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Discussion Starter #1
So I ended up buying a ducati radiator fan for nothing seeing how my original ended working fine. I have it sitting here and after some digging here I found it is the same one the guys with F4's and the 312R's installed on their radiators. Where did the brackets come from? I was thinking of installing it on the left side of the radiator with a separate switch and relay. Or will the stock setup handle another fan? BTW I already have an EPROM with a 90c fan turn on temp.

Thanks!
 

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The stock set-up will handle another fan,I have done it myself.
But you have to fabricate your own brackets.
 

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Is this for use with an SPU? I don't have a separate fan relay.[/QUOTE]

This diagram is for an F4 with early B4 as I understand it the ‘relay’ for the fan is part of the SPU unit Utility 5. But as it’s controlling a fan then fairly easy to modify it to switch a second relay and not overload the SPU circuit which can be prone to overheating.
 

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Pick any switched power lead to add the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cool. Will do. I have a 30amp relay harness I was going to use to power up dual lights on my Jeep. I will use that. How do you guys feel about using the fan radiator pins to mount the fans? You know the ones that go thru the radiator fins? Seems like the easy way to go to mount them.
 

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Not a massive fan of the pins unless you’ve got a ducted fan enclosure like a Spal. Too easy for the fan to flop around and bite through the core. The Fanzilla set up is ok but you can make or have made brackets and fittings using ally strip that hold the fan just enough away from the rad to be safe and robust.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I read that thread and every other thread that came up under "fanzilla" and "son of fanzilla". They mention taking the rad out and having mounts made by a shop. I'm not gonna do that. Incidentally that's the same fan I bought after I read all the threads. You are correct on being scared it will move. I was going to space it out from the radiator so even if it moves a millimeter or two it won't hit anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Where did you rivet those nifty brackets to? I am wondering what this Ducati fan blows in CFM and how many watts it pulls? The Spal 5.2 puller pulls 300CFM at 4.5amps/85 watts and its smaller and has its own little shroud and is not open like the Duc fan. Also there is an American Volt 6" that pulls 700CFM at 8amps. Since it's just there to "help" the OE fan I was thinking the 5.2 should enough?
 

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The 1098 fan could suck a taxi driver through immigration the pull is amazing. I could stick an ammeter on it but never felt the need as the sub circuit is more than enough for the load. It’s sort of ducted as it’s got the outer ring but it transformed the 312 from cooking at traffic lights in London to being able to leave it running on the stand. I’d tried the updated pump and coolant options prior to fitting but this just fixed it. The brackets are riveted to the outer frame of the rad just be careful to not drill too far or you risk puncturing the core.
 

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The 1098 fan could suck a taxi driver through immigration the pull is amazing. I could stick an ammeter on it but never felt the need as the sub circuit is more than enough for the load. It’s sort of ducted as it’s got the outer ring but it transformed the 312 from cooking at traffic lights in London to being able to leave it running on the stand. I’d tried the updated pump and coolant options prior to fitting but this just fixed it. The brackets are riveted to the outer frame of the rad just be careful to not drill too far or you risk puncturing the core.
F4s are known to run hotter. The original poster is concerned with his Brutale. BTW not all taxi drivers are immigrants or for that matter UBER or Lift drivers, but I digress.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@Edward I may do that. I have replaced the coolant with Prestone Blue european mix. I have installed my new chip and although the fan now comes on at 180 it will still keep creeping up slowly. By the time it gets close to 200 the lights turns green and I am moving again but I am sure that should not happen. It should keep the temp at around 190 I am guessing with the fan on. It shouldn't keep going up although very slowly. I do have the fan and will look at wiring it up with a switch. May do the water pump later. I can't help but wonder why these bikes do this. Oh well.
@Farshore you drilled into the actual radiator edge!? WOW! Ballsy move I guess. Oh and I LOL with the Taxi driver comment. If you have pics on the actual hole location that would be great. Did you remove the brackets the fan has?
 

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@Edward I may do that. I have replaced the coolant with Prestone Blue european mix. I have installed my new chip and although the fan now comes on at 180 it will still keep creeping up slowly. By the time it gets close to 200 the lights turns green and I am moving again but I am sure that should not happen. It should keep the temp at around 190 I am guessing with the fan on. It shouldn't keep going up although very slowly. I do have the fan and will look at wiring it up with a switch. May do the water pump later. I can't help but wonder why these bikes do this. Oh well.
Fans normally come on around 205-07. Creeping up 218 is still perfectly fine. Don't be afraid of a little heat. Seriously, I doubt you need a second fan. Invest in a Design Corse water pump and purge system fill with engine ice (not absolutely required mind you) and you'll be fine. Search the forum more broadly.
 

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These bikes do this because the ignition timing is not optimized for running. It is optimized to pass emissions and this has been discussed at length within this forum.

220 degrees Fahrenheit is not hot by the way. It is normal operating temperature for a high horsepower engine.
 

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The argumentative parts of this thread have been removed. Please continue civil discussion.
 
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