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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if anyone has a wiring harness for a 2008 Brutale 910R? Can't find one on ebay and the harness they do have for other F4s, prices are all over the place.

Thinking about relocating the ECU to the tail on mine.

Thanks!
 

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I wonder if CAG still has one in his parts supply....but since he became an ammunition supplier he doesn't hang around here much anymore.
I know he still has a bunch of MV parts from his discontinued business of buying and breaking MVs.
You might try sending him a PM.
 

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Just wondering if anyone has a wiring harness for a 2008 Brutale 910R? Can't find one on ebay and the harness they do have for other F4s, prices are all over the place.

Thinking about relocating the ECU to the tail on mine.

Thanks!
If you're u want to relocate the ECU to the tailpiece, then it would be best to get an F4 harness. I have no idea where you'd make it fitt though, and then you'd still have to splice into it the accomodate the SPU.
Why ?
 

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Carl might have one. I'll ask
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Here is my "why" novel Donsy...ha!
I'm using a Microtec M226 (installed at 12,000 miles). It has been a thermal idle-runaway (tuning) nightmare. About 5-10 minutes after start up, if I'm not doing 70 MPH, it start's its' run-away. Starts to get pretty bad on 75F-80F days.

Solution Attempt 1 (Professional Map Tuning):
Right after I got the new ECU installed, took the bike to two different local tuners with dyno's (both guys race) who where unable to properly tune despite having Microtec (for Ducati) experience. The bike is not the same beast it once was. No proper map, no proper idle set point (at 1,700 RPM per tuner two setting it). Tried to re-adjust, but always got too hot too fast.

Solution Attempt 2 (Insulation):
I made a thin metal CU heat shield with a silicon thermally insulating mat (robbed the kitchen!) and air gap between it and engine. That helped a little, killing some of the super extra high idles (2,600+ RPM), delayed the process by ~20 minutes depending how hot the day was, but once hot, stayed hot.

Solution Attempt 3 (Maintenance):
Took bike to very reputable local mechanic as bike had 18,000 miles at this point. Requested a bunch of mileage maintenance, including fuel filter replacement (I provided plus other parts). Was supposed to be two weeks. Seven weeks later, mechanic calls, says bike won't start, says doesn't have time to troubleshoot, asks me if the battery is charged (WTF!). He charges the weak battery, still won't start. Drops bike off at my place. I discovered the fuel line on the fuel filter had come off. I replaced filter and finish the rest of the maintenance. But this did not alter issue (but good to verify these weren't a cause).

Solution Attempt 4 (Add Fans):
Add a fan on one side that pushes air and a second fan opposite that pulls the air from in between engine and ECU. I added a timing control circuit that allows me to turn the fans on when I start up. Then when I shut the bike off, the fans still run for a pre-determined set time before shutting off. This is great if I run into a place for 30 min to an hour so that the engine heat hasn't saturated the ECU. Keeps air moving across ECU when stuck in traffic. Helped tiny amount.

Solution Attempt 5 (Remove Insulation):
Insulation causes a choke point for the air flow. When I went to remove the shield and mat to open gap/increase air flow, I found the ECU itself was hot despite being fairly thermally isolated with a "cool" engine (hmmmm!). Getting a little bit better. Very noticeable difference for frame temp (one side cold, one side hot to touch). This is definitely moving heat.

Solution Attempt 6 (Autotune):
Borrowed an Autotune Kit and started making my own maps, got idle properly adjusted without thermal influence. Between this and the fans, best combo. As long as moving, if idle creeps up a lot, it will come back down a little, but never to proper idle. I purchased my own Autotune Kit but have yet to use it as bike is in garage with that fuel tank fitting/line issue. I've purchased all the replacement parts. The CPC fittings were on a 2-3 week back order. This repair is still about 2 weeks out.

One issue with Autotune Solution, have what looks like decent map now, but mpg dropped from 33/34mpg to 22mpg. Then fuel line bit happened. Can't fully verify as this all happened at same time.

Moving forward....

