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Discussion Starter #1
i have the possiblity to get my hands on a set of
Dymag carbon wheels with 300 km for a reasonable
price.

what is the general opinion: should i immediately jump for
it or are used carbon wheels to dangerous?
 

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You could ask the seller why he wants to part with them. If the reason is suspicious, or you get the feeling that the seller does not sound trustworthy, maybe you should walk away.
If the wheels are off the bike, and preferably also tireless, examine them real close under a very bright light. Any irregularities might become visible. Thick Carbon Fibre doesn't bend, it cracks. Should be recognizable under a very bright light.
If the wheels have tires on them, you could do a downpayment under agreement that you take the wheels home for a few days to see if there is anything wrong with them. Get the tirepressures to the recommended value and see if they hold that pressure. If all turns out well, you pay the remaining sum. If not, return the wheels.
If the seller doesn't agree to those terms, that could be another reason to walk away, unless you are very confident after inspection at the seller's.
 

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300 kM is not very much mileage. Unless they have been subjected to impact and damaged I would think they should be fine. Maybe send a inquiry to the manufacturer about lie time (as in years) before environmental degradation can cause problems.
 

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If you are replacing a set of superlites/ultralites the unsprung-rotating weight advantage is really pretty much nil.....maybe a pound or two at best. It works out to be a heafty price for a meager improvement. If you have the old star wheels that weight 26 lbs it's a major improvement that is realized by anyone when riding. On your 312rr if you are looking for unsprung-rotating weight advantage you need to look at the rotors...5-6 lbs can be saved there.

Just some info for thought.
 

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If you are going to race your bike HansPeter, then make sure the rims are allowed in the calss you want to go race in. Even if you do not race them, you will feel the difference, just know that they hardly ever survive a crash.
 

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^^^ Gotta agree with Mr. Donsy here.

I was rear ended on my Aprilia RSVR last December. He hit me hard, hard enough to break the CF BST rear wheel, but it surprised me that the bike went forward with enough force to break the front BST too when it hit the car in front of me.

I still don't doubt that BST wheels meet Japanese JWL, US DOT, and the tougher German TUV standards. I'm sure an aluminum wheel would've bent on the rear, but I wonder about the front.

Don't misunderstand please. I could absolutely feel the difference with these wheels when I first rolled off with them. First thing I noticed was how much better and harder the bike braked. Then that the bike responded to steering input at 70 mph like it did before at maybe 30 or 40. Last, the accelleration (sp?) was quicker, much quicker by my well tuned butt dyno.

Still, they didn't crash well. To a point, aluminum wheels can be straightened. Carbon fiber, like any FRP doesn't bend, it breaks.
 

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I like the Dymags and think you should grab them before someone else does (me if you don't want them).....not a fan of the BST wheels though
 

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carbon vs Mg wheels?

i've been running Mg wheels on the street since '65 with NO issues

i'd track on carbon but not for the street, the failure mode is ugly

in the mid '70s in the race for the World MX Sidecars Championship
it was either Haller & Haller or Grog & Graber that ran Egli Mg wheels

the Marchesini Mg wheels are on the Brutale now, I stepped up for another set for the F4
 

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I agree...but

If you are replacing a set of superlites/ultralites the unsprung-rotating weight advantage is really pretty much nil.....maybe a pound or two at best. It works out to be a heafty price for a meager improvement. If you have the old star wheels that weight 26 lbs it's a major improvement that is realized by anyone when riding. On your 312rr if you are looking for unsprung-rotating weight advantage you need to look at the rotors...5-6 lbs can be saved there.

Just some info for thought.
It is all about the unsprung weight, but also where the weight is located. On the carbon wheels the outer rim is so much lighter and that is the bit you feel the most. So even with the weight difference not being so big, the outer edge of the carbon wheels weight nothing compared to the Superlights, and that makes the handling difference.
FWIW, I will stick with the Superlights, and get a Ally tank instead for that price.
 

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I have the 7-spoke BST Black Mambas, 20mph posted curves are effortless at 50. LOVE THEM. I was taking curves faster than ever before and felt like I still wasn't even trying.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
finally found some time to inspect the rims.
they actually look in perfect condition. here are
some pictures. what is your opinion for a decent
price for the rims? (tyres not included)




 

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ive had bst's on mine for a little while now.
I bought them used with almost new (but 3 years old) dunlops on them.
First thing i noticed was how much stiffer the whole bike felt. i had to back my rear settings way off as i was bouncing out of the seat on even small bumps.
Unsure if this is due to tyres, rims or a combination of both, but i need to change the tyres as they spin far too easily exiting corners for my liking.
Also the bike does feel a little more nimble but its since i only street ride its probably as much a placebo effect as it is better handling.
 

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I say buy them! I had BST on my MV and they felt so good especially on the track.
 

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Yup

finally found some time to inspect the rims.
they actually look in perfect condition. here are
some pictures. what is your opinion for a decent
price for the rims? (tyres not included)
I say buy them! I had BST on my MV and they felt so good especially on the track.
I agree with Adam, I would buy them if the price was right. I like the look of these.
 
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