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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I decided to do my own at 355 miles and all I have to say to everyone running in their new bikes is to do it! At this mileage the drain plug magnet had quite a bit of fine filings in it (a black sludge). The filter is all black and the filter cap had some sludge on it as well. Took me two hours with receipts and pictures as proof. I will take it in on the next one as there are more complex bits to take care of then. While I rather give the business to the business to help keep them in business, this was a chance to get to know my bike better and have a little spending cash for that next Suomy helmet that I want, hehe. BTW even the oil filter cover facing the ground is a machined work of art with the MV logo (even though no one ever sees the part), simply beautiful and a pleasure to service.
 

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Same experience here, did mine at 300miles. Was amazed at the black sludge/metal debris on the drain plug and filter. My 990r was not like this
 

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Oi

Hey Fragile, as much respect as I have for you and the time you spend on the forum mate, YOU NEED TO GET OUT AND RIDE THAT FRIGGEN BIKE. :thewife:

Really man, half of that sludge is probably from the engine collapsing in on itself. :naughty:

More serious note though, I've posted this before and few read it, even less believe or understand it. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
We still have blokes show up at track days with brand new bikes, using track time to run their bikes in properly.

Now go do some riding man:conveyer: :f4:

And btw, where's the pictures of all this crap you're seeing. :stickpoke
 

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Thanks Donsy. A really interesting read.
I've never stuck to the manufacturers run in period, but I can't say that I've given it the full berries in the first 20 miles, scary!!!
Luckily I've not yet had a bike that burns excessive oil.
My little brain is trying to compute this info.

Dave.
 

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Thanks Donsy. A really interesting read.
I've never stuck to the manufacturers run in period, but I can't say that I've given it the full berries in the first 20 miles, scary!!!
Luckily I've not yet had a bike that burns excessive oil.
My little brain is trying to compute this info.

Dave.

You have to remember that every one of these motors have been run to the max at the factory Dave. It's a well documented fact, straight from the factory, right here on the forum as well as the Discovery Channel :conveyer:.
 

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You have to remember that every one of these motors have been run to the max at the factory Dave. It's a well documented fact, straight from the factory, right here on the forum as well as the Discovery Channel :conveyer:.

May I suggest this clip:
http://youtu.be/bRh5YWbdzbE :yo:
 

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I`ve seen them being run flat out at the factory with my own eyes (who elses would I be using), Twice for each engine, once on the engine dyno, then again when fitted to the bike through all gears.
 

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Yes , but with little charge and few seconds. This helps to purge air bubbles too.
 

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I took my bike to the track a few times to assist in the break in. I'm about due for first service now. After I do my first service (to make sure I have the latest updates etc etc) I'm doing all my own work from then on out.
 

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Just did the 600mi change and also had light filings on the magnetic drain plug and sludge inside the filter cover. Oil was pretty dark, so like Fragile says "do it"!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yup, mine looked like that at 330 miles. I may change again at 600 or 1000 miles. As far as updates, I am current as of early 2014. If bike runs fine, I don't see a need to update unless there are improvements beyond what I already have.
 

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Digging around after a hiatus from the site...

Anyway spotted this thread and Donsey's post recommending the "give her hell" break in method. This is total BS.

1) try it with a new two stroke engine and you'll seize it in less than 2min.
2) some how the "give her hell" piston on the right has nearly zero carbon ABOVE the rings! Apparently this engine doesn't produce carbon during combustion. Better put in a patent...
3) there is very little cylinder pressure difference at higher RPM.

But what ever. Many are told their world is no longer the way they believed when firms,my educated. The remainder believe what they want and the Internet only encourages them to believe more BS.

Cheers!


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Digging around after a hiatus from the site...

Anyway spotted this thread and Donsey's post recommending the "give her hell" break in method. This is total BS.

1) try it with a new two stroke engine and you'll seize it in less than 2min.
2) some how the "give her hell" piston on the right has nearly zero carbon ABOVE the rings! Apparently this engine doesn't produce carbon during combustion. Better put in a patent...
3) there is very little cylinder pressure difference at higher RPM.

But what ever. Many are told their world is no longer the way they believed when firms,my educated. The remainder believe what they want and the Internet only encourages them to believe more BS.

Cheers!


