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Discussion Starter #1
Seems we've come across this fault now. Stall the bike and it won't start without finding neutral. I'm gonna try a bleed first? Was wondering if there's any mod for this? Is it possible to fit a microswitch on the clutch lever assembly? Surely the pressure switch is just an on/off switch?
 

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I had this problem when air gets in the system. Bleeding the air bubbles can fix it. If the problem persists, you can try the pressure sensor, that is under the quick shifter. It has a bolt behind that you have to turn counter wise. There is another topic with a lot of pictures on it.
 

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I'm having the same issue, intermittent. I have a feeling the stalling itself is also a symptom.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I need to bleed the clutch anyway as it's hard to get into neutral.

I have been looking at making a modification to eliminate the pressure switch. I take it the pressure switch is just an on/off switch? Also does anyone know if the circuit is made when the pressure is applied? I've taken things apart yet to do any testing.
 

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Seems we've come across this fault now. Stall the bike and it won't start without finding neutral. I'm gonna try a bleed first? Was wondering if there's any mod for this? Is it possible to fit a microswitch on the clutch lever assembly? Surely the pressure switch is just an on/off switch?
My '16 TV had air in the clutch switch from delivery.
Short story; bleeding fixed the problem... this was 2018, it's still ok today.
Some others here had the clutch switch leak. If your bike's switch is not leaking then a good air bleed should work.

Yes: it is just an on/off switch.
And, it's an expensive and I'll say proprietary switch as I could not find one offered for sale other than ebay (used) or an MV parts catalog.
To that end, if this switch ever fails I'm going to replace it with a banjo bolt switch.

The switch is normally "OPEN" (clutch lever released)
and "CLOSED" (with clutch lever pulled in.)

There is a whole thread on this subject.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I've bled the clutch and managed to get at the connector under the tank. With putting a multimeter on I'm getting open circuit with the clutch operated, so the switch is knackered. Bloody typical!
 

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I did a bypass of the switch today and it caused an error after about 4-5km. I think bleeding the system does not help when you have the clutch switch error. The switch is either stuck or kaput.

Mine is the other way around. No error but stalling, can't start in gear, limpy throttle response at standstill and horrible clutch actuation. I'm about 99% sure there's air in my system. The switch does not always close/close far enough.
 

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I did a bypass of the switch today and it caused an error after about 4-5km. I think bleeding the system does not help when you have the clutch switch error. The switch is either stuck or kaput.

Mine is the other way around. No error but stalling, can't start in gear, limpy throttle response at standstill and horrible clutch actuation. I'm about 99% sure there's air in my system. The switch does not always close/close far enough.
Did you try, turning the pressure regulator bolt, that is behind the pressure sensor ?
 
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