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1st tip: Use the same unit of measurement throughout the whole process. MV lists Metric specs. This will throw you off if you don't pay attention to your feeler guage. Most guages list BOTH SAE and Metric.

2nd tip: Be clean and organized. Someone once said the lazy mechanic works the hardest.

3rd tip: Line up your timing marks! 3rd cylinder needs to be on TDC and both cam marks need to be facing outward. Doing this also aligns all the cam lobes in a such a way to "unload" the valve springs. Now you can unbolt the cradle in a outside to outside and opposite sequence. Use a standard T30 torx drive socket.

4th tip: Use a strong magnet to remove the buckets! They designed the shim to be just small enough to fall into the oil galley return hole...ask me how I know. By the grace of God my magnet was EXACTLY the perfect size to fit down the hole and retrieve the lost shim! Can you believe that!? I thought that I would have to take the oil pan off at least and at worst remove the head depending on where it decided to run off to. Cant tell you how great that feeling is when I heard the "click" of the shim sticking to the magnet! Learn from my mistake.

5th tip: When figuring shim thicknesses shoot for the middle of the range. That way if your new shim is +/- the advertised thickness your still within the range. Also say your old shim has a advertised thickness of 1.95mm but it mic's out to be 1.93mm. Always go with the micrometer measured thickness. But keep in mind MV only has shims in .05mm increments that's why it's important to shoot for the middle of the range because while you may need a 2.07mm shim they only offer 2.05mm and 2.10mm. So you have to make a decision to error on the side of caution and pick the smaller shim...But still stay within the acceptable range. Shoot for the middle! (.20mm for Intake and .25mm for exhaust)

6th tip: Use a valve lash calculator. It's pretty simple and takes the human error out of the equation. You have enough to the think about as it is!

7th tip: Re-installation use a light amount of moly assembly grease on all metal contact surfaces. Place the shims on top of the valve just above the valve then slide the bucket over the top of the valve.

8th tip: Always double check your work and re-verify clearances when you install the camshafts.

9th tip: Do this service when you also need an oil change. It is a good idea to change the oil in case any dirt got into the head and oil when you were working.

Have fun! Ride safe.


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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for this, should be doing my 24K check soon for my first time. This will be very helpful.
Glad to be of help! You can definitly do it. Just take your time.

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Discussion Starter #6
It sounds like you are well and truly on top of fettling your bike. How goes your clutch modification, still working fine?
Well I put so many miles on it compared to other people. It's "one" of my daily vehicles...when you own an MV as a daily you need a backup daily too. Yep 2mm shims was what it needed! Holds the power perfectly.

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Hi,
Thanks for this,
I've been trying to check the valve clearance on my F3 675 2014.
I took of the head cover and the alternator cover, the marks on the camshaft and the phonic wheel were almost alined.(I added photos)
1. I can turn the crankshaft only about 15 degrees the it stuck, on both directions.
2. It seems that the 2nd piston is in TDC and not the 3rd according to the manual its supposed to be the 3rd.

How should I continue?
phonic wheel.jpg
exhaust.jpg
intake.jpg
head.jpg
 

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Great post on doing a fiddly job. I would only add that I only remove and replace one valve cup and shim at a time. This avoids mix ups and minimises parts lying around.
 

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Only rotate crank in direction of normal running.....going the other way for very far can engage the starter sprag.
 

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How much force should I use? should it be hard to turn?
You should be able to turn it with a socket and hand ratchet quite easily if the spark plugs are out (in the direction it runs). Remember that your crank rotates in the opposite direction to the wheels (clockwise when viewed from the alternator side).
 

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Thank everyone I managed to turn the crankshaft and measure the valve clearance.
I have 3 intake valve that are out of spec.
The play spec. according to the manual are 0.15-0.24.
The 0.2 filler is not fitting, the 0.15 is clear.
should I replace the shims? its similar in all the 3 valves that are out of spec.
 

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It is a go/no-go measurement.....if the smaller gauge goes in and the larger does not then the valves are in spec.
 
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Thank everyone I managed to turn the crankshaft and measure the valve clearance.
I have 3 intake valve that are out of spec.
The play spec. according to the manual are 0.15-0.24.
The 0.2 filler is not fitting, the 0.15 is clear.
should I replace the shims? its similar in all the 3 valves that are out of spec.
Do tell us what changed to sort your issue out. Why was your 2nd piston at TDC instead of the 3rd?
 

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PTsalas- I confused the 2nd piston whit the 3rd. the 3rd was at TDC.
esqz me- so according to my check I don't need to replace the shims? (just to make sure)
 

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Thank everyone I managed to turn the crankshaft and measure the valve clearance.
I have 3 intake valve that are out of spec.
The play spec. according to the manual are 0.15-0.24.
The 0.2 filler is not fitting, the 0.15 is clear.
should I replace the shims? its similar in all the 3 valves that are out of spec.
Try to get the clearance in the middle of the tolerance range. Measure twice before you install the new shims. Because you then have to put everything back together and measure again. And you don't want to have to go back and take apart. I you are a the either end of the tolerance range, IMHO I would go ahead and get it back to the middle of the range with new shims. If you at .15 lets say that means that that valve has only .01 mm to come out of tolerance. To me it seems Intake valves get tighter and exhaust looser. I may be wrong.
 

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Valves tend to tighten up over time.....they only get loose when carbon deposits prevent the valve face from seating fully.
Shims only come in .05mm increments.....If your measurements are within the range....the smallest gauge goes in easily and largest will not...you are better off leaving them alone.

If you have to force the smallest gauge, or it is very tight, then you should replace the shim for the next smaller size.
If the largest gauge goes in without forcing, or is loose feeling, than replace with next larger shim.

If you are building a true race engine and you want precise clearances for performance reasons, you will need to be able to shave shims to create the size you need.
 
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