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I’d say in your instance with what you’ve described everything will run fine.
I had a nightmare run with this task to the point where I put it all back together ignoring the fact that as I turned the crank that there was some resistance.
It would still turn through but there was a little resistance.
Anyway, on start up she made a hell of a racket before I immediately shut her down.
I thought that I’d destroyed the engine.
Long story short, pulled it back down again and re assembled so that the marks were as best as I could get them, with zero resistance when rotating the crank, and she has run as sweet as ever since.
Thank you that calms me down...a little. I will begin to reassemble the rest. BTW what did you use to re-torque the cam covers? I can't get the torque wrench into some of the places between frame and head.
 

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I just used a small torque wrench and maybe a socket extension. It was a while ago now. I don’t recall any major difficulty accessing the bolts.
 

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Thank you that calms me down...a little. I will begin to reassemble the rest. BTW what did you use to re-torque the cam covers? I can't get the torque wrench into some of the places between frame and head.
James;
They're shoulder bolts.....they turn to a stop.....you don't need a torque wrench

YOU'RE CLAMPING A RUBBER GASKET!!!!!>:)
 

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Woops! Shit,
I was thinking of the cams.
Sorry, yep no need for torque wrench there.
 

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12 Nm = about 9 ft lb or 106 in lb

You need a quarter inch drive torque wrench....

9 ft lbs is not much more than your wrist can twist a screw driver.
 

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Just can't get it between the trellis and the head ! Do you recommend Loctite? I think the manual says yes, but the medium strength. kind
If the manual recommends loc-tite then use it in the correct specification. That will affect the torque application.

For those locations "under the trellis" you can use a "Crow's Foot" adapter on your torque wrench. There are many styles:

1.jpg
 

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If the manual recommends loc-tite then use it in the correct specification. That will affect the torque application.

For those locations "under the trellis" you can use a "Crow's Foot" adapter on your torque wrench. There are many styles:

View attachment 463361
But they are allen head screws.....

If you cannot find a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench and a short 1/4 inch drive allen socket that will fit then calibrate your wrist to 9 foot pounds and do it by hand.......

OR lift the frame away from the engine.......
 

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But they are allen head screws.....
:loser::banghead::banghead::banghead:

In that case, if 12Nm is the spec, I'd use "craftsman tight" It is a hardened steel cap simply being held to a firm mating surface....
 

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...or you could use hex bar stock and the aforementioned Crow's Foot.
 

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Line bored aluminium alloy cap and head with steel dowel pins locating the cap in proper alignment..... "Craftsman Tight" is my calibrated wrist to 7~9 ft lbs..... It really is about the same amount as tightening a screw with a screwdriver.

Over tightening is problematic....some modern motocross 4 stroke engines will seize the cam if the caps are over-tightened..... I would not hesitate to "calibrate" my wrist by hand tightening accessible screws and checking the torque with a wrench...then using that muscle memory to do the ones that are not accessible.

But then...I have over 40 years of practical experience tightening small fasteners on bikes.
 

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The other issue with "overtight" is the effects of heat on expanding metal. That could lead to excessive tension on the bolts and subsequent breakage.

Ed's definition and technique for Craftsman Tight is spot on! You do get a feel for it with practice.
 

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This is funny because that is what I have kind of done, used the torque wrench on the accessible allen screws and then, wrist/grunt calibrated the others to pink knucke with a small allen key. But I forgot to put Loctite when I installed the allen screws. Jeepers!!

Now I am wondering if I can remove One screw put Loctite on it and screw it back in. Then do the same for the other 15?? I think that the other three screws would hold everything in place while I do this. I really, really don't want to take those cam covers/stands off again!!!
 

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Yes, you can certainly do it that way with no ill effect.
 

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Or try these.......
The long ball end isn't available from SnapOn in 1/4" drive you have to buy a replacement tip and change it

Home Depot sells them though:wink2:
 

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Where did the use of LocTite get required on the cam bearing block bolts?????

Page B15 of the Workshop Engine Manual #8A00A3313 doesn't say that, just 12Nm......:wink2:
 

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Where did the use of LocTite get required on the cam bearing block bolts?????
I was wondering the same thing..... don't recall any manufacturer calling for thread lock on cam cap bolts.
 
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