MV Agusta Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If your like me and noticed the MWR intake funnels are crazy expensive but want the easy power upgrade. I went the custom route with about only 3 hours work. I ordered Carbonin race intake tubes for a fraction of the cost compared to MWR tubes and they are even larger. You can see in the photos they are longer then OEM so they require a slight Dremel cut, also they are wider as seen in the picture from the top so to plastic cover above them need a slight trim as well. I was able to remove the stock ones and fit the new ones with out even removing the tank or air box. I don't have a before and after dyno, most likely the power would be more apparent on the highway and a potential for more torque, Im planning on getting a dyno probably at the end of summer just for the fun of it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
not sure if it is the site or there is no pics, but very interested in this mod.. Who did you buy the tubes from, cost?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
606 Posts
What Filter did you use?


Here you can see the difference in breathing area between the Brutale 800 MWR filter and the OEM filter



 
  • Like
Reactions: lostscot and mgucci

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
idk ive already got the race filter, I just think the oem runners would provide amble air flow above 80mph to help reduce vacuum in the box. I could be completely wrong but I have no idea is why im asking, could certainly use more power on this 675.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I have the race filter too from MWR with the adjustable air foil above the filter.

Generally speaking most of the race fairings kits for these bike provide larger intake tubes so there must be some benefit... and when you pull the OEM tubes off; the opening in the air box is much larger then the neck of the air tube. If you have a autotunner or a dyno tune there is no reason why you wouldn't see some improvement. More air more fuel more power, Especially if you have a full exhaust you may not have the correct vacuum between intake and exhaust. My rule of thumb is every exhaust upgrade warrants upgrade to the intake.

This is just a FYI in case someone was thinking about it, The race fairing tubes can easily fit the OEM fairing with a coupe quick small cuts and you don't have to spend a lot if you go about it like I did.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts


This is what I have on my F3 race bike. I believe the racing filter configuration
is what I have and the diffuser plate type is the standard offering from MWR?

Here are the air tubes that go with the filter kit. The openings in the fairing had to be opened up a little.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Nice, I like the radiator. I moved my battery into the tail. Yea I think I have the middle grade filter I wonder what was the need for the completely different intake filter designs and if the company actually tested for air flow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
They changed the design for some reason. We've run my F3 a number of times on the dyno with several different configurations. Not much difference each time. Maybe the ram air effect adds a little power.

Don't know if this shows it very well but the fairing holes are opened up to allow more air through the tubes. If it makes much difference - hard to say. But I didn't have to ruin the look of the intakes to make the holes somewhat bigger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts


Had the MWR WSBK filter out of the F3 for cleaning and inspection. The inside of the airbox behind the filter and intake funnels was very clean. I can highly recommend this setup. It seals up and filters as well as can be expected. That said the filter element and the front side of the airbox was quite dirty.

If you have a F3 and you are thinking about changing the air filter and air tubes, the MWR WSBK system is an excellent choice. Not sure if the power is changed very much with this setup on the F3 because I didn't get to test the filter/tube change by itself on the dyno. It was tested with the complete SC Racing WSS system swapped from the Akrapovic/Zard header that was on it prior to that with a standard type Sprint filter. Power was increased 2~4 hp along the curve and the curve is smoother, but I don't know if the changes were attributed to the intake, the exhaust or some of both being responsible.

On my 2016 R1 the MWR WSBK filter setup was worth several HP on the dyno. Superbike Unlimited did that dyno testing and with slight ECU adjustment and the MWR filter & intake tube it was as much as 4 hp more in some places in the power curve over a new stock filter or stock type filter. No other changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
571 Posts


Had the MWR WSBK filter out of the F3 for cleaning and inspection. The inside of the airbox behind the filter and intake funnels was very clean. I can highly recommend this setup. It seals up and filters as well as can be expected. That said the filter element and the front side of the airbox was quite dirty.

If you have a F3 and you are thinking about changing the air filter and air tubes, the MWR WSBK system is an excellent choice. Not sure if the power is changed very much with this setup on the F3 because I didn't get to test the filter/tube change by itself on the dyno. It was tested with the complete SC Racing WSS system swapped from the Akrapovic/Zard header that was on it prior to that with a standard type Sprint filter. Power was increased 2~4 hp along the curve and the curve is smoother, but I don't know if the changes were attributed to the intake, the exhaust or some of both being responsible.

