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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I haven't been doing so much on my F4RR lately but I guess it's time to service my clutch. I am in Washington State and wondering if my clutch plate and disc would be replaceable with any aftermarket clutch friction plate and disc. Will be opening it up next weekend I think, but I have to know if there is any ebay or online parts I could get them from.Thanks.
 

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Do you need to replace them??? I mean, how many thousands of miles do you have? Is the clutch slipping??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is making a clutter sound when on first gear and second, I will open it to check the integrity of the whole basket, plates, disc etc. If nothing is broken then I'll just overhaul it. I am still nervous of finding anything horrible. I bleeded the clutch fluid, it went away for like 5 miles then came back right away. It is not slipping but just the clutter sound and feel. Oh and it is harder to get into gear now from neutral, it used to be a smooth engagement before. This happened suddenly last week when I was on a traffic stop.
 

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How many miles??? And what kind of oil are you using (can make a huge difference). Some clatter noise is normal...it is the primary gears. Does it get more quiet when you pull in the lever?
At any rate, I doubt you will need plates unless they are slipping.
That said, I do not know of any aftermarket sources. Google search may help

And where in the world are you?? Please add that info to your profile.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I only have 5,000 miles on it but it is was an EPA test bike from MV factory that we used in the US for 2014. So I don't know how old is the clutch basket since it is not a stock bike. It is kind of an assembled bike specifically for emission test. I was using 10W60 as recommended. Even if I pull the lever, it doesn't go away. Sound is there when down shifting and upshifting. Only the 1st and the 2nd gear make the sound. I am in WASHINGTON State, USA.
 

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Ah....there is a long thread on rattle sound in first 2 gears. You may want to go research that one.
If memory serves, the owner went through a great amount of diagnostic inspection...all the way into transmission bearings.
Don't dive in until you read that saga.
I've been to Kennewick...interesting place.
 

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Not all 10w60 oils are created equally....what specific il are you using and does it meet the specs?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I am using Motul... I should just go with specs and get AGIP? I have opened up the clutch a few hours ago. Some of the tabs on the ceramic friction plates are flat and some were detached already. The disc doesn’t have bluing. I have to measure the springs if it is still in specs. The baskets are in perfect condition without notches that would possibly hinder movement. Will just wait til I can find friction plates for replacements.
 

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Motul is fine...sounds like someone was doing drag strip runs !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hehehe I think it was the red lights that took those ceramic tabs out.... not my fault... not my fault 😈 This is my 1st time to open the clutch, are the ceramic tabs on the notched area supposed to be absent every 1/3 of the plate? My springs are 38.84mm, are they in specs?
B3B468F7-E034-4FD7-AA29-8F33208CCAFA.jpeg
 

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Comical......
RC Jr won 3 Wallies (NHRA Drag Racing Championships)
2 on stock clutches....I built the frames, not the motors
When he went to a turbo Busa he went aftermarket clutch
His ProStreet bike had 250 RWHP he won his 3rd Eally with that
Eddie Lawson's Kawasaki made ~178 HP and used a stock clutch

Something else is wrong
 

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Not sure about the missing friction pads, but otherwise those plates look good.....however, appears some heavy notching on the basket and hub where the plate tabs/splines hit. Are those just witness marks or actual dents?
Regardless, none of this is causing rattling sounds in first or second gear.
How is the play between the primary driven gear and basket? Are the dampers shot?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will try to check it tomorrow afternoon after work. I checked my slave cylinder and I could see little oil in it. I think I’ll go with Oberon 32mm clutch slave too. With possible leaking seals, it could also be the reason it came back after a few miles after a complete bleed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not sure about the missing friction pads, but otherwise those plates look good.....however, appears some heavy notching on the basket and hub where the plate tabs/splines hit. Are those just witness marks or actual dents?
Regardless, none of this is causing rattling sounds in first or second gear.
How is the play between the primary driven gear and basket? Are the dampers shot?
There is no play on the clutch basket and primary drive gear. My clutch friction pads looks hard and glazed so will try to get new ones and might as well get new disc and stiffer springs and upgraded slave(Oberon) you had a long discussion with this with Rulook years back. Will try this first before a full mount surgery like what Rulook did.
 
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