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I was hoping I was one of the lucky ones.......but just yesterday my 2015 dragster with 350miles has stalled 4 times on me! 3 on the downshift, and 1 time in 3rd gear.....scary when the wheel locks up outta no where! I informed my dealer but they don't know what to do yet.....dropping it off soon. This sucks!
 

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Hey Brother, just checking with you. I had the same issue initially, but once I let the bike do all it's diagnostics before starting then let it warm to 2 bars the problem went away for me.
I'm curious...what was the air temperature (weather)?
My stalls also came on cool mornings.
 

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I have a new theory on stalling. My B3 stalled on me for about 5 times in 7k Km's. This happens to me when i'm being lazy and don't bother to blip the throttle.

I've noticed that when the bike is running idle it revs at a certain RPM. When you open the throttle just a bit and close it again the revs go down and the bike runs a little rough. After 2-3 seconds the idle RPM goes up a bit.

I wonder if this happens to all B3's or just the B3's that have stalling issues. If the latter is the case then this can be used by dealers to diagnose if the problem still exists.
 

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I just checked it
My bike doesn't stall
My idle don't change, it stays always with the same rpm's
It shows two blocks on the display
 

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I have a new theory on stalling. My B3 stalled on me for about 5 times in 7k Km's. This happens to me when i'm being lazy and don't bother to blip the throttle.
Why does someone NEED to blip the throttle? At idle, the ECU should contain rpm to a band.
 

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When you roll completely off the throttle (down to zero throttle) and pull clutch in, revs drop fast and the bike stalls. My bike would not stall when downshifted without totally closing the throttle. Several times I downshifted all the way down to 1st gear with the throttle slightly open, it didn't stall. And then after getting to first gear, I slowly reduced the revs down to idle speed before shifting into neutral and letting out the clutch. And again, it would not stall.

I had a new map installed in late August by my dealer (175 miles away), and it still stalled afterwards. I took my bike to a local technician and asked him to check the sync on the throttle bodies (which was suggested by many people here). Evidently Cylinder #1 is the one that is read by the ECU. He checked it and said that #1 was completed closed, so he sync'd the throttle bodies. Stalling went away.
 

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< snip > I informed my dealer but they don't know what to do yet.....dropping it off soon. This sucks!
Stalling on clutch in is a well documented and much discussed issue here and on other forums. MV has known about this problem with it’s 3 cylinder models since the first F3’s were delivered in early 2012. We are only a couple months away from 2015 so I’m most upset with your dealer not knowing about this issue. But, I’m not surprised. There seems to be a lot of information not being transmitted to the dealers.

As Kevin rightfully points out the fault appears to be throttle body sync. There are those who say all you need is a map upgrade because that’s what they believe cured their bikes stalling. However, further investigation reveals that many owners schedule the new map install in conjunction with a regular service. Guess what? If you review the maintenance schedule list under the column header “Description” you’ll find “Throttle Body”. The next column is “Operation” which shows the required action to be taken. In this case it states, “Check and adjust”. Then, under each of the regular service intervals, (given in both kilometers and miles) there is a dot. That means at each and every service from the first one at 1000 km’s (600 miles) the technician is to check and adjust the throttle body settings. So yes, those people got a new map and their stalling problem went away but the one wasn’t the cure for the other.
This also means those of us who have had several regular services and still have stalling issues have lazy or poorly trained mechanics who did not do a proper service.

So, call your dealer. Tell them that you need this issue fixed A.S.A.P. and if they give you a hassle tell them to phone Bruce Meyers at MV Agusta America who’ll set them straight.
If you do not get satisfaction then contact me via P.M. or this thread and I’ll raise such a shit storm that the STINK will linger far into the next ice age! :shitfan:
 

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If your butterflys are off, ie out of sync how does the dealer/tech adjust them back into sync if its a servo motor that controls them, i am thinking that its must be using some kind of electronic calibration using a dealer service tool.
 

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Agreed on the poorly trained lazy mechanic.

But if the service is only an oil change, is it reasonable to expect him to strip half the bike to just check the throttle bodies (assuming you didn't inform him of stalling etc).
 

