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I'm in the process of checking my valve clearances on my 2015 F3 800. I've reached the stage of having the bike at tdc for cylinder number 3 with the notch on the phonic wheel lined up. After I check the clearances for intake and exhaust cylinder 3 do I simply rotate the crank untill another cylinder cams appear in tdc position. Thanks
 

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I'm in the process of checking my valve clearances on my 2015 F3 800. I've reached the stage of having the bike at tdc for cylinder number 3 with the notch on the phonic wheel lined up. After I check the clearances for intake and exhaust cylinder 3 do I simply rotate the crank untill another cylinder cams appear in tdc position. Thanks
Yes.

You can also put a straw into Cylinder 03 (when it's at TDC) and mark a datum on the straw with insulation tape/ permanent marker. Then use that straw as a gauge in cylinder 2 and 1 to confirm TDC on those cylinders.

Careful not to drop anything into the cylinders as you have the spark plugs out during the valve checks.
 

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you guys are awesome, i would have never thought about trying to do the valves clearances by my self but with the pics and info, i think i could get'er done.
 

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480606
I made my own measuring straw. Too long to wait for the official Mv Agusta straw to be delivered!!
 

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im having difficulty with checking valve clearances. When I use increasingly smaller size feeler gauges I cannot pass them cleanly to the other side of the cam lobe. This is an intake and feeler gauge size i exs 0.03 mm
 

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View attachment 480608 im having difficulty with checking valve clearances. When I use increasingly smaller size feeler gauges I cannot pass them cleanly to the other side of the cam lobe. This is an intake and feeler gauge size i exs 0.03 mm
Rotate the crank slightly so that the cams point straight up and check if you can fit it.

I see in the manual they have the cam pointed straight up and in your case at TDC it is not. Maybe the TDC they refer is not the piston but cam position and is mistranslated.


480611


480610
 

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Rotate the crank slightly so that the cams point straight up and check if you can fit it.

I see in the manual they have the cam pointed straight up and in your case at TDC it is not. Maybe the TDC they refer is not the piston but cam position and is mistranslated.


View attachment 480611

View attachment 480610
Thanks I saw this in the engine manual. I was able to pass the feeler gauge with the cam pointing up. First time doing cams hopefully someone who checked their cams will chip in.
 

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Clearances checked now preparing to remove the cams
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have checked valve clearances and now preparing to remove the cams. When I check the line up for TDC the phonic wheel does not line up? The I marks on timing chain and cams seem ok and number 3 cylinder cam lobes are both pointing inwards. Is this unusual or safe to proceed. I included pics of the current alignment of the cams.
 

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Clearances checked now preparing to remove the cams View attachment 480734 View attachment 480735 View attachment 480736 View attachment 480737 have checked valve clearances and now preparing to remove the cams. When I check the line up for TDC the phonic wheel does not line up? The I marks on timing chain and cams seem ok and number 3 cylinder cam lobes are both pointing inwards. Is this unusual or safe to proceed. I included pics of the current alignment of the cams.
I could be wrong, but it looks almost like your timing is off a tooth. Is this the first time the valves have been adjusted in the 24K (I am assuming Km)? Also could be cam chain stretch. Wait for others to confirm as I might be wrong.
 

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I'm going to guess this so called motorcycle mechanic missed the timing. Bike would still run but your performance would not be optimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Its definitly NOT correct. Re-assemble according to the manual and the info/photos you have seen on this site.

This can happen if you don't check your marks AFTER installing the tensioner. It will move. You then need to remove the tensioner and rotate the crank forward or reverse a tooth depending on whitch ever direction your off.

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Its definitly NOT correct. Re-assemble according to the manual and the info/photos you have seen on this site.

This can happen if you don't check your marks AFTER installing the tensioner. It will move. You then need to remove the tensioner and rotate the crank forward or reverse a tooth depending on whitch ever direction your off.

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Thanks for this advice. Will start removing cams in next few days. No hurry now I recently had a fall and # fibula on my left leg, so non weight bearing for about 4 weeks.
 

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Still experiencing issues with the phonic wheel after shim adjustment. I line the phonic wheel to TDC and then align the exhaust and then inlet cam. Put cam cradle on not tightened then tighten the CTC then torque down the cam cradle. When I rotate the crank the phonic wheel always moves out of alignment. Unsure how to fix this. Thanks
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Discussion Starter #35
You must be putting the crank off a tooth if your cams are aligned... When You tension the chain it shouldnt move that much.

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Discussion Starter #36
You can put a wrench on the hex part of your cam move the cam into the perfect position...maybe your cams are slightly rotating when you tighten the girdle?


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Appears I have a faulty hydraulic cam chain tensioner, I have ordered a manual tensioner to replace this. Initially the phonic wheel was slipping, then later the cct was stuck at full extension and timing chain was so tight I was unable to rotate cams.
 
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