[esq'z me]

@Mjvduc … that bike does not use the 1.6M.

 

[esq'z me]

Probably needs a good heavy dose of Techron in the gas to clean the system. I'd try that first.

 

[esq'z me]

Ignition spark inside a cylinder under a compressed fuel enriched atmosphere takes a great deal more energy to occur.
A good spark in the open air is no guarantee there is spark inside the combustion chamber.
Easy enough to test the injector for fuel flow..... nit so easy to test the coil for spark in operation.
The diag code would not be happening if there was not a circuit failure with the coil.

There are in-line spark testers that will let you visualize the ignition spark while teh engine is running. I have one I made myself about 5 decades ago, but with coil over plug systems maybe a commercially available would be better.
Another test is to force the coil to jump a large gap. Strong ignition systems should be able to jump an 8 mm gap in open air.

I think a new coil would be in order.. ..confirm all the wire and connections between the coil, power supply and ECU first.

 

[esq'z me]

If you have spark as you say, then it isn’t the coil pack.

You can have spark in open atmosphere yet none when inside the combustion chamber.

 

[esq'z me]

If that were the case, would the test lamp still illuminate? indicating that charge was reaching the plugs rather than actually firing the plug? Effectively showing a false positive.

Maybe.... the one I use is just a clear tube with wire ends inside about 8 mm apart. You can see teh actual spark while teh engine runs. Easy on old bikes, lawnmowers, etc. Might be tough to hook up and run the engine on modern bikes.
A good system will jump that 8mm gap and the plug gap.

 

[esq'z me]

Added resistance of the gap makes the coil work harder, hence hotter spark when it occurs.
This can happen with fouled plugs. Old 2-stroke dirt bike trick when stuck in the woods with no spare plugs, lift the cap away from the plug and the fouled plug will start the bike....tricky to do without getting a nice shock !!

 

[esq'z me]

It almost sounds as if the coils aren't getting proper voltage/current. Or the ground path (the ECU) has excess resistance? Or the dwell is insufficient. Many questions .....

As for the tank bolt. If you can drill the head off (maybe hold it with pliers while drilling) you may still be able to save the insert.
Another option is to spin the bolt head with the drill while prying up on the tank mount. The heat generated will melt the plastic and the insert will come out. You can then hold the insert while removing the fastener and then JB Weld it back into the tank. I've used that trick in the past.

 

[esq'z me]

Warped steel plates ??