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Discussion Starter #1
I started a new thread on this because the original title was not in line with the topic.

As some of you know I've been fiddling with the cooling system to try to reduce the temp. For those of you who aren't familiar I've done the following. Added a third fan from a Duc 1098, installed a manual fan switch right off the battery which runs all three fans, coated the headers, insulated the heat exchanger and oil filter, added Muzzy blades to the stock fans, ducted the fans to get rid of the gap and improve airflow through the rad, opened up the bypass holes in the thermostat and filled it with engine ice.

The conditions-

Ambient temp 70F, fairings installed, engine idling.

Results-

Engine temp increase is a little slower than normal.
Turning the fans on manually at 165F maintains 165F. Doesn't get any hotter.
Three fans came on at 212F, temp drifted up to 214F and dropped rapidly to 195F at which point fans shut off. Did three cycles and all the same readings.
When fans shut off at 195F I turned them on with the switch. Temp dropped to 171F and would have continued to drop but it was enough for me.
On engine shut down ran fans for one minute and temp dropped to 147F.
Headers were warm but could be touched, fans were cold and the general area in front of the engine was just slightly warm. Took a side fairing off to check all that.

I'm pleased with the results. The fairings on made no difference in readings. It will no doubt be warmer on a 95 degree day but not by that much. 25 degree increase in air temp isn't going to drastically alter the cooling. So there. How ya' like them apples?

Results
 

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way to go - thats good news, all ive done is engine ice
but i plan on coating the headers too - how did you insulate
the oil cooler and oil filter ?

thanks

steve
 

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Way to go Lee. You have done great work. Many people have tried Muzzy fan blades, coating the headers, using engine ice or water wetter and all have had varying degrees of success. But nothing like what you experienced by adding a fan. Even if your bike doesn't over heat, but you just don't like the looks of it running at 220f and higher it sounds like adding another fan is the answer yielded the greatest results.

If I were you I would retitle the thread "the best fix yet for overheating"

Hopefully you will be offering this fix for sale for us bolt on and go folks?

CAG
 

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Good work Lee, I always wondered why MV didn't put a third fan in there. Maybe due to the weight etc.

At least there is a possible fix for the 1000r and R312. My 1000s does not overheat with the simple mods that I've done.
 

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Lee Is The Man!!!!!!!!

:bawling:
thank you so much Lee
:bawling:
we finally have an answer to the problem!
you should send us pics and details of what you did:yo:
 

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Lee

patent it, and send onto MV,

infact no, they will already know, as they read through this forum and blindly pass over problems we have

nice work, would love to see some pics posted of your work
 

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LEE: the Living MV Agusta Hero.
you are the Man!!!
Congrats!!!
 

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Good work Lee, do you have any pictures of the mounting of the third fan?
 

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I'm pleased with the results. The fairings on made no difference in readings. It will no doubt be warmer on a 95 degree day but not by that much. 25 degree increase in air temp isn't going to drastically alter the cooling. So there. How ya' like them apples?

Results[/quote]
I love them apples.
Good work and show us a pic of your handy work :yo:
 

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Good work and thanks for sharing the info :smoking:

Now a good "how to" on mounting that third fan would be great :yo:
 

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Well I certainly hope Lee is planning on offering this in kit form. The fan, bracket, wiring, switch etc. C'mon Lee, your public awaits!

CAG
 

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I'm pleased with the results. The fairings on made no difference in readings. It will no doubt be warmer on a 95 degree day but not by that much. 25 degree increase in air temp isn't going to drastically alter the cooling. So there. How ya' like them apples?

Results
We are going to have to beg to differ here Lee, I have done the fairings on/off thing with my 1000R and it makes a massive difference, why it doesn't on yours I don't know, maybe because the only bikes that have the overheating issues are 1000R's and 312's?

I even watched the fans cutting on and off when the bike was on the rollers having the PC set up, something that did surprise me:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you all for the more than kind comments. A few words. This appears to work. However a few runs in a shop at idle rpm are hardly an acid test of something. The true test is to get it out on the road and run it and run it and run it. In my experience doing this sort of thing I have found that it may be fine initially but after subjecting it to real world conditions a problem will appear. For example. Did I make the mounting brackets strong enough? Is the adhesive that bonds the mounts to the rad going to hold up? Will the slight amount of added weight cause a failure of the top rad mount brackets? Vibration and heat can work their nasty wonders on things so it's too soon to tell. Give it 500 miles or even 1000 and then see if it's a good deal.

As for producing the setup. It is very difficult to hand make something and mount it without having (in this case) the radiators and better yet the bike to fit it to. I simply do not have the facilities to put together a "bolt on" kit. Nor am I willing, at this point, to take someone's money for something that may fail or not fit their bike. Too soon. The only way I would even consider doing this for anyone is to have their bike, or at the very least the radiators. The close tolerances can't be achieved and they're one of the factors.

I think that you guys could do two things which would help a great deal. Coat the headers and install a manual fan switch. Look at my previous posts on fans, manual switches and test results without the third fan connected.

There is one drawback to this setup. The alternator does not put out at idle. It is designed that way per FBF. It comes in at about 1800 rpm. So when the fans run at idle they're sucking the battery down. You can see the inst panel lights dim when they come on. I think that probably happens with a stock bike as well. So the question arises "how long can one sit at idle with the fans running before killing the battery to the point the ECU dies"? There's always a downside to this s---.

MikeF4- I can't explain why the fairings don't appear to affect it. I believe there is enough space around the inside of the fairings for the air to exit. I don't care where it goes once it's through the rads, and I doubt that the space is sooo limited that the interior of the fairings is being pressurized to the point that it restricts the inflow. I can feel it coming out around the rear of the fairings and the slot in the belly pan which in a way is good because it's cooling the interior down some.

Sorry for the long winded speech.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You like those lousy worm drive hose clamps? Kinda' cheezy on a Tambo.
When I put the Ti pipes on I'll have to do better than those.
 

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Thanks for the pics Lee, nice work on the 3rd fan by the way, you echoed one of my concerns, that being the alternator output at idle.

I looked at a 07 Blade and R1 the other day, both have a rad about the size of the MV's top one, both have one fan..............I have a test ride booked on both once we say :wave: to the :freezing::lightning
 

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Discussion Starter #20
MikeF4,

Regarding the alternator/battery business. The stock batt is rated at 8.6 amp hrs. I don't know if that means one hour's worth of 8.6 amps will result in a dead battery or if there's still some % of reserve left. These three fans draw a bit under 10 amps total which I assume would mean they could be run for .86 hours. What's that, maybe 50 minutes? Anyway I'm comfortable that they won't be run for anywhere near that long before the alternator kicks back in. Should the traffic be that bleeding bad I'm going to pull off and have a fag or two. Wonder why the alt doesn't put out at idle? Any one know?

Lee
 
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