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If your butterflys are off, ie out of sync how does the dealer/tech adjust them back into sync if its a servo motor that controls them, i am thinking that its must be using some kind of electronic calibration using a dealer service tool.
Most butterflys are linked via an adjustable mechanical linkage and rotate as one once that linkage is set. Syncing them involves loosening the connection between them and adjusting where they sit in relation to each other via vacuum, or air flow, measurements and then tightening the connection back up. The connection is a rod between each butterfly that is clamped to each successive unit. The whole turns as one when everything is clamped together.

Think rotisserie chickens.:smoking:
 

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Agreed on the poorly trained lazy mechanic.

But if the service is only an oil change, is it reasonable to expect him to strip half the bike to just check the throttle bodies (assuming you didn't inform him of stalling etc).
I have a reasonable expectation for my motorcycle to be properly serviced by a fully trained technician according to the factory prescribed schedule when I take it to an authorized MV Agusta dealer or service center. So does every other MV owner!

I cannot speak for others but in my case I told everyone repeatedly, (including sales people and the Canadian MV Agusta rep) about all the problems I experienced with my bike. Each of which has been documented on this forum.
 

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Agreed on the factory prescribed schedule, though with the throttle bodies, it is quite excessive to have to do that every single service. I'm sure most dealers don't even check the valves at 12000km.

If you ever had to change the battery on your bike yourself, it is a big headache requiring all the fairings including the rear pillion fairings to be removed to be able to get the tank off. I simply cant see (and don't see) the dealers going through that process to check the throttle bodies for every single bike coming in for every single minor service. They never did that on mine and I didn't even know about it until you posted it here on the forum.

A service bulletin should have been sent by MV so that if bikes come in with the stalling symptoms, the dealers know exactly what needs to be done to sort it out. This should have been done with the sprag clutch too like it has been done with the gear position indicator. Its not like MV have thousands of dealers to attend too.

Where in the service book does it describe the exact procedure to balance the throttle bodies (Cant recall reading it - then again didn't pay much attention until now)?
 

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Nevermind, its in the Chassis manual. The air injection system pg 150 if I'm not mistaken.
It states that the sensors can be checked with the diagnostic software. It doesn't make any comment about how to go about adjusting the throttle bodies though. Isn't it connect via one servo motor though?
 

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Some more info...looks like its fixed

Initially with my bike a thought I was one of the lucky ones and stalling wasn't too much of an issue. But lately it seemed 50% of the time when I rolled up to a stop with the clutch-in the engine would stall.
So based on Stephen W.'s write up about the throttle body sync problem I pulled the gas tank / airbox off and had a look. And two out of the three cylinders had their air bleed screws screwed in all the way. (I read on other sites this in not supposed to be done, and is only done by the manufacturers to pass emission tests) I did not "synchronize" the air bleed screws, I just turned each out half-a-turn.
After putting everything back together I have since gone for two long rides with zero stalls - in my opinion, problem solved.
And just for reference purposes based on this link to the Mikuni website, our throttle bodies cannot have their synchronization adjusted. (I guess you "balance" things through these air bleed screws - which is my next project)

http://www.mikuni.co.jp/e/product/twowheel.html#link02

By the way, my bike runs and sounds better at all rpm's after this adjustment. It is about an hour work to get everything off, then another hour to put it back together, but well worth it in my opinion.

That's all for now.
Have fun out there.
 

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Koaster, I had one that was completely closed. It was on the #1 cylinder, which is supposedly the one that the ECU reads. Just don't understand why, if MV closed these to pass emissions, they didn't instruct dealers to adjust during delivery set up.
 

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Hi italia,
I'm just guessing here, but my thought is the dealer can't touch anything emission-wise that the factory sets up or there would be issues with the government. I've read Kawasaki got in trouble with their ZX-6 because the government thought it was too easy when all you had to do was cut one jumper cable to the ECU to access the "full-power-map" and bye-pass the "emission-map". (I read this in Sport Rider magazine)
And I noticed another guy posting he didn't see anything in the work-shop manual about synchronizing the throttle bodies - that's because it isn't there, I triple checked. Another sign the factory doesn't want the dealer messing with it.
 

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Koaster, I stand corrected. I’ve just learned that the tech who did my throttle sync actually just adjusted the air screws. As you, (and others) have pointed out the butterflies on our bikes are nonadjustable.
Also, I agree with you that the procedure isn’t shown as it’s probably an emissions thing. But really, which is better, a bike that runs or one that stalls and may cause injury or worse?
 
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