Possible Solution 7A:
After fuel line fix, little map dial in, done???
BUT with her apart (for the 10th plus time), I don't want to do this wrenching anymore, I just want to ride, so:

Possible Solution 7B:
Purchase computer GPU/CPU cooling system and install. Currently at $600+ US in shopping cart (I'm adding peltiers and water blocks on both sides of ECU and radiator/reservoir/pump under rear wheel-well, voltage regulator and PWM (to limit peltiers' total/constant power draw) under passenger seat (which currently has the M163)). This solution has an ~11 amp current draw!

Possible Solution 7C:
For a little more that the above price, buy a new M226. Maybe this one has a manufacturing bug?

Possible Solution 7D:
Make wiring harness and relocate ECU under passenger seat.

Final Solution:
QUIT.
Put the stock cans back on, but keep TI headers, and put stock ECU back in. Sell M226+M163+TI cans (mabye keep TI cans and adjust trimmer pot on stock ECU?). Lose throttle response, killer M226 features, and idle issue, but get reliability and power back.
 

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?

do this the easy way contact Chris Wells the MicroTec guy get the correct map

for your 910R

My '08 910R 32,500+ mi MicroTec M226, Arrow Thunder no dB Killer

idles ~1,200, fans come on at 86C, absolutely will NOT GO OVER 92C

only complaint..... neutral light glows a bit until in neutral then bright
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I added the diode that shuts off the Neutral Light glow. It works. I recommend it.

I bought mine from him just shy of two years ago. The map he shipped it with was trashed the first day I installed the ECU as I took it to the first tuner to "adjust" that map to my bike. Per my request, they said they would save Chris's map as a backup but didn't. Chris is the one that loaned me an Autotune Kit as this has been a struggle. I'm currently awaiting the original map from him.

There's the Microtec Map that comes on the DVD. I've gone through it and manually mod'd some of the parameters. Have been nose deep in the manual and had a lot of fun with the Autotune. Will try it, and tuning it, when I fix fuel lines.
 

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Wait a minute.....you said "trimmer pot" in the original ECU? That's not a 5SM then.....you have a 2008 Euro2 spec bike? Or an earlier model with 16M ECU?
 

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Wait a minute.....you said "trimmer pot" in the original ECU? That's not a 5SM then.....you have a 2008 Euro2 spec bike? Or an earlier model with 16M ECU?
He's got a M226 Microtec Ed, it has to be a 5SM replacement, I think this guy has gone adrift very badly.
Maybe he should start a NEW thread in the Performance section :thewife:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yes, this should go in the Performance section.

My old, sitting in a box in the closet ecu, is a 5SM. I was told by the manager at the local MV dealer that I could do the trimmer bit. Sounds like not so.

I am curious (and maybe this I will post in the Performance section), there is a vent on the 5SM for reading atmosphere(?). I can't find where I read this, but it was about the Air-Fuel-Ratio.

The M226 is totally sealed (there's a solid plug where there could be a vent). Does it not reference atmosphere?
http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?p=2069738#post2069738
 

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No sensor in either ECU. There is an athmospheric pressure sensor on the bike.
 

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Ok, I moved the thread for you Jim.
It's terrible to hear about the dealings you had with that "tuner".

Have a good look through the Workshop manuals for you bike, it's all in the wiring diagram, the atmospheric sensor on the Brutale is on the airbox.

Just a few things, I feel like you're running all over the place with a problem that is probably very easy to sort out, just ask here and we will try to help.

Firstly, wait for the Map from Chris, I suspect your problem is bigger that just mapping, but probably also configuration.
Save the software you get from Chris, and every time you make a change on a map or configuration, save that set-up as something else, re-name it in other words. That way you original will not go astray.

Make sure you don't have air leaks on the fuel system/throttle bodies of the bike.
PS. RESET that TPS before you do anything else.
 

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The thermal issue/idle runaway is something I am familiar with as it happened to my 910R too.
Solution was to get the throttle bodies set up properly. Now I have a stead(ish!) idle even on a 40C day here in Sydney sat at a red light with both fans on roast me.
 

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Thanks for the PM Jim, I'll keep an eye on your thread to see how you get on.
Remember that resetting that TPS is probably one of the most important things to do before doing anything else on the bike, and check it often.
 
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