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I just got done corring out the tip on my F4S. I know Casoli offers this service, but what I was wondering for the around $600+ they charge, do they also core out the cans as well or just what I did, and that's remove the inner lining / insulation in the tips?

The mod itself wasnt too hard to do, but it does require patience. At idle, you can hear a slighlty louder and more defined exhaust tone. It's no longer muffled. You can hear each and every pulse. At cruisng speeds, you can make out a gentle gurlgle, which was not there in stock form. At wide open throttle, the difference is quite noticable. It's not quite open pipes, and its not quite an aftermarket system. Definately somewhere in the middle. I like it!

It took me roughly two hours from start to finish to do the whole job. You will need a small asortment of drill bits, a drill, a rivet gun and some good quality steel rivets. If anyone wants a step-by-step how to, drop me a line and I'll write it up.
 

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I would be happy to take a clip, but I don't know if the clip would capture the sound right. The difference is subtle, but you know what. If I had another stock F4S side by side, then I'm certain a sound clip would work. You know, hear the stock system first, then listen to the cored out version....
 

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How about a video of you opening up the throttle on the road! Maybe have someone shoot it for you. I'm sure everyone here would love to hear that beautiful sound!
 

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I did the same thing on my first f41000 it was a complete waste of time the difference was nearly none. I took out the centre's as well as the packing material is that what you did? RG3's are the go :naughty:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
rob said:
I did the same thing on my first f41000 it was a complete waste of time the difference was nearly none. I took out the centre's as well as the packing material is that what you did? RG3's are the go :naughty:
I can see how you would think it did nothing, and for the most part, you're probably right - if we're talking about performance. I on the other hand, I did it not for the peak numbers, but rather for a more agressive tone.

The fiberglass packing that was in it, was wrapped around the center "flute" of each tip. I removed it and installed everything back as it came (spring and all). The tips do have a flow-through design from the factory, and the perforated center (flute) lined with the fiberglass packing (just like any exhaust system) helps absorb sound and heat. By removing it, you're not going to get much more flow, but you will get an increase in exhaust note (end pulse note to be exact), which is exactly what I'm getting. The sounds is a little more raw than stock.

All in all, for the 2 or so hours I spent on it, and considering I had all the tools necceassry, I think its a pretty smooth mod.

The RG3's are nice, and they do have a uniqe sound (heard them on a Senna this past weekend at our meet). At idle or low throttle they're hard to tell apart from the stock system, but at wide open throttle, they sound sweet!
 

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Did he also have the RG3 headers? Huge difference at idle or low throttle between my SPR with RG3s and a mate with an Evo 3 with RG3s but no headers.
 

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DucatiGuy said:
I just got done corring out the tip on my F4S. I know Casoli offers this service, but what I was wondering for the around $600+ they charge, do they also core out the cans as well or just what I did, and that's remove the inner lining / insulation in the tips?

The mod itself wasnt too hard to do, but it does require patience. At idle, you can hear a slighlty louder and more defined exhaust tone. It's no longer muffled. You can hear each and every pulse. At cruisng speeds, you can make out a gentle gurlgle, which was not there in stock form. At wide open throttle, the difference is quite noticable. It's not quite open pipes, and its not quite an aftermarket system. Definately somewhere in the middle. I like it!

It took me roughly two hours from start to finish to do the whole job. You will need a small asortment of drill bits, a drill, a rivet gun and some good quality steel rivets. If anyone wants a step-by-step how to, drop me a line and I'll write it up.
I'll show you a picture of the insides and tell you what Casoli actualy do, If you remove the end tips you are left with a exit pipe in the middle of a round blanking piece, If you drill as many large holes as you can around this blanking piece you will by-pass two of the three silencing chambers, you will need to fit a larger piece of perforated pipe in the end tips to leave these new holes uncovered, if you don't the exhaust tips will get that hot they will discolour, first picture is my std damaged silender opened up, second is the "Casoli mod" as you will see he just "gas axe's" this blanking piece away, that way works ok, just looks shite.

You should be able to work out the gas flow inside from the pictures and see what I mean.
 

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here the casoli mod is described:

mikef4uk said:
(...)
The "Casoli" way of modding is dead easy if you study this picture, remove the end cans, cut, drill holes, or simply burn away the pipes and surrounding metal to give a hole about an inch or so across, this will then let the exhaust gas come out after only going through one silencer chamber instead of three, then modify the size of the perforated pipe in the four tail pipes to a similar size as your new exit hole diameter, and you have done the Casoli type mod very cheaply. I believe it makes more power, it WILL need the fueliing altered, It still doesn't sound as nice as pukka RG3's
Here is the thread. The pic is unfortunately not attached anymore. :cross:
 

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Bringing this thread back from the dead...


I bet Mike could answer this for me, but how are the chambers in the exhaust held in? Are they welded to the holey material in the can? or are they just placed in there and held by tension?
 

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Bringing this thread back from the dead...


I bet Mike could answer this for me, but how are the chambers in the exhaust held in? Are they welded to the holey material in the can? or are they just placed in there and held by tension?
I think they're spot-welded in place. It looks to me like the baffles between chambers have places on the edge that match places on the perforated material that would correspond where spot-welds were ground away.
 

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GOOD EYE! I had missed it earlier but I see now that you say something and agree with you. I am going to have to get an extra set of exhaust this looks like fun! I am thinking cutting torch or something of the sorts, grinder, and welding back together....

Leave one chamber for back pressure in the exhaust, have the tips re anodized and put it all back together.
 
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