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TUNE THROTTLE BODIES
when i got my F4 750 it ran a bit sluggy,bad take off,bad roll on throttle.so what i did was get the snyc gauges out and see what sort of mess the bodies were in.i would have to say this bike is the easiest bike to tune throttle.take the tank covers off,2 screws on each cover.take 3 quick release screws off (no need to take side panels off).4 rubber caps on snyc bleed nipples,remove them and put snyc hoses on.taking the airbox covers off,you can see the screws for adjusting the throttles.start the bike and rev it up to 3000rpm.you can see the gauges if they are out of sync.adjust the screw to match the gauge (not more than 1.5 turns out).when the needles are the same height,its done.its as easy as that.then put all the parts back as they came and RIDE.when i just did the throttles on my bike it made such a difference,it a new bike.easy take offs,better throttle response.dont pay someone for a job that is as easy as riding

:silly:
 

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Maybe James can chime in here.

I thought the screws on the TB's were to adjust the synch at idle only.

When you rev the engine to 3K, aren't you suppose to adjust the linkages to synch them?.

The screws are air bypass screws correct???
The shop manual states to synch them at idle, what about off idle?

John T (needing to do this)
 

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HI Tambo and John,

In my opinion both are correct. Set the balance at idle but check your work with rising revs. Manual specifies at idle (I give the correct range below) but many find it helpful to verify this with higher revs. Don't adjust at higher but do ensure they check out. If using a mercury gauge be careful not to go off throttle too abruptly at higher revs or you'll suck the mercury into the throttle bodies!! I prefer and suggest a morgan carbtune.


Tambo, the air bypass screw range differs by model:

F4 Oro: 1/2 turn to 1 turn air bypass opening. Idle 1250 +/- 50 RPM. CO 4 +/- .5%
F4 750 2000/01: 1/2 turn to 1 turn air bypass opening. Idle 1250 +/- 50 RPM. CO 4 +/- .5%
F4 750 Senna/2002/2003/2004/SPR/SR: 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 air bypass opening. Idle 1150 +/- 50 RPM. CO 3.5 +/- .5%
Brutale 750 2003/2004/2005: 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 air bypass opening. Idle 1150 +/- 50 RPM. CO 3.5 +/- .5%
Brutale 910: 1 to 3.5 turns air bypass opening. Idle 1200 +/- 50RPM. CO 3.5 +/- .5%

Because of the unique EBS system on the 1000 the procedure is somewhat different for that model (1000S, Ago, Tamburini, Senna1000, 1000R). The factory specifies that you first adjust Cylinder #2 starting at 1.5 turns and try to stay as close as possible to that position while balancing the other three cylinders. The range for cylinder #2 is 1 - 2.5 turns. The range for cylinders 1,3,4 is 1 - 3.5 turns. End idle result should be 1200 RPM +/- 50.



We haven't written up the process for the 1000R/Senna1000 yet but need to do it. I'd like a live bike to show pictures and make sure what I say in theory works in practice with no gotchas.

Also if you do the work to balance you may as well check your CO% in my opnion. Although the TB Balance affects the throttle feel more than the a/f ratio (CO%) both make a difference. Look up a Gunsen gastester for a good reliable unit.
 

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a nice write up with pics would be awsome.....and if you could give some details on sync guages to purchase that would be awsome....i would like to learn this technique....especially since i have to drive 4 1/2 anytime i want to take my bike for service.
 

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James, Tambo
You guy's mentioned "gauges" for the snyc-ing of the throttle bodies. What type of gauges are you refering to? I used to use a sync-o-meter for the Dellorto carbs on my old school RX-7. Is this what you guy's are refering to?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hi.well i use the mercury gauge,i think it works best.ok to tuning the bike on idle(DONT WORK).my mate has the spr 750,i tuned it on idle and it was throwing fuel out the pipes like i as putting fuel in the tank.then i tuned the bike at about 3000rpm and it is perfect.i did the same to my 750 MV and it was the same,tuning it on idle did not work.so to tuning on idle,i would like to know who that works for.???it is basic to do but what you read and what works,sometimes is different...idle dont work for me.ill try idle on my Tambo and see whats better
 

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TAMBO_DUCK said:
hi.well i use the mercury gauge,i think it works best.ok to tuning the bike on idle(DONT WORK).my mate has the spr 750,i tuned it on idle and it was throwing fuel out the pipes like i as putting fuel in the tank.then i tuned the bike at about 3000rpm and it is perfect.i did the same to my 750 MV and it was the same,tuning it on idle did not work.so to tuning on idle,i would like to know who that works for.???it is basic to do but what you read and what works,sometimes is different...idle dont work for me.ill try idle on my Tambo and see whats better
The full set up as in James's FAQ IS the factory way of doing it. and it says "do not touch or adjust anything with yellow paint" i.e: the synch between the two halves of the throttles, However, If I synched mine at idle it was out a long way at 3000 or whatever I lifted it too, setting it at 3000 and it only idled on 3 cylinders, I set all 4 adjustment screws to the book setting, set the balance at 3000 with the "yellow painted" adjuster, then re-synchronised the idle and mixture screws at idle, perrrfffecccct!! :)
 

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Yes please elaborate. I'm think I'm going to have to do this myself shortly, on the 1000 and wqould love to know how it's done for my bike.
 

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JAmes
Any specifics on how it should be done correctly for the 1000? I've been to your site and the tune section is very informative, but a little general in nature and I'm not sure how much is true for my bike. Maybe you can explain, or point me in the right direction. :stickpoke :)
Thanks
Paul K.
 

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I am planning on doing this procedure as well using a gas analyzer and the Morgan Carbtune. Any specifics for a 1000 and some photos would be fantastic.
 

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I put details for every different model including the 1000 in the writeup including how to balance, the correct idle speed and the throttle body adjustment screw limits with regard to the EBS. Other than basing the balance of of cylinder 2 the setup is exactly the same method whether brutale 750 or Tamburini.

Every action applies equally to every MV model up to but excluding senna1000/1000R. Is there something in particular I can explain? I would be happy to do so. Perhaps IM is easier? PM me if you want IM info.
 

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James,

I am aware of the FAQ writeup. Fantastic website by the way. I was planning on doing this service on an F4 1000 Ago and posting pics and a writeup of the job specificially for the 1000. It may be overkill, but I have always liked directions on the specific thing you are working on. It will take me awhile to acquire the tools and equipment to do this, but the plan is in place. I think the scary part about it is that I have never performed this type of service before and the bike is expensive. However, I have never been completely satisifed with any service I have paid for. That may stem from the fact that I always find new scratches and crap on my bike afterward. If possible, I would love to see a set of pictures and instructions specificially for F4 1000.

Thanks
 
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