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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know a good and affordable service to:

1. remove my B3 800 tank (i can remove tail plastics myself);
2. put a nice thick layer of glossy clear coat, fully transparent, to the tank and tail plastics
3. put back my tank to its place

Any idea how much money we're talking about (I come from cheap european country, and have no idea are we talking hundred or two, or a thousand) ?

thanks.

Milan
 

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A good auto body and paint shop is your best bet....look for one that services the high end cars in your area. No idea of cost, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Right. Thanks for your replies guys.
It makes me sad to see that cheap finish with no clear coat on B3. I mean, MV has just put stickers on tank and left it unprotected. It kind a looks like someone put some after market stickers on :(
 

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You can remove the tank yourself, it's an easy job ;)

You've not mentioned what colour your bike is, but if it's the red/white one then be aware to do the job properly the panels/tank will need the surface preparing before the clear coat goes on as the surface is already a high gloss, so it need a key for the clear coat to attach, this will require the stickers being removed so you'll have to buy new ones and that will run you at around £100 from MV for new ones!!!!

If yours is the Matt silver one then the clear coat can go straight on but you'll obviously loose the Matt look and if yours is the ruby red one then why are you asking the question because for reasons know only to MV they decided to clear coat over the stickers on this colour option?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is a red ruby one, but without the clear coat. I got extra MV stickers packaged with the manual. However, only logo's and not the 800 Brutale sticker...
Thanks for advice that I need to be careful with coat application.

M


You can remove the tank yourself, it's an easy job ;)

You've not mentioned what colour your bike is, but if it's the red/white one then be aware to do the job properly the panels/tank will need the surface preparing before the clear coat goes on as the surface is already a high gloss, so it need a key for the clear coat to attach, this will require the stickers being removed so you'll have to buy new ones and that will run you at around £100 from MV for new ones!!!!

If yours is the Matt silver one then the clear coat can go straight on but you'll obviously loose the Matt look and if yours is the ruby red one then why are you asking the question because for reasons know only to MV they decided to clear coat over the stickers on this colour option?
 

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You do not need to remove decals already on the bike unless they are damaged or peeling off. Any good paint shop should know how to properly prep the surface for whichever clear finish you wish to have applied. There will be matte, satin, and gloss to choose from.

If you remove all the parts yourself, they are in good shape, and well cleaned before getting them to the painter; then cost will be minimal. Chances are the materials will cost more than the actual labor. Make sure they use a good quality clear the first time, or you'll be kicking yourself a few months down the road. Don't know which paints they use in Europe so sorry i can't help you in that regard.

If being done here in the south eastern parts of the states it would run about 200-400 dollars for a complete job. Something to make sure you bring up before work starts is to make sure the painter is aware if you want the gloss finish wet sanded and to how smooth you want it. That is likely going to be the largest part of the labor as it can be time consuming even with proper tools. Most will want to wet sand and buff the panels on the bike because flimsy plastic pieces being held in ones hands makes for some hard and tricky work. If mounted on the bike its much easier to do a better job and not burn through the brand new clear coat with a buffer.
I'd suggest removing all panels and tank from the bike to be painted then bring the bike in later to mount up the panels for the finishing work. Either wrap the bike in shrink wrap before putting on the panels(make sure the bike has had time to cool down), or plan on having to go over it with a fine tooth comb to clean out all the nooks and crannies of sanding/buffing debri. If going with a matte or satin finish then wet sanding and buffing is not required.

Also, make sure you know for certain how many coats the painter will be laying down on the panels. You folks can discuss this before hand, but make sure you both are on the same page. If you don't discuss this a painter can try to cut some corners by laying fewer/thinner coats to use less material which would be to either save costs to give you a low bid, or might be trying to make a bit of extra coin. You'll want at least 3-5 coats on it. The first will be a light coat(dusting), the next 2 should be slightly heavier, then the following coats can be heavy. How many coats of clear is mainly important for how long the glossy top coat stays glossy and how much at can be smoothed/sanded/buffed before its back down to the original paint. If going matte or stain you should be fine with a good 2-3 coats. If you want a really deep look then you'll want the painter to sand between coats from the 2nd or 3rd top coat layer until the last top coat/layer. However, this is really labor intensive and will run the cost of the job waaaay up. Plus you'll need to have the bike at the shop so they can mount/dismount the bodywork over and over again. This is probably much more than you'll need, but at least you have some info. to fall back on should one need it.