On my 2016 R1 the MWR WSBK filter setup was worth several HP on the dyno. Superbike Unlimited did that dyno testing and with slight ECU adjustment and the MWR filter & intake tube it was as much as 4 hp more in some places in the power curve over a new stock filter or stock type filter. No other changes.
Are you not running inlet trumpets? Or have you removed them for cleaning?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
That is a photo from MWR, there are air funnels in the F3 airbox...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
I'll take a photo next time I have the airbox open. My F3 has 3 funnels all the same length. Not sure why.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
I'll take a photo next time I have the airbox open. My F3 has 3 funnels all the same length. Not sure why.


Cleaned and oiled the air filter this weekend, so I took a picture of the stack setup inside the airbox.

Welded the Motoholders subframe, it developed a crack in a weld. I found it while doing routine maintenace and inspection. Apparently I must need to lose more weight. Maybe it was a fluke because the weld at that point wasn't as thick or uniform as the rest of the welds on this subframe. Normally Motoholders is excellent quality.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
376 Posts
My bike is 2014 675 with 2018 engine.

I have the race filter from MWR with the adjustable air foil. Is it worth it to upgrade to the WSBK setup. I plan on redoing my exhaust over the winter. I'm going to go with a triple pipe setup instead of a single pipe. I know it may sound dumb but I'm a little concerned about looks as well as performance. I might say fuck it and go all out with the MV full system with race ECU or go with HP headers and can. I'm also thinking of just decatting my stock headers and go with a different can. It all depends on money and how I want to spend it.

Once I have my exhaust/intake done with tune is a Rapid Bike auto tuning setup worth the price? Would I need to tune it with the rapid bike kit?

My other winter upgrades are the front brakes to M40 callipers. If there is extra money I may remove the head to have it ported, polished and match the headers...

Thanks for any input and advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
My bike is 2014 675 with 2018 engine.

I have the race filter from MWR with the adjustable air foil. Is it worth it to upgrade to the WSBK setup. I plan on redoing my exhaust over the winter. I'm going to go with a triple pipe setup instead of a single pipe. I know it may sound dumb but I'm a little concerned about looks as well as performance. I might say fuck it and go all out with the MV full system with race ECU or go with HP headers and can. I'm also thinking of just decatting my stock headers and go with a different can. It all depends on money and how I want to spend it.

Once I have my exhaust/intake done with tune is a Rapid Bike auto tuning setup worth the price? Would I need to tune it with the rapid bike kit?

My other winter upgrades are the front brakes to M40 callipers. If there is extra money I may remove the head to have it ported, polished and match the headers...

Thanks for any input and advice.

sorry for hijacking - in case you still need M40s, I will have a set for sale.


I'd personally recommend to go for ECU Studio, then you can custom tun and switch between maps easily if you ever decide to go back to the stock map. Of course you need to tune it for your custom setup.
Additionally you can activate the blipper to have clutchless up and downshifting if you are interested in more information feel free to reach out any time.


personally I wouldn't go for the Rapid Bike auto tune setup as it doesn't provide any additional benefit over flashing the stock ECU, except for the fact you can take it to a new bike (but so could you with the stock ECU).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
Angelo - Get the exhaust you like, you have to be happy about it, not anyone else! In my opinion the high single exit is popular for race/track bikes because it can be left in place during wheel changes. The race header/full system appears to be better than the stock header but only the dyno and tuning would prove that. It is definitely lighter weight.

Tuning is important. It is worth doing. The MWR SBK setup is probably better but again without tuning how would you know for certain. Is it worth changing from the drop in setup? IDK.

Upgrading the brakes is a good thing. The M40's are a good choice, so are the M430/M50's (basically cast versions of the expensive GP-RX billet calipers) like many Ducati's/Aprilia's come with stock and are easy to find used. When you do the caliper upgrade it is a good time to get fully floating brake rotors, many choices are available. I like and use T-drive Brembo rotors, they are excellent.

Head work - hmmm. Unless you have someone who knows these engines extremely well you could end up in worse shape than you start. My engine builder "Travis" would say be conservative, nothing radical - clean up the port flashings and imperfections, match the intake boots to the ports, run a straight cutter in the valve seat junction and blend it in, clean up around the valve guides and call it good. Without tried and true knowledge of the port flow and what is required to improve it, it could look awesome and be shitty.

If you are going to pull the head off I'd plastic gauge the piston & valve clearances and put in a thinner head gasket. Cheap way to more power across the whole rev range.

You'd likely be far better off spending your money on suspension. The forks really benefit from significant attention, they pretty much suck stock, Thermosman said when checking out stock F3 forks - for rebound nobody's home...

There are several shock options from Ohlins - at least 3 TTX variations that I'm aware of. The least expensive option is better than the vast majority of us will ever truly make use of. Suspension is the area I'd spend my money on first! Best of luck
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top