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Discussion Starter #1
Hy all,
Over a hundred miles from home on what was already a 500 mile day my dashboard decided to die.
Specifically the Tach, and the LCD display do not work. The sidelight, high beam and turn signal indicators all work. The neutral, kick stand, oil pressure, battery, fuel reserve and rev limiter lights are not working.
The bike starts and runs well, as far as I can tell.
No blown fuses (at least in the fuse box on the right hand side), the connection to the dash is clean, and I reseated it for good measure. The wiring harness doesn't seem to be pinched or corroded anywhere. Haven't checked the ECU connection, as I don't currently have the means to do so myself (no garage/limited tools/time).
Sadly I'm going back to my ridiculous work schedule tonight and wont have time to get much more in depth for another two weeks. My mechanic is also booked solid for the next 3 weeks.
Any thoughts in the mean time?
 

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I'd be inclined to think it's something with the ground line of the plug from the sounds of your problem. If the bike runs fine, but just has no lighting I'd think that all the power may be getting to the unit along with all the sensor connections, but the without the ground it's not powering any of the lighting or LCD screen imho.

Maybe someone else might be able to chime in on where the other end of that ground is. A test might be to find the ground on the connector and test it against the frame for continuity.
 

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Check the plug to the back of the instrument cluster. It has a large rubber grommet surrounding it. Ease the grommet away to reveal the plug. Give it a gentle wiggle (technical phrase!) and try switching her back on. If you dash comes to life great but if it dies again, you either have a lose connection on one of the pins or you might have some oxidisation which maybe resolved with some electrical spray. My dash on my 910R did the same, problem with mines was the latter of these two.

Hope this might help.

Dave
 

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electrical gremlins?

Nhonor;
what color is the back of your SPU (the electrical block on the right side)?

usually a bad SPU is like the bike is possessed.....it does all kinds of crazy things

check CAG's sticky at the top of the page for part numbers:)
 

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Noel, when my bike went to X-Bikes, Chris found an issue with the bike not reving out fully, like it was hitting the red line and cutting the ignition way too early. He swapped the SPU over with one from another bike he had in the shop at the time and the problem went away.

However, when waiting for my own new SPU to come down from Design Corse the dash died and I thought this was just another syptom of the SPU dying even further! When the SPU came down I was pleased that the reving issue went away but a little gutted that the dash still had the same issues. This is when I investigated the connections behind the clocks further.

Nhonour: In all honesty, Noel is a guru on here when it comes to these thngs, so please do follow his advice and check out the link he refers too, it is very informative, but in view of my own experience I would check the wiring first just in case.

Regards

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for all the responses!
Dave,
I've checked the connections on the back of the dash, all of them are clean and all of the wiring seems solid. There is no visible evidence of a short, or any corrosion what so ever. Never the less I have cleaned and reseated the connections for good measure.
Noel,
When I bought my bike there was an issue with the ECU (the previous owner burned out a diode trying to integrate the turn signals, so my left hand signals wouldn't work). As part of the purchase they bought me a new one. I'm not sure if they meant the ECU or the SPU..
I can tell you the SPU's cover has the part number 8A00A9615-V2 which matches the number in CAG's sticky. I can't exactly answer your question as to the color of my SPU's back, as I'm not going to be near the bike for a few days and am not sure how to remove it.
Is the SPU accessable without removing the gas tank? If not I currently have neither the time nor means to remove the gas tank and take a look (I live in New York City and park the bike on the sidewalk). I'll have some time off on Sunday morning, and will try to answer that question.
Reckler,
Sadly even though I'm a certified electrician I haven't replaced the multimeter I lost on a gig 4 years ago... Totally embarrassing.. On sunday I intend to buy a new one and explore this further, thanks to Donsy I've got the workshop manual so finding the ground wire shouldn't be too hard.
Thanks again for all your suggestions!
Nate
 

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Try this: You said the bike runs well. With the bike running, unplug the dash. If the bike shuts off the problem is not with the spu. If I remember correctly, the bike won't start with the dash unplugged. It sounds like the problem is within the dash itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Carl,
The bike runs without the dash plugged in.
I have only tried this with the engine running though, I haven't tried to start the bike with the dash unplugged.
 

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Hmmm. If it starts with the dash unplugged, it may be the SPU. I'm almost certain it shouldn't. The spu is located beside the fuel tank on the right side of the bike. It's the box all the fuses plug into. Using a bright enough light, you may be able to peek between the tank and the back of the spu to determine the color of it.
 

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Yeah, not sure about the Brutes guys, but the F4's run without the dash plugged in.
I would strongly look at those connections, as Dave suggested, and the various earth points on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Took the bike to Ferracci in PA.
Turns out the Dash itself was the problem.
They had one laying around from an F4 parts bike, and voila, My brute magically has 8 miles now..
I'll try to find out what exactly failed when I pick the bike up.
Thanks for your help guys
Nate
 

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I know this is a super-old thread. Just wanted to share an alternate dead dash cause. I had a dead dash situation because something kept blowing the the Speed Sensor fuse. This fuse causes almost everything to die on the dash except backlighting and green low beam. No LCD, no tach, no Neutral light. But the bike will run perfectly fine. The speed sensor wire got damaged against the chain. The wire is tucked into a gap between parts near the chain. When wiggles its way out, the chain eats through the wire insulator and shorts the circuit, blowing the fuse. Note: there is also a Dash/Clock fuse, that disables the LCD and tach, but the indicators such as Neutral will still work. The Speed Sensor fuse disables it all except the low beam indicator.
 

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Thanks for the update to this and the probable mode of failure!
 
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