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Can you confirm for those who have not yet purchased a rear socket that the fit on the MV wheel nut is positive on this one without grinding? The question will probably come up at some point anyway :)
 

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Can you fit it without..... :stickpoke

Why does ebay sellers say 55.5mm? Is it an oddball size. Please save me from the Crescent Wrench :shocker:
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
JamesC said:
Can you confirm for those who have not yet purchased a rear socket that the fit on the MV wheel nut is positive on this one without grinding? The question will probably come up at some point anyway :)
Yes.. it fit VERY snugly on there, no worries at all. If there was any doubt I planned on lining the nut w/ electrical tape, but in this case it's not necessary.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Steptoe said:
Can you fit it without..... :stickpoke

Why does ebay sellers say 55.5mm? Is it an oddball size. Please save me from the Crescent Wrench :shocker:
55.5mm? I don't know.. the 55mm 12pt I bought fits perfectly! :later:
 

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I bought a 55mm Sidchrome Socket, which is a reasonable brand. Availability above 32mm is pretty limited in my area.

NOTE: Check the points of the socket are not burred. Sadly mine was and I didn't notice before using it. This put little scratches through the anodising on the nut :cussing: BUGGER!

In hindsight, I'd go for the custom socket (ebay probably). Assuming this would avoid the scratches.
 

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Can't understand why you guys insist on trying to save a few £ or $ on these cheapo sockets. :rolleyes:
 

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John,

Agreed.....buy the bloody real thing...no scratches....no slip...no guess work!

I mean we spend A$35,000 on a bike to stuff the rear nut up with a $10 socket.....one meal out Vs the proper tool.

i don't like how much it cost, but small price to pay in my view.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
agusta01 said:
John,

Agreed.....buy the bloody real thing...no scratches....no slip...no guess work!

I mean we spend A$35,000 on a bike to stuff the rear nut up with a $10 socket.....one meal out Vs the proper tool.

i don't like how much it cost, but small price to pay in my view.
Ducati charges $18 for a $3 tube of ThreeBond....No thanks on buying OEM in many cases. When it comes to the socket, $55 vs $20 for something I'll use once/year, I'll take the $20. And I've mentioned this before, put a layer of electrical tape around the nut, no change of hacking up the surface.
 

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I guess we will have to agree to disagree on this one rearview. I like saving money too and I don't like having my trousers taken down by paying OEM prices so I kind of agree with where you are coming from but........ well I've said enough already :blah:
 

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You may note that the "55 mm" rear nut is tapered. The 55 mm socket pictured in the link is not. Best advice I can give you is buy a purpose designed CNC machined, with tapering, socket.
Please note that my advice is worth what you pay for it and I'm perfectly O.K. with your decision to ignore it.
 

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Can't understand why you guys insist on trying to save a few £ or $ on these cheapo sockets. :rolleyes:
John,

Agreed.....buy the bloody real thing...no scratches....no slip...no guess work!

I mean we spend A$35,000 on a bike to stuff the rear nut up with a $10 socket.....one meal out Vs the proper tool.

i don't like how much it cost, but small price to pay in my view.
You may note that the "55 mm" rear nut is tapered. The 55 mm socket pictured in the link is not. Best advice I can give you is buy a purpose designed CNC machined, with tapering, socket.
Listen to these guys ^^^!
the correctly CNCed socket, with the torque values and a warning about the left hand threads machined into it, is on line for $40

nothing like the right tool for the job at hand

Noel-theknurl
 

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You may note that the "55 mm" rear nut is tapered. The 55 mm socket pictured in the link is not. Best advice I can give you is buy a purpose designed CNC machined, with tapering, socket.
Please note that my advice is worth what you pay for it and I'm perfectly O.K. with your decision to ignore it.
+1

the socket pictured is not the right tool, you will often slip off the nut.
The best ones imho are those with an inner cylindric part which goes into the axle , this avoids to slip off .
 
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