Edit: For the tank....you'll want to leave the pump in and remove the gas cap as well as drain the fuel. Leave tank in a well ventilated area to vent fumes for a couple days. Running a nearby helps a lot. If it were my bike i'd ask the painter to throw a couple coats of clear on the bottom of the tank as well. No need for sanding or buffing, but you'll want some top coat on the underside of the tank. They will be able to tap off the area around the fuel pump base so just leave it where it is. Its fine if they don't get the clear right up the very edge of the fuel pump base. The idea is to simply cover the majority of the underside.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Varium, thanks a lot. There is much more to your answer than I was hoping to get. At least, being as illiterate in any hand crafts as I am, now I have some munition to shoot before the job gets started.
 

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Not sure I agree with Varium there about leaving the stickers on but a paint shop will confirm when you take it to them.

The surface needs to be lightly sanded before the lacquer is applied as it does between coats, like Varium says so how a paint shop is supposed to sand the surface up to the edge of but without going over the stickers and damaging the edges of them is going to be difficult, take a long time and be costly? Also how are you supposed to sand between the double stripes sticker?

I thought it was just the red and white bikes that didn't have clear coat over the stickers, I'm sure all the others I've seen including the ruby red/silver bikes have had their stickers lacquered over? Obviously it's a random then as to who gets lacquered stickers and who doesn't in which case if you can prove the mistake then it should be a warranty issue to take up with MV shouldn't it?

My bike came with some coloured stickers in the welcome package but are they the same size? My bike has a black only sticker on mine and it's larger than the coloured ones in the box?
 

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So my next question then is there anyone else out there with the red/white Brutale 800 who's tank had the stickers lacquered over when they bought it?
 

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Ackers, a spray on adhesion promoter does a wonderful job on hard to reach areas. There are may ways to do this without removing the stickers. The trick is to find a GOOD painter.
 

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My bike came with some coloured stickers in the welcome package but are they the same size? My bike has a black only sticker on mine and it's larger than the coloured ones in the box?
My tank stickers are the same colours as the ones in the welcome package. They are slightly smaller, but the difference isn't great - I doubt anyone would notice.
 

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Ackers, a spray on adhesion promoter does a wonderful job on hard to reach areas. There are may ways to do this without removing the stickers. The trick is to find a GOOD painter.
But wouldn't a GOOD painter want to do the job properly in the manor it should have been done in the first place, not cut corners and save time and effort by leaving the stickers on and spray over an adhesive? ;)

I'm only relaying the advice my brother-in-law gave me, he owns a body shop and car restoration business. Its a blessing and a curse as I now spot dodgy paint jobs all the time that i'd never have noticed before. In fact MV's colour matching isn't great if I'm honest, but it is funny when you go into a car dealership showroom and the sales guy does his best pitch on a brand new motor and I tell him I wouldn't buy that one because its had a bonnet and front quarter respray :laughing:
 

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And guys the stickers You got with Your manual are stickers.
The things sticking to Your tank are decals and much thinner than stickers.
You can easily order all the original decals from Your dealer.
Or You can go to our site sponsors as Startwin and order there.
At the later You will find the prices for the decals to.
 

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Somebody need my expert opinion lol.

Yes i have had my tank clearcoated by spiros good friend jimmy. He was the only approved mv agusta painter in sydney. He cleared over my tank on the CC to protect the signatures on it. Perfect job. Reccomend him highly


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I didnt clearcoat it because there was no clear on it. I clearcoated it cause the signatures had been signed ontop of the original clear. So i cleared over them.

If my tabk wasnt cleared i would clear it straight away regardless of how many ppl did or didnt.


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