1st tip: Use the same unit of measurement throughout the whole process. MV lists Metric specs. This will throw you off if you don't pay attention to your feeler guage. Most guages list BOTH SAE and Metric.
2nd tip: Be clean and organized. Someone once said the lazy mechanic works the hardest.
3rd tip: Line up your timing marks! 3rd cylinder needs to be on TDC and both cam marks need to be facing outward. Doing this also aligns all the cam lobes in a such a way to "unload" the valve springs. Now you can unbolt the cradle in a outside to outside and opposite sequence. Use a standard T30 torx drive socket.
4th tip: Use a strong magnet to remove the buckets! They designed the shim to be just small enough to fall into the oil galley return hole...ask me how I know. By the grace of God my magnet was EXACTLY the perfect size to fit down the hole and retrieve the lost shim! Can you believe that!? I thought that I would have to take the oil pan off at least and at worst remove the head depending on where it decided to run off to. Cant tell you how great that feeling is when I heard the "click" of the shim sticking to the magnet! Learn from my mistake.
5th tip: When figuring shim thicknesses shoot for the middle of the range. That way if your new shim is +/- the advertised thickness your still within the range. Also say your old shim has a advertised thickness of 1.95mm but it mic's out to be 1.93mm. Always go with the micrometer measured thickness. But keep in mind MV only has shims in .05mm increments that's why it's important to shoot for the middle of the range because while you may need a 2.07mm shim they only offer 2.05mm and 2.10mm. So you have to make a decision to error on the side of caution and pick the smaller shim...But still stay within the acceptable range. Shoot for the middle! (.20mm for Intake and .25mm for exhaust)
6th tip: Use a valve lash calculator. It's pretty simple and takes the human error out of the equation. You have enough to the think about as it is!
7th tip: Re-installation use a light amount of moly assembly grease on all metal contact surfaces. Place the shims on top of the valve just above the valve then slide the bucket over the top of the valve.
8th tip: Always double check your work and re-verify clearances when you install the camshafts.
9th tip: Do this service when you also need an oil change. It is a good idea to change the oil in case any dirt got into the head and oil when you were working.
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*Update
10th tip: Change out your Hydraulic timing chain tensioner for a manual tensioner! This will accomplish two things. First it will provide constant tension on the chain no matter the RPM (oil pressure). Secondly it will insure your timing does not change or accidentally slip! As you can see in the two videos I have posted the Exhaust cam wants to slip and you can see the chain lifting up. This is exacerbated by the running of the engine and the torque loads (pulses) put on the chain. MOST of the failures you have heard of are from the exhaust valves! MV agrees with this as they are implementing 2018 and newer engines with a manual tensioner. The same manual tensioner, believe it or not, can be found on a Polaris RZR 900/1000. It is dimensionally identical. You can purchase an OEM MV, Polaris, or a quality aftermarket version.
(Some of this information has already been discussed in other parts of the forum and using a Polaris tensioner was not my original idea. I wanted to create a clear concise place for people to know all the helpful tips and I will update this as time goes on.)
Have fun! Ride safe.
Watch "MV Agusta F3 800 / 675 Part 1 and 2 comparing hydrualic tensioner to Manual" on YouTube