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Who even mentioned 2-strokes as applied to these bikes ?

The rest of your grammar makes no sense in any case, you obviously feel you have an ache somewhere, like you said, each to their own.

I speak from what I see at bike shops and at the track all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Conflict resolution is one of my specialties in my day job. Having said that, this is not my day job so I will let that drama progress on its own accord here (besides, it adds excitement to the forum and gets folks engaged :^)). I am almost at 1K miles on my F4RR (sorry Donsy, I'm trying hard to put more miles on) and it ran in nicely according to the directions. Oil consumption is as to be expected since that first oil change. I do personally think that following the directions of varying RPM and engine load is vital to running-in my bike and to not over-rev the engine. I did a lot of compression breaking and moderate acceleration on varying grade terrain for the first 600 miles and keeping it below the recommended RPMs most of the time. While I am no racer, I will probably experiment with this bike to see just how many daily drive miles I can rack up without major failure. I will note that heavy stop and go and idling on one outing resulting in some coolant seepage from a click-R hose clamp location. Coolant made it past the clamps grip, just a bit. That hasn't occurred since as I am now cognizant not to beat her up on group rides in gridlocked city like I did that 90F day. YMMV

BTW I am still ethanol free on the F4RR all the time, since it was new.
 

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Conflict resolution is one of my specialties in my day job. Having said that, this is not my day job so I will let that drama progress on its own accord here (besides, it adds excitement to the forum and gets folks engaged :^)). I am almost at 1K miles on my F4RR (sorry Donsy, I'm trying hard to put more miles on) and it ran in nicely according to the directions. Oil consumption is as to be expected since that first oil change. I do personally think that following the directions of varying RPM and engine load is vital to running-in my bike and to not over-rev the engine. I did a lot of compression breaking and moderate acceleration on varying grade terrain for the first 600 miles and keeping it below the recommended RPMs most of the time. While I am no racer, I will probably experiment with this bike to see just how many daily drive miles I can rack up without major failure. I will note that heavy stop and go and idling on one outing resulting in some coolant seepage from a click-R hose clamp location. Coolant made it past the clamps grip, just a bit. That hasn't occurred since as I am now cognizant not to beat her up on group rides in gridlocked city like I did that 90F day. YMMV

BTW I am still ethanol free on the F4RR all the time, since it was new.

Isn't the beak in (according to manual) something like 3.000km with progressive max Rpm?

My 2 cents would be to ride it only when engine got up to temp.

Side note: I personally believe that PURE ethanol is better for engines that can run it. I normally use only it on my cars, but they are designed to have it.
 

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Hey Fragile, as much respect as I have for you and the time you spend on the forum mate, YOU NEED TO GET OUT AND RIDE THAT FRIGGEN BIKE. :thewife:

Really man, half of that sludge is probably from the engine collapsing in on itself. :naughty:

More serious note though, I've posted this before and few read it, even less believe or understand it. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
We still have blokes show up at track days with brand new bikes, using track time to run their bikes in properly.

Now go do some riding man:conveyer: :f4:

And btw, where's the pictures of all this crap you're seeing. :stickpoke
That is actually how I do it. For my feeling in the mountains would be the best riding in... Alas we don't have one single mountain over here :violin:
 

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wtf?

Keyboard geniuses.........

your MV has been FLOGGED on the DYNO TWICE at the FACTORY

RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT

Fragile........

get your head out of your ass and ridethe POS.......don't try to imagine problems/failures .......

cuntflect resolution is your day job

'08 910R 29,000 Miles and 3 low beams burned out....BFD....... and that's because the MicroTech ECU makes the headlight blink

My MV is the most reliable bike I've ever owned.......PERIOD

and that's after 1,450,000+ miles

I change the oil and filters, adjusted the chain twice and changed a bunch of tires and the rear pads(stock) the fronts (EBC HHs) have about 50% left

you want help with your bike?????? I'm in the South Bay, call me

:popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes Sir, Mr Knurl, i've been looking for a good reason to ride Ms. MV more often and i think its getting near that time to do it regularly. I'll pay u a visit sometime when i want to wrench on her. Thanks for helping me solve my paranoia about breakages :) Looks like the Panigale will stay pristine for a while from here on out.
 
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