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Discussion Starter #1
2008 910S euro3, decat retaining lambda sensor, iridium plugs (long before any problems), otherwise OEM.

I had to separate the trellis frame from the engine to use an impact driver on three of the bolts for the cam caps when adjusting the valves. Therefore all of the electrical connections forward of the SPU have been apart. Battery was removed first. I changed the CCT (looked like Donsy's pics minus the cracked housing) and turned the engine over several times by hand after re-assembly.

Now back together it won't start unless I pour a little fuel in the throttle bodies and shuts off immediately after starting. It doesn't die, it shuts off. If I try to restart it without adding fuel it doesn't start and all the dash lights flash on/off while the engine is turning over and stops flashing when the starter stops. Maybe that's normal, never had any trouble starting before.

Not positive but it seems like the fuel pump isn't running as long when the key is turned on as it did before. It will pump fuel out the oem fuel line but not out the extension line used to run the bike with the tank removed. The extra length is about 3 ft. Based on FPR threads, I pulled the #3 plug. It was black but not wet. Probably the amount of fuel I was pouring down the TB's. VDST shows no problem codes and confirms function of coils, injectors and fuel pump.

Possibilities: Electrical connection-which one? Fuel pressure regulator-how to test it? Last and most feared, timing marks on cams and crank could not be lined up perfectly before disassembly. Crank never moved during disassembly so same results after assembly. Possible conflicting input to ECU from cam sensor and crank sensor? But why after and not before disassembly? I could see no signs of wear on the chain, cam sprockets or crank gear but the engine does have 28,000 miles on it.

Valve adjustment was brought on by stalling issues not resolved by first trying everything on the forum (except changing the FPR) related to stalling. 12 of the 16 valves needed adjustment. 8 exhaust, 4 intake.

Input appreciated, Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Problem solved! I left out the fact that I changed the fuel fittings on the fuel pump housing while it was apart. I was also wrong about the fuel flow. It only flowed from the housing without the new fuel connector installed. After comparing the old plastic ones and the new metal ones I noticed the rubber o rings on the new ones looked bigger when looking in the end of them. I removed the o rings from the plastic connectors and put them on the metal connectors. It fired up immediately! What a sweet sound after all the headaches. Can't check on the stalling due to rain but I have a good feeling about it. Idle is smoother and stays closer to 1200rpm than it did before. Pics in my album show the old o ring from the plastic connector on the left, the new one I switched out on the right.
 

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Good news. Where were the metal connectors sourced ? There have been issues with non fuel compatible O rings with connectors from the Far East ( anecdotally).

joe
 

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Problem solved! I left out the fact that I changed the fuel fittings on the fuel pump housing while it was apart. I was also wrong about the fuel flow. It only flowed from the housing without the new fuel connector installed. After comparing the old plastic ones and the new metal ones I noticed the rubber o rings on the new ones looked bigger when looking in the end of them. I removed the o rings from the plastic connectors and put them on the metal connectors. It fired up immediately! What a sweet sound after all the headaches. Can't check on the stalling due to rain but I have a good feeling about it. Idle is smoother and stays closer to 1200rpm than it did before. Pics in my album show the old o ring from the plastic connector on the left, the new one I switched out on the right.
Just a question.What brand are the fuel fittings you used? I have never seen that style of fitting before.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I debated whether to include that info in the post. I paid what I consider to be top dollar ($100) from a site sponsor, Gutsy Performance. I'm not into the internet thing and don't have the patience to search out the best price so I went with those. If they came from the far east that's probably about an eighty percent profit margin. Even worse, one of the o rings on the male connectors split into two pieces upon insertion so I have to remove the o rings from those plastic connectors too. I just used the old fuel lines to test the theory last night. It was a bitch trying to put those o rings on while keeping the spring compressed with only two hands!

When I saw the problem I wondered if I could have saved myself the headache by reading the sticky first but it was water under the bridge at that point. I will see if the issue is mentioned in that thread at some point. As someone who has always replaced bikes before they need any work, this forum has been invaluable and I offer my respect to those of you who offer your wealth of knowledge here. After seven years I still don't see anything out there I would replace my Brutale with. She might be ready for some upgrades though.
 
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