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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK need help ,what are you guys running at idle ,14.2 to 1 or 13.2 to 1,or even 3.5% or whatever you can give me. Need a good idea to get my idle
from hunting ,almost got it but would like some feedback from others.
 

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Old Wing Nut
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I shoot for 3.5 as a general rule of thumb (my cheap EGA is more consistent using CO instead of AFR).
Idle speed is important for hunting, too. Too low gets a lumpy idle no matter CO%

Make sure you are sampling from the bungs in the header pipes. Probing the muffler can give false readings due to fresh air entry during inversion of exhaust wave.

And plug the Second Air system inlets if your bike has it (a marble in the hose from the air box is quick and easy).
 

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having just had simalar problems with hunting reving at 2000rpm wanting to cut out ect first set TPS this is important I did it manualy got information of this site, then set idle then balance throttel bodies also checking CO 3.5% with gas tester it should be alright after that Tps needs to be set with all butterfly valves at zero fully closed then set tps this is the key to set up. Did this on brutaly 910R now pefect .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ed ,I thought 3.5 was about correct,i will go and block the egr valve off again ,i forget about it and pulled the marbles out after the dyno tune. can not seem to get my idle up above 1200 rpm, sitting at 1150 to 1180 rpm,ever since i did my shims only on the exhaust valves something has changed,never had this slight hunting before.fuel trim is currently at -30 running at 14.00 to 1 a/f ,seems to like it there ,but still not right. I am waiting for new coils to arrive then start the process again,

Thanks Raptor I know you can do it manually , I have many threads on this ,you set this bike with vdst software,I have already stuffed one set of throttle bodies by making mistakes LOL.

Cheers Eddy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Fixed,sits nice at 13.38 to 1, that's about 3% Co ,fuel trim is at -30 using vdst software, air bleed valves are out 3 turns and synced, Now here is a new way of balancing RH thottle bodies with Lh throttle bodies.

Now never touch the middle screws Where the throttle cable is attached .
1= take of the trumpets 4 of them
2=just snap the throttle shut
3=grab your caliber gauge and use the end of it ,rest it on lip of the opening going to the throttle blade number 3 cylinder first this might read .090 something like that its just a figure .now go and measure number 1 throttle opening it might be greater or less adjust this using only the outer idle screw ,do not touch the middle idle screw this governs everything.Guess what perfectly aligned throttle bodies.Tps reading should not move, mine is 2.3 degrees if it does then you have gone to fare with the outer idle screw.

hope i said this correctly.
And Ed egr valve now blocked and stable a/f mix at idle really do not know if this was the issue,but will test this theory later and unblock it again to see the effects.I did have it blocked when Dyno tuned.

see picture ,the end moves up and down so you can get a reading.

cheers eddy
 

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Thanks Eddy, had the old erratic idle/stalling issue with my Brutale, fuel at idle was at -5 on the PCV. Adjusted it incrementally to -30, purrs like a kitten now, cheers mate!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey, great **** glad your bike is running better,sometimes i do wonder if this helps other people.Thanks again really appreciate the feed back.

cheers eddy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hunting issue solved,My fault again ,When i did the shims i did not do the timing chain correctly and cams,oops lucky no damage, I counted 25 rivets instead of 24 ,marks on the cam where out, and TDC was out ,have know idea how the valves did not hit.Anyway you can adjust it without taking the Cam holders out again,What a bitch of a job.Must pay more attention next time,But at least now i have learnt TO READ THE BLOODY MANUAL. LOL

CHEERS EDDY
PS:Thanks Jon( Revead) for you help.
 

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Good to hear that did the job Eddy! Long night huh?
I thought you were in the IT game? Standard help desk answer mate. RTFM - read the fking manual! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
WOW .Jon what a difference, i think the previous owner had replaced the chain tensioner ,and i reckon he dropped a tooth ,because this motor sounds Awesome,it has never run this good,Now its only been 4 years running like that,and i have always had trouble getting it correct,Brilliant.
 

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Eddy;
when doing valves lock the crank in place.......it will move

when you remove the cams ALWAYS tie a long wire to the cam chain and pull it forward

I use a Lambda meter not a sniffer......Lambda Meters work in real time sniffers are slower than shit

Idle A/F ranges from 12.7 to stoic (temperature dependent) that's 4.8% to 0.1% CO
it changes from motor to motor too

adjust 1&2 to 3&4 with a narrow tipped feeler gauge usually 0.08mm works best .....test both sides ......the TB are junk hold them up to the light

I have ~5 sets I should know


:popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I know Noel ,they are junk,I also use a Lambada sensor,I was holding my test set of Tb up to a light bulb 2 nights ago ,not good . One thing that worked well was the feeler gauge to set all Tb"s the same,just do not touch the tps side butterflies and only adjust the other 2 , tested this on my new set and was spot on back to the original mark.So This works well

Yeah i stuffed up pretty bad on the timing adventure

cheers eddy
 

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Ah, Eddy, stuffed up come in degrees....

I'd say your were fortunate it was not a costly learning experience.

Plus, now we all benefit.
 
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