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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone gotten this tune? How is it? How does it compare to stock? Were there improvements to the TC making it more usable (based on what I've heard it's pretty crude and recommend to have turned off)?

Same goes for any other tunes. Is it a must have?
 

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I can't talk for the F3 but I use ECUStudio on the F4, it's the same base ECU and as I understand it the control structures are the same.

The traction control seems to work ok for me. At level 1 or 3 in the rain depending if I'm road or track.

As I understand it ECUstudio uses the MV TC system, you can't change the underlying algorithms and I'm not sure I'd want to.

Clearly apart from full fuel, ignition control etc, you get control over QS and Blipper settings in each gear. Rad Fan control, engine braking, fuel cut off control, lambda sensor elimination or not, exhaust valve or not and full control of the Ride by wire & can bus data logging.

Personally I've found it to be ideal for me, I've managed to get the bike to feel like mine and to get the throttle response and control to my (personal) liking.

I've posted a few times about it, have a look through the f4 and performance forums for my name or ecustudio.
 
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I am keen to know more about the Gabro tuning Too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your reply Aaron. I’ve read some of your postings about it and appreciate your knowledge. Does the tune clean the bike up even further than the most recent MV programming?

Admittedly I’m only left with what spoiled motojournalists have to say about the bike. So that is the TC is shite and the rest of the electronics are terrible depending on which version you have.

I’m still waiting for winter to end here in Minnesota. I have a friend with a ‘14 that is going to let me try his bike at Road America in May. If I like it and when my VFR800 sells I’ll likely be jumping (unless I like the S1000RR better).
 

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The inertial platform has improved imo with the updates and I assume that is true for the F3, these are ported over into ecustudio.

I'm very happy with it. Once the fueling and throttle is fixed, it's a very good bike.

I recently built a 2018 racebike for one of my old team mates. I prefer the MV to ride, the R1 is fast and capable but a bit cold. The R1 also cost about 1600 quid to sort the fueling ( was worst standard throttle I have ever used) quickshifter and blipper.

If you go on YouTube look for a flying lap of Cadwell Park, it's fast, twisty, you need a bike that handles and responds well to the throttle and brakes to ride with confidence. My first time there with the MV was one of oh dear what have I done? Once I sorted the control and fueling (in my case ecustudio) it felt like my favourite circuit again.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
the R1 is fast and capable but a bit cold. The R1 also cost about 1600 quid to sort the fueling ( was worst standard throttle I have ever used) quickshifter and blipper.


What else does it need outside of a reflash and maybe a pipe? Its funny how people differ on opposite sides of the pond. Over here people are foaming at the mouth about how good the R1 is.
 

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What else does it need outside of a reflash and maybe a pipe? Its funny how people differ on opposite sides of the pond. Over here people are foaming at the mouth about how good the R1 is.
Don't get me wrong the R1 is a really competent bike. If I was still racing and the the objective was to collect as many pots as possible I'd probably buy the R1. As there are more people making more parts etc. And if I have a problem then there are 50 people in the paddock with R1s that I can ask, or beg \ borrow parts from.

If my intention was just to do the odd race and have a lot of fun it's the FROM hands down.

At the end of the day both bikes are better than me. I think the R1 might be initially easier to ride fast if you have always had jap bikes, although the the riding position is getting higher.

Many of us end up on this forum because we just wanted an MV, I could have bought the R1 or the new GSXR ( only ever raced GSXRs in terms of 4 strokes) but wanted the F4 as it's special the F3 is similar. The DR is still the only machine I've had people taking pictures of.

Objectively I had some major issues with the electronics on the R1, very first thing you have to do is move the ecu, either strain the wires or do a full loom chop and move it to under the seat. The ABS is junk, even if you turn it off, you are left with a strange leaver feel that does not inspire you. The F4s abs is actually quite good and if you turn it off it feels just like a Brembo or galespeed in my case should.

The MV will always draw attention in 2 years the R1 will not be new and something else will be the must have.

As to what else you need on an F3? Clearly pipe, flash, blipper if not standard, air filter. Double bubble screen depending how tall and where you ride. But that's a std list for most bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
What's your opinion on how an F3 800 would do on a track day hanging with 1000's? I gather it's a lot about the rider. My buddies all have R1's and RSV4's. I'm entertained by the idea of an S1000RR (maybe CBR1000RR) but I'm not sure that I REALLY need the power. My track bike history is a GS500, Daytona 675/Street triple, SV650, RC51 ('07 CBR600RR for this year). I was pretty quick and finally got into the fast group with the RC51. It's mass was causing me problems, its quite the handful for me. I'm 5' 7" and 29 inch inseam so a tall 480lb bike makes life "interesting".

Your list of parts seems like about what I was thinking as well. Add suspension to the list of course. It being the serious toy bike it could use the extra bling hehe.
 

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I used to race a 750 against the 1000s back in the early 2000s. Through the stop start twisty sections it was easy to stay with them, on a straight however all things being equal I'd lose 5 or 6 bike lengths, only to make it all up through the bends.

I'd assume the F3 would be similar. If your tracks a large GP style it may be harder to stay with your mates, if the circuits are more scratching types (like the UK) then they may pull away on the straights but you will have a slight advantage through the tight sections, less weight and easier to use power.

