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I am having a lot of reliability issues with my motorcycle which is a 2013 MV Agusta F4RR after the service. The bike just stops in the middle of the highway due to some random issues. If we turn the ignition off and let the ECM go to sleep and start, the bike starts. The bike is so unsafe because it can never be predicted when it will stop running. (Sometimes this happens at 70mph, sometimes at 45mph). Today it gave me a Suspension ECU Malfunction (Now what the heck is that!?). I have added coolant so many times in the bike to the exact volume still it will start setting the coolant temp error when the bike is hot and the back pressure is so much that it starts dripping coolant out of the bike.
 

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I also have a 2013 F4RR but thankfully it seems pretty solid. it does however every now and again flash up the same suspension issue, tuning it off and on sorts it out. Probably happened 4 times in one year so pretty rare.

Can you not get a dealer to check the ECU version and download the latest?

I run ECU studio but prior to this I was running the OEM ECU software and I did have my dealer bring It up to the latest version.

The coolant issue I have no idea but again In ECU studio I have set the fan to turn on earlier so the bike never gets to overheating, even on track in Malaysia where the heat is pretty relentless.
 

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Your coolant level should be maintained at the MINIMUM mark when cold...otherwise it will simply piss out the excess when hot.
 

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Thanks @jhollis and @silentservice703. I just got the latest ECU SW version from the OEM on my bike from the dealer. It is still doing it. Mine is rear like twice or thrice a year but riding it at a 70mph highway and having no power is scary. I think it is more of coolant issue. Because the bike has huge backpressure (when hot). This is the first time I asked the dealer to perform coolant flush because I usually do it; even then I had same issues. If the coolant is even 2 drops in the reservoir tank if will just spit everything in the parking lot. I think I will go with the ECU studio as suggested now. I have Aprilia's and BMW's. Never had any issues with those.

Thanks guys for the reply!
 

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SAJMANI question: you are saying that even if the reservoir is below minimum you Still have coolant coming out of overflow hose? Do you hear the coolant boiling? Take bodywork off and see if your radiator cap isn't leaking under pressure. if your reservoir has no coolant when you start bike and it fills reservoir and overflows then you might have a bad head gasket . The engine would be over pressurizing your cooling system . Still unlikely but it can happen .
 

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Hi @[email protected]. This is exactly what happens. My reservoir has no coolant as the bike spits everything off if there is any. And as soon as I start the bike and let it run till the fan kicks in, the coolant in the lines get filled in the reservoir (definitely saying the engine is creating a lot of backpressure). I have checked and am totally certain that my radiator cap does not leak under pressure; maybe because the liquid has an easier pass to go ( reservoir and coolant overflow line). So head gasket is bad as per suggestion? I have never had the engine open. This sounds interesting.
 

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Might be as simple as an air lock, the F4 isn't as easy as jap bikes to get all the air out. Almost certainly you have air in the system now. Normally if the system boils quickly it can also be a sign of air with the system.

You have the bleed on the pipe ( clutch lever side) but you also need to elevate the front wheel according to the manual. Last time I drained mine I raised the front by only about 2' and it seemed to do the trick.
 

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I am having a lot of reliability issues with my motorcycle which is a 2013 MV Agusta F4RR after the service. The bike just stops in the middle of the highway due to some random issues. If we turn the ignition off and let the ECM go to sleep and start, the bike starts. The bike is so unsafe because it can never be predicted when it will stop running. (Sometimes this happens at 70mph, sometimes at 45mph). Today it gave me a Suspension ECU the sameMalfunction (Now what the heck is that!?). I have added coolant so many times in the bike to the exact volume still it will start setting the coolant temp error when the bike is hot and the back pressure is so much that it starts dripping coolant out of the bike.[/QUOTE0] i have the same problem
 

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@sajmani the radiator cap has to release for coolant to go into the reservoir (expansion tank). If it is not holding pressure then what you describe is exactly what happens.... Take the cap off and have it tested (or test yourself if you have the tool).

Haven't looked at the later model bikes radiator caps, but suspect it is a common design (unlike the older ones!) and you may be able to buy one rated for a higher pressure.

The coolant issue is a simple thing...your dealer has not found the root cause. I seriously doubt you have a blown head gasket.

As for your engine shutting off while riding....does this happen when engine temp goes extremely high? Just what are the conditions when it shuts off?
 

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it happens to me the same thing I leave a picture there so you can see what the error is, I walk and when I go to 8000 or 10,000 rpm the board goes off and the bike shorting and also gets very hot, like the friend I started once a year and now it's every time I run it
 

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You need to hook up (or have the dealer hook up) the diagnostic software and see what specific "Detected Trouble Code" is being generated. Then that fault can be addressed.

Cannot imagine a suspension fault code is causing running problems, unless it is a fail safe mode because the ECU thinks you are in danger (cutting power to keep you from crashing).

Also can't believe that is related to temperature.... unless engine heat is causing an electrical malfunction.

First things first....what is the DTC that is turning on the dash "Fault".
 

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Hi @esq'z me... I am not certain when the shutting off happens. I would agree that it is related to heating. The problem is MV dash does not give us the temperature (it just gives us bar indication). It should not get hot as the fan should kick in. I checked the fans in the garage and they are working fine.

Thanks for the advise. I will definitely look for a higher pressure radiator cap.
 

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Hi @esq'z me....
So now that the weather has started to cool off here in Michigan; I started riding the F4RR again. In the colder weather (let's say 55-65 F), I never had any heating issues or the bike stalling issues. I guess the fan kicks in really late on the bike. I will re-time the fan to see if that fixes the problem while riding in heat next year. Also, engine oil. The manufacturer and dealer suggests 10W60 which is very thick. Should I go for a different oil like 5W40 or 10W40? Any recommendations?
 

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10-60 is only thick when hot... Use what is called for.
 

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it happens to me the same thing I leave a picture there so you can see what the error is, I walk and when I go to 8000 or 10,000 rpm the board goes off and the bike shorting and also gets very hot, like the friend I started once a year and now it's every time I run it
2 issues I have had, might be worth checking. You have 4 relays on the LHS of the bike next to the fuse box. These are labeled on the wires as F, B, I and M. Swap the relays around, I had a relay that was causing an issue at high revs. Swap F for I and B for M. I and M are critical to the bike, F & B are for the fan and headlight, so not critical in terms of engine performance, clearly the fan is, however a brief cutout iof the fan wont cause an issue.

Note the wiring diagrams from MV Agusta are incomplete for the next bit, I can send an updated version made.

The wiring to the fuses and relays come from the starter relay. The big one under the rider seat. The 2 red wires are in my opinion poorly specified or at least badly routed. Mine had got very hard and had several fractures. I replaced the 2 feeds from the starter relay (4 pin connector) with 75A super flexible wire. See pic.
Note that while the wires come from the starter relay, they only use the relay for the battery feed and 40A fuse.

If you are suffering a high engine speed issue with electrical brown outs or cut outs then these could contribute or be red herrings, either way it's worth checking.

Ignore the additional (temporary) wiring in my picture I'm testing a wide band O2 system (direct to ECU)
 

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