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Discussion Starter #1
This weekend I'm putting in a BMC filter and a set of Denso IU27 Iridiums that I bought for my ZX-7R before it was stolen.

I've got a new set of airbox wellnuts, and I've read up on how to properly remove the fuel line fittings without cracking them when removing the tank.

Is there anything else I should do while I have the airbox and tank off?

Thanks!
 

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Check those Denso's. As we've said repeatedly the engine designer cautions against their use but they ARE used in Italy by some owners. If you insist on using them make sure they have the SAE terminal nuts threaded on. See the faq for spark plug for details if you don't already know them.

If you were going to flush coolant with same or other this would be a good time.
Also a good time to clean up the upper part of the engine just below the cam cover of the grime that accumulates there.
Check the rubberband ties for cracking and replace as needed
Check the breather hose to airbox for cracking
Clean up rear of engine under the tank between swingarm and crankcase..also inner frame plates if you are so inclined.
 

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psperl said:
This weekend I'm putting in a BMC filter and a set of Denso IU27 Iridiums that I bought for my ZX-7R before it was stolen.

I've got a new set of airbox wellnuts, and I've read up on how to properly remove the fuel line fittings without cracking them when removing the tank.

Is there anything else I should do while I have the airbox and tank off?

Thanks!
Andrea Goggi did say Denso's do not fit well with the mV's combustion shape, torque them up as well, if they come lose they destory the head :jsm:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I know Andrea Goggi said that, but they are technically better plugs than the NGK equivalents because of the smaller tip, and I don't want to waste $50 bucks.

The italian guys use them as per the FAQ, and emotouk told me they sell them and they work just fine, so I'm going for it.

What's the worst that could happen? Loss of hp? (which would be pretty bad)
 

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Guy's
When I do my plugs, which should be soon I'd like to go iridium myself, but am a little unsure as to which ones to go with for the F4 1000. Maybe someone can clear this up for me, but from what I read at FAQ I believe it's NGK's CR9-EIX plug which is right for the bike. No?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Paul Kelly said:
Guy's
When I do my plugs, which should be soon I'd like to go iridium myself, but am a little unsure as to which ones to go with for the F4 1000. Maybe someone can clear this up for me, but from what I read at FAQ I believe it's NGK's CR9-EIX plug which is right for the bike. No?
yes, that's the right spark plug.

http://mvfaq.blogspot.com/2005/09/spark-plug-fitments.html
 

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JamesC said:
Check those Denso's. As we've said repeatedly the engine designer cautions against their use ...
James, Why do they advise against the Iridium plugs? I don't recall hearing about that.

BTW, I had them installed in my F4 at the 600 mile service to try and alleviate the low-speed stalling when coming to a stop. I've now got about 1350 miles, and up until 2 days ago it was fine. Then, Tuesday evening it died on me as I approached a stop light when I pulled the clutch in going from 3rd to 2nd gear. I had the tech do the TPS and CO changes also at the time. Is there anything else that can be done to eliminate the stalling completely? Thanks.

Ciao,
John
 

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Thanks James. I was hoping you could confirm this for me Thanks. On a related note are you familiar with the ngk IRIDIUM spark plugs 3521? Someone's selling them on the bay and is claiming there for the F4. Is it possible that he has a different part number for a similar or same plug? Both are from NGK and both a are iridium.
P.K.
 

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Yeah I thought maybe that would be the case. Thanks and thank you to "psperl". (Sorry psperl, missed you before in the thread).
 

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JamesC said:
He cautions against Denso plugs not iridium. The highly recommended CR9EIX are irigidum NGK.

What eprom is in the bike and what other changes?
I got the RG3 pipes w/ mid-pipe which included the eprom. Bought it all as a package when I got the bike new.
 

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falcopilot said:
I got the RG3 pipes w/ mid-pipe which included the eprom. Bought it all as a package when I got the bike new.

I apologize for the chain of questions but how many miles has it been since the tune? There are many around who are not fans of some of the factory eproms. You may want to consider either getting the tune tools; sync tool and analyzer = ~$320 so you can do the setup yourself OR go wtih a custom mapped PCIII. The Plugs will help that last bit of stalling in most cases once you have a solid tune but as I just posted in another thread the setup does eventually migrate out of tune in my experience.
 

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I had the bike in for 1st service at 600 miles, and it's now around 1350 miles. I may consider the PCIII if it continues to do this.
 

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falcopilot said:
I had the bike in for 1st service at 600 miles, and it's now around 1350 miles. I may consider the PCIII if it continues to do this.
600miles is WAAAY too soon for it to have gone out of shape. It's hard to say what may be going on without seeing the bike. Do you have any plans for coming up to DFW any time soon? Could you just run by the shop and have them stick the sniffer in for a quick analysis without too much time/trouble on their part? How stable is the idle and what RPM?

I agree PCIII can be a great help in many cases but it can not maintain the level of tune your bike maintains. It works by adding or subtracting but can't manipulate the things that change at the bike's base level. Even PCIII users need to keep their regular maint regime for best results.
 

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James
What about the EVR eprom form emoto for my f4-1000? Any good?
Bike is currently pretty damn lean with some of the underline hesitation just off idle.
Paul K.
 

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JamesC said:
I apologize for the chain of questions but how many miles has it been since the tune? There are many around who are not fans of some of the factory eproms. You may want to consider either getting the tune tools; sync tool and analyzer = ~$320 so you can do the setup yourself OR go wtih a custom mapped PCIII. The Plugs will help that last bit of stalling in most cases once you have a solid tune but as I just posted in another thread the setup does eventually migrate out of tune in my experience.
James, As mentioned in an earlier post, I had it tuned at 600 mile service, and it's right at 1,594 miles now. I rode about 160 miles yesterday, and the engine died on 3 occasions when coming to a stop. That's the worst it's been, and it's only 1000 miles since they did the TPS and CO adjustments using the settings found in the FAQ.

What tuning tools are you referring to specifically? I already own a set of mercury sticks for synch'ing throttle bodies. Who makes the analyzer, and where do I find it?

Will the PCIII alleviate the engine stalling problem, or is that more for just improving the overall running performance (i.e. HP & torque curves)?

Thanks for all the tips.
 
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