The big thing is the weight, given what you said about the 600 I'd say go small and be comfortable. In the end it will be more fun and it's still a weapon.

If a mate on an R1 loses you on the straight, they have no bragging rights, you get the jump on them coming out of a chicane then you get the bragging rights even if they pass you in a straight line.

Oh obviously add clip-ons to your list.
 
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This is my experience with running my 675R versus some of the larger bikes, given rider skill does have quite a bit to do with your results also.
As mentioned above, you can exploit the larger bikes in areas where it is tighter, off camber, quicker transitions, and places where the bikes can only use so much power.

The F3 800 I feel is a very suitable compromise where you will not need all the electronic aids, to put down the power. With tire technology 140rwhp should not be overwhelming a slick, and I would say without being totally hamfisted, a supercorsa SP should be fine for MANY trackday riders, especially in the intermediate groups.

The main reason I bought my f3 800 was to have that addition 25rwhp and torque over my 675R, and maintaining the fun and enjoyment of a supersport.. Will be looking at my first track review of the bike on 28 may. will have y 675R for comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The main reason I bought my f3 800 was to have that addition 25rwhp and torque over my 675R, and maintaining the fun and enjoyment of a supersport.. Will be looking at my first track review of the bike on 28 may. will have y 675R for comparison.
This is one of the reasons I would be buying as well. Like I said I'm not sure I need the extra 80 hp of a 1000. I also am buying because sexy hehe.


I'm looking forward to reading your track review! I'll be trying out a friends bike on the track next month as well.
 

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I had 2 plans for a bike, build a 765 motor for my 675R ($6000) or buy a another bike and mod it a bit.. the F3 is a stunner, and personally like the seating position better, and the reverse rotating crank has some serious benefits from my experience. The main issue I think I will have is keeping the front wheel down in 1-3rd gear when hard on the gas. biggest complaint I have with the bike right now is the dash is more about looks than function.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
It will be an adventure for me as I have never had a bike that would lift the front wheel. Or I'm just too much of a pansy to ride it hard enough. I was told my RC51 would wheelie like crazy, I never got it to...... But I prefer to think about it that my throttle control is smooth and progressive that I can keep the bike accelerating had and both wheels on the ground. O:)
 

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It will be an adventure for me as I have never had a bike that would lift the front wheel. Or I'm just too much of a pansy to ride it hard enough. I was told my RC51 would wheelie like crazy, I never got it to...... But I prefer to think about it that my throttle control is smooth and progressive that I can keep the bike accelerating had and both wheels on the ground. O:)
I was told the same thing, yet never found the stock 490 pig able to easily lift it up... after dropping 60lbs, 1/4 turn throttle and getting her up to 135rwhp she seemed far more willing to do so, but nothing like the F3 800 with exhaust adn tune or a literbike from 2003 on.
 

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dansoarr , could you give us a description of what the ECU studio kit contains?

Im struggling with Luca, he might be very busy at the moment and not answering all my questions in my mails.

Is his kit like a Texa where you can plug in and load maps and tune aspects like the blipper and QS? Does he provide adequate instructions? He told me he includes all the MV original maps with his kit.

Your feedback would be greatly appreciated. Im about to purchase his kit so I can activate the blipper functionality with my new EAS 2.0 QS on my F3 675.
 

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everything you ask for is in there [except for detailed instructions at the time I bought it :D], I went the same way as you did (just on my F3 800 / 2014 with EAS 1.0 -> 2.0 (with different sensor)).
Unless you know what you are doing I'd stick to the original MV maps. They are not great (due to environmental restrictions) but every good tuner should be able to get you a decent map based on that or the race maps without exhaust valve Luca also has.

If you have questins feel free to send me a message any time
 

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As Nephalem says it's all there.

So you get a pc interface and bike specific adapter (CAN bus). You also get a dongle (security) and a single ECU licence that allows you to program a single ECU as many times as you like.

The F4 uses a starlane sensor (strain based) as standard rather than the microsurgery based approach of the durashift sensor. The F4 maps now have separate voltage levels for at rest, shift up and shift down.

Luca has a small team (he was looking to recruit) and is working on the next developments, so you are always better sending a single email with questions laid out rather than Maire emails with individual questions.

I'll send you the helpfile by pm so you can see the step by step process for your first flash. There is a section on what to do and what not to do. The worst thing you can do is flash with a low battery voltage as you can fail to flash correctly. This is easily corrected but you may lose your licence code. There are plenty of warnings in the help file.

Cheers
 
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Thanks Arron and Nephalem.

Is there any way to identify the map currently installed on the ECU?

Luca mentioned the different output voltage with the sensors for rest, up and down that the ECU is programmed to. I assume the MV EAS 2.0 for the F3 is the same sensor as on the F4?

For some reason, I cant measure any voltage on my sensor. Assuming I did everything right, did anyone else have a similar issue? It's the same story with my EAS 1.0 sensor also... Multimeter Red on Blue lead and Black on engine bolt or green lead I think. Set to DC and 20V. Always shows 0V , up, down and static...

PM sent for the help files Arron. Thanks!
 

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By convention, MV uses BLUE as ground. So, essentially you are going ground to ground. That would be ZERO vdc. I have not verified this on your wiring diagram.
 
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