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oh how i wish folks would put their bike model and year in their signature line:ahhh::ahhh::ahhh:.....or at least somewhere in the thread.....:banghead::banghead::banghead:
it is not an scs. I understand where it could be confusing. It is now listed in all the places you asked.

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Discussion Starter #22
Omg....I don't see a place to add ot to my signature. I added it to my profile biography. There is no option when I try to edit my profile for signature. What does it matter you know what I ride now. Is that enough for you?? Jeeze.

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Here is what the manual says for your clutch:

This is from the B3 engine manual edition 4 which covers your clutch.

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From what I see in the manual, there is no groove in the smooth disc adjacent to the disc with the tapered end. That wear may be enough to cause things to slip; that would depend on the total stack height change having an effect on spring pressure. The total stack height is NOT listed for the standard clutch.
 

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ON the subject of "Close Enough":

Perhaps I should have looked up a 2007 MV Agusta F4 clutch:wtf:....I mean, it's a clutch :naughty:...close enough :smoking:.

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It is interesting to me that there have been a few threads recently about clutch slippage.
 

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The tapered ring is a "spring", also called a belleville washer. It's an anti-judder device to smooth engagement. Many bikes have similar arrangements.

There is a mating "spring seat" that it works against.
They usually sit inside a friction plate that has a larger ID then the other friction plates..... Indeed, this is exactly what the diagrams Chuck posted show.

The grooving of an adjacent metal plate should not cause slipping. Glazing or hardening of the friction material could. So could weakened springs.

Pre-loading your springs with a washer could work, but may also result in coil bind and resultant additional problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thank you both for your reply. I went through and measured each friction plate. They were all within range and dare I say like new!? So I added a 2mm washer under the Allen bolt. There is plenty of free play when the clutch is held in even at half squeeze of the clutch lever.

The springs ranged from mid 39mm to mid 40mm. Well within range so I'll see if the shim works.


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Discussion Starter #28
It worked! 2mm shim under the Allen head bolts. I guess the springs that mv gives it from the factory are JUST bearly good enough or just my bike got some weaker springs who knows.

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Clutch Issue (or not)

I find it very hard to describe exactly what is happening, so please bear with me (this could get long).

The Bike: 2012 F3 Serie ORO with under 6,000Km's

Background

Arriving at work a month or so ago and the the bike kind of 'shuddered' as I was pulling into the bike park area (slightly up hill, so kinda have to ride the clutch a little to get it parked).

Ride the bike home, no issues - all good.

Next day same thing as I pull into the bike park area!

Going home, similar issue filtering through traffic up to the stop lights.

Get home even worse to the point where my partner asks "what was that noise coming from your bike!!"

I even note that when stationary, in gear, with the clutch pulled in; the clutch seems to drag and the bike wants to move forward. But not constant drag - in a kind of wave; drag, no drag, drag, no drag ...

Bike gets parked up and I come to here for some research. See the issues regards clutch baskets 'falling to bits' on early model F3's.

Emails to MV Augusta Italy - "am I still covered for an out of warranty 2012 bike?" Yes, all good, bike gets booked for a replacement clutch basket.

A side note here; very pleased with the responsiveness from MV Italy. Quick replies to my emails and of course happy that the clutch and labor will all be covered!!

Back to the story.

Yesterday the clutch basket was replaced. The shop found no issues with the old basket and could see no other clutch issues (plates all look good etc - remember, this bike has not even done 6,000K).

However ... when I get home form the shop (seems once the bike is warmed up) same 'shuddering' issue.

I was at least feeling comfortable about riding the bike now (knowing there weren't pieces of clutch basket 'floating' around the engine) so rode it into work today. Same issue pulling into work (and the 'drag' was worse than ever).

At lunch time I visited the shop again to discuss.

I took the long way there to ensure the bike was warm, I had the issue (shudder and drag) occur at a set of traffic lights, but, as is typical, it wouldn't do it while with the mechanic.

So to summarize ...

* two associated issues
1. shuddering at low speed when clutching in in first gear
2. drag when the clutch is pulled in
* the problem is intermittent
* appears worse when bike is warm
* appears to be a clutch issue (the shudder might suggest gearbox, but not the drag?)
* even after a new clutch basket (and service) the exact same symptoms persisted

Any thoughts or ideas?

