the Eprom inside the ECU, this in turn controls a solenoid which opens a air bleed system to one of your cylinders, this helps reduce engine braking.
However, the EBS system only work between a pre-set rev range, I can't tell you what that is on your bike, but I think it stop's at about 4000RPM, I might be wrong.

I have run my bike without it, and it does produce a lot of engine braking, but nothing more than any other 1000 I've ridden.
I use a Microtec ECU which allows me to adjust the EBS settings.
Hope this helps.
 

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engine braking?

The bike seems like it has excessive engine braking, and requires a really large blip to even get close to rev matching. Is this normal?
really?????

riding long? try a KTM 640 Duke ll, a 625cc 13:1 SINGLE....

pull the clutch, kill the motor in 4th at 45MPH, let the clutch out......

rear wheel is LOCKED PERIOD DOT END OF STATEMENT...

you MUST use the compression release:jsm::jsm:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry mate, what do you mean excessive, what are you comparing it to ?

The EBS system on your bike is controlled by the Eprom inside the ECU, this in turn controls a solenoid which opens a air bleed system to one of your cylinders, this helps reduce engine braking.
However, the EBS system only work between a pre-set rev range, I can't tell you what that is on your bike, but I think it stop's at about 4000RPM, I might be wrong.

I have run my bike without it, and it does produce a lot of engine braking, but nothing more than any other 1000 I've ridden.
I use a Microtec ECU which allows me to adjust the EBS settings.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Donsy,

I have a hunch that my system is not working correctly, and this should be a helpful start.

Any idea if the dealer documentation has more in depth info?
 

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Download the workshop manual from my website, have a bit of a fiddle, and then speak to Merc07 -- http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/member.php?u=21379 -- about doing some work on your Eprom if you need it.
Where in the world are you located ?
 

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Does not the S have an EBS relay independant of the ECU located under on the left side front of the bike ?

As I understand under engine braking this system results in the EBS solenoid opening an air valve ( taking fitered air from the left side of the airbox ), and feeding this air along with an injection of fuel into #2 cylinder intake downstream of the butterfly. This mixture is ignited and adds a little torque to reduce engine braking effect.

So EBS is a kind of misnomer as it actually is an Engine braking reduction system :)

Those EBS relays are known to fail ....

from the 1000R 2007 the EBS function is controlled by the ECU.

Correct me if that's wrong guys :)

joe
 

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You're right you, but almost to the "T", when the EBS relay fails, the solenoid stay "open", making the bike run on 3 cylinders.
Donsy, you sure? usually they are spring loaded closed as a default position too
only opening with a charge going to the solenoid

:drummer:
 

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Donsy, you sure? usually they are spring loaded closed as a default position too
only opening with a charge going to the solenoid

:drummer:
How many times have you heard of guys with 1000S models complaining about bikes running on three cylinders, only to find a faulty EBS relay to be the culprit Noel.
I'm not saying you're wrong, just that I've not heard of EBS failing in this manner, not opening the solenoid ?
There might be a first I suppose.
 

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How many times have you heard of guys with 1000S models complaining about bikes running on three cylinders, only to find a faulty EBS relay to be the culprit Noel.
I'm not saying you're wrong, just that I've not heard of EBS failing in this manner, not opening the solenoid ?
There might be a first I suppose.

lets put it this way Donsy, the normal position of the solenoid is closed correct, IE not allowing air IN?

so you're running on all 4 right?

EBS relay activates solenoid opening air into #2 intake tract effectively killing cylinder #2 and decreasing engine braking

if they designed it so the relay is constantly activated to keep it closed, IE running on all 4 then when it fails the bike runs on 3 cylinders

kind of stupid don't you think?

of course I can't think of any other electronic oddities the Italians have come up with:naughty::naughty:

like negative ignition timing
 

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My understanding is that the EBS is actually an " anti-engine braking" system. It achieves this by introducing a bit of filtered air and a bit of fuel into #2 cylinder down stream of and when the butterflies are closed, so adding a little torque to work against engine braking, hence reducing the tendency to lock the rear wheel when the throttle is snapped shut.

In short ebs fires on #2 when the throttle is shut and the revs are above a certain figure ....

correct me if I'm wrong :)

joe
 

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I just went through a bunch of wiring diagrams for these bikes and the EBS solenoid is not listed. (or I could not recognize it) The only electrical test listed is a continuity check.

I'd suspect the shelf state of the EBS solenoid would have the EBS valve closed...i.e. Energize to Actuate.

Keeping that solenoid energized to keep the valve closed during most riding would shorten its life dramatically.

Solenoid are essentially slip fit magnets with the actuate device being the core of the magnet. Some type of spring arrangement usually pushes the device into the correct position when the coil is de-energized.

Dons, can you tell what the shelf state of the EBS solenoid may be?
Can you find it on the electrical diagram?

That would help me digest this.

If the EBS relay fails in a way as to tell the EBS solenoid to stay energized, thus opening the EBS valve, that would explain what we think we are seeing with an EBS relay failure.
 

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I have little doubt that you're right about the solenoid operation Chuck, closed when de-energised.
I was just saying that every time one of the EBS relays seem to fail, the solenoid stay activated, almost like the contact in the relay burning stuck closed if you know what I mean.

Not saying that it's impossible that the OP's solenoid has not failed etc.
 

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I was thinking that the Anti-Bounce stuff was EBS...why not call it what it is?

It's like the "intermittency"...WTF?
 

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Oh, its definitely closed without power to it.....

90 psi of shop air won't go through it on the workbench


fixed my mistake Donsy
 
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