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I have a video of it but cant work out how to get it on here, however Im sure you can guess what I mean.

Ignition on and I get a rapid clicking noise for 5 sec then fine and I can start and bike runs fine. It has 2700 miles on clock and a 2011 Brutale 920.

Never used to do this and just started.

Its not the Starter relay as many say as bike starts well first time on the button.

UPDATE - Its this black box left hand side noise is coming from and its vibrating, what is it?

[IMG]http://s47.photobucket.com/user/Bikerzz/media/MV.jpg.html[/IMG][IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f159/Bikerzz/MV.jpg[/IMG]

Sheldon
 

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I have a video of it but cant work out how to get it on here, however Im sure you can guess what I mean.

Ignition on and I get a rapid clicking noise for 5 sec then fine and I can start and bike runs fine. It has 2700 miles on clock and a 2011 Brutale 920.

Never used to do this and just started.

Its not the Starter relay as many say as bike starts well first time on the button.

UPDATE - Its this black box left hand side noise is coming from and its vibrating, what is it?



Sheldon
Ok, you need to post Maintenence issues in the appropriate section mate, you also need to have a look at the workshop manuals and parts lists, this will help you identify the part/relay which is causing this system.
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I have a video of it but cant work out how to get it on here, however Im sure you can guess what I mean.

Ignition on and I get a rapid clicking noise for 5 sec then fine and I can start and bike runs fine. It has 2700 miles on clock and a 2011 Brutale 920.

Never used to do this and just started.

Its not the Starter relay as many say as bike starts well first time on the button.

UPDATE - Its this black box left hand side noise is coming from and its vibrating, what is it?



Sheldon

Sheldon..Pop round if you're stuck . I know the relay and I should have one here.

joe 07875 299281 :smoking:
 

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It is the exup valve servo, you probably need to get a replacement, try lubricating the wires that come out of this box and goes to the mid section of the exhaust pipe.
 

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It is the exup valve servo, you probably need to get a replacement, try lubricating the wires that come out of this box and goes to the mid section of the exhaust pipe.

aha..Is the Exup valve servo in the top left position the op has indicated ?

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Joe

Thank you!

Sorry I not been in touch had house broken into 2 weeks ago and the Golf R was stolen (to order) and getting the MV to a mate garage safe was a priority and not looked at since. I will be in touch soon. Thank you (Your always good to me)

Cheers guys Il read those when I get 5 min (Dealing with insurance companies is SOOOOO much fun)

Sheldon
 

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Sheldon,

The part you are having troubles with is: 8000B2126 VALVE, MUFFLER ACTUATOR. It should cost around 300 Euros before tax. I would recommend you to fix the part and the underlying problem for much cheaper. I will upload the pictures I have on this problem, if I can. The problem is, the couple of wires that run from the actuator to the exhaust. 8000B4114 and 8000B4109 named CABLE, CLOSING, ACTUATOR VALVE and CABLE, OPENING, ACTUATOR VALVE respectively. They are about 30 euros a piece. These get increased friction forces if you live in a high humidity area, and if the lower shied in the exhaust is not enough to protect this moving part system from the elements. The system is very simple, it is a servo setup, where the final gear is connected to a helical gear, and the position sensor, but is made out of plastic.

To fix this, there is an easy way that takes more time, and a difficult but fast way.

Easy way,

1) get the seat out,
2) unbolt the tank,
3) undo the screws holding ignition key plate. Don't loose the spacers!
4) Remove the gas hosing, and overflow hose.
5) Remove the box from the chassis, keeping the back plate on the box! Mind the wire loom!

Fast way,

1a) Undo 3 8mm bolts holding the actuator in place,
2a) Undo wire loom
3a) twist the box under the chassis to access it under the chassis

Either way:

6) Disassemble the Phillips screws from the box to take a look at the plastic final gear. The final gear is the one directly connected to the metal piece that holds the two cables in place!
7)If it is not damaged (unlikely if the ticking sound is present and persistent), reassemble the box, loosen the wires and apply generous amounts of lubrication into the cables. Once you lubricate the top end, it makes sense to lubricate the bottom end as well. This will be easy if you leave the cables out of the box. However, this bottom end is a fiddle to get loose. Always assemble the bottom end first as the ergonomics of the job is terrible if you don't have a workbench.
8) If the piece is damaged, have a cnc shop machine you a replacement final gear, and reassemble after lubricating the wires.

I have one servo that needs refurbishment and the cables that are already refurbished. If you want these parts, I can give you a deal on them, just PM me.

I hope you have an easy time getting your money from insurers, and that you will excuse my English skills.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you soo much. I really need to get her back in my garage and strip the box out and see. As this is just the buttery fly value to try and give low down torque, cant I just remove it and disconnect the wires?
 
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