I see this comment from @Tasty F3

I had a similar issue and it was the clutch cable binding, disconnect the clutch cable at the engine and check to make sure the cable moves in and out freely
Could it be as simple as the clutch cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Mv f3 - I wonder if the disks are warped slightly. They cant even have .1 of run out or distortion. They need to be completely flat. That would explain the shuddering because its grabbing and letting go due to it being warped. That's all I can think of. Warped disks could be caused by one or more springs clamping harder and then another is looser. Check your resting spring height and se if its within spec like I did in the pictures above. Then check your disks for warping with a TRUE flat edge.

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@MV F3

Yes, it could be your cable, although I would think the dealer would have noted that.
Yes, as Figifister noted, could be warped plates.

The dragging is your clue here. And increased troubles as heat rises.
I will assume the dealer did not replace anything but the basket and oil/gasket during your service.

Check that your cable is smooth and undamaged (give it some lubrication), Check that the cable and lifter (throw-out) are adjusted correctly.
All that is good? Replace the plates.
 

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Did they replace the Cush drive rubbers in the clutch when they replaced the hub? They are meant to under the recall but I suggest you confirm.

How are your Cush drive rubbers on the rear wheel hub ?

I suspect you might have two simultaneous problems , badly adjusted clutch causing the dragging and worn rear hub Cush drive causing the jarring. If it is a 2012 model then I’ll bet your Cush drive is due for replacement.

My F3 is a 2012 and didn’t make it past 6000km on the Cush drive. I highly suggest regressing your rear hub bearings also.

I could be wrong but that’s what I suspect .


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I was just reading a post my @Munks in the "2008 F4 1078 312RR Running Rough" thread where he said;

"I love the way people help on this forum and have looked at many similar threads to this but have developed a real dislike for people not finishing the thread with a result, which therefore makes that thread near useless"

and I started to feel quite guilty about never responding back to this thread.

Bottom line is the bikes was near on impossible to ride so I parked it up - so no resolution from me until the bike goes back to the Shop.

... and i haven't taken it back to the shop yet because there are a few other parts on order (rear brake sensor etc) and i just figured I would take it back once to get it all sorted.

and to answer this;

Did they replace the Cush drive rubbers in the clutch when they replaced the hub? They are meant to under the recall but I suggest you confirm.

How are your Cush drive rubbers on the rear wheel hub ?

I suspect you might have two simultaneous problems , badly adjusted clutch causing the dragging and worn rear hub Cush drive causing the jarring. If it is a 2012 model then I’ll bet your Cush drive is due for replacement.

My F3 is a 2012 and didn’t make it past 6000km on the Cush drive. I highly suggest regressing your rear hub bearings also.

I could be wrong but that’s what I suspect .
I think you are right; two issues - the cush drive was not replaced so I will get that done when the bike goes back.

Ahh, there we go, a clear conscience for now,

Watch this space ...
 

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Just realised it was 4 months ago I posted the issue - time to chase up if the parts are in yet!
 

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I do not service this bike and the clutch (basket) was changed by 'the shop' under warranty (so let's hope they used the right oil :))

The issue was the same after the basket replacement and the drag has simply gotten worse on the few KM's I have done since (to the point where it is unrideable).

To add to the dramas, the local shop could not/cannot get the parts, so I have said I will source them myself - I have reached out to the State MV Distributor (via MV Australia) - nearly 2 weeks in and no confirmation of availability or cost (yet).

Almost at the point of "does anyone want to buy a low kilometer F3 Oro - it doesn't actually work, but my god it does look pretty!"
 

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Does it have a slipper fitted or 100% stock?

2. Does it have enough free play on the clutch ? Wont necessarily cause the problem, but it will contribute to heat and that might exacerbate it.
 

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100% stock - I am thinking of biting the bullet and going full slipper replacement - or even go 101% and blipper upgrade for down shift as well (cause I was only joking about selling it! :) )

A new clutch will remove any issues that may be related to warping etc as raised by @Figifister above.

Regards free play; there is plenty. I have also played with adjusting the cable cable as far as it will go and it makes little to no difference - it is like the cable is made of jelly rubber. The clutch moves plenty, but acts like it hasn't disengaged the clutch enough at all!
 
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