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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems we've come across this fault now. Stall the bike and it won't start without finding neutral. I'm gonna try a bleed first? Was wondering if there's any mod for this? Is it possible to fit a microswitch on the clutch lever assembly? Surely the pressure switch is just an on/off switch?
 

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I had this problem when air gets in the system. Bleeding the air bubbles can fix it. If the problem persists, you can try the pressure sensor, that is under the quick shifter. It has a bolt behind that you have to turn counter wise. There is another topic with a lot of pictures on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I need to bleed the clutch anyway as it's hard to get into neutral.

I have been looking at making a modification to eliminate the pressure switch. I take it the pressure switch is just an on/off switch? Also does anyone know if the circuit is made when the pressure is applied? I've taken things apart yet to do any testing.
 

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Seems we've come across this fault now. Stall the bike and it won't start without finding neutral. I'm gonna try a bleed first? Was wondering if there's any mod for this? Is it possible to fit a microswitch on the clutch lever assembly? Surely the pressure switch is just an on/off switch?
My '16 TV had air in the clutch switch from delivery.
Short story; bleeding fixed the problem... this was 2018, it's still ok today.
Some others here had the clutch switch leak. If your bike's switch is not leaking then a good air bleed should work.

Yes: it is just an on/off switch.
And, it's an expensive and I'll say proprietary switch as I could not find one offered for sale other than ebay (used) or an MV parts catalog.
To that end, if this switch ever fails I'm going to replace it with a banjo bolt switch.

The switch is normally "OPEN" (clutch lever released)
and "CLOSED" (with clutch lever pulled in.)

There is a whole thread on this subject.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I've bled the clutch and managed to get at the connector under the tank. With putting a multimeter on I'm getting open circuit with the clutch operated, so the switch is knackered. Bloody typical!
 

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I did a bypass of the switch today and it caused an error after about 4-5km. I think bleeding the system does not help when you have the clutch switch error. The switch is either stuck or kaput.

Mine is the other way around. No error but stalling, can't start in gear, limpy throttle response at standstill and horrible clutch actuation. I'm about 99% sure there's air in my system. The switch does not always close/close far enough.
 

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I did a bypass of the switch today and it caused an error after about 4-5km. I think bleeding the system does not help when you have the clutch switch error. The switch is either stuck or kaput.

Mine is the other way around. No error but stalling, can't start in gear, limpy throttle response at standstill and horrible clutch actuation. I'm about 99% sure there's air in my system. The switch does not always close/close far enough.
Did you try, turning the pressure regulator bolt, that is behind the pressure sensor ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well initial tests are good, works as it should! Will take it for a ride once the rain stops. I've fitted additional connections near the head stock so when the proper switch comes I won't have to strip the bike again.
 

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Serves the same function, but mechanical rather than hydraulic pressure.
Right, but does decreasing or increasing the pressure mean the sensor is less likely to throw a code? Mine does this intermittently but it causes my Q-shifter to not function until its shut off and restarted.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Right, but does decreasing or increasing the pressure mean the sensor is less likely to throw a code? Mine does this intermittently but it causes my Q-shifter to not function until its shut off and restarted.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I suspect the contacts in the pressure switch are intermittently operating. If you intend to adjust it, I'd but a meter on the plug and measure resistance when operating the clutch. For the most part when the bike is in motion the switch is open circuit, it's only when you disengage the clutch the circuit is made. I really think heat is playing a big role with this error....hence the reason for going with a mechanical switch.
 

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I suspect the contacts in the pressure switch are intermittently operating. If you intend to adjust it, I'd but a meter on the plug and measure resistance when operating the clutch. For the most part when the bike is in motion the switch is open circuit, it's only when you disengage the clutch the circuit is made. I really think heat is playing a big role with this error....hence the reason for going with a mechanical switch.
So what you mean is that adjusting it out will make it so it's not turning on due to thermal expansion? Since it gets hot and expands, right?

@Panchomeneguzi that's exactly what mine does. I have to pull over and cycle the key off then on and then it will reset. Is that what the micro switch is for that you all were talking about? The switch cycles the sensor and acts like you turned the bike off and on again?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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