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1/8 inch. 3 km steel will work. Don't get aluminum. They will wear out
 

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Actually, use stainless steel rivets. I have just received slash cutt tips from Motovation and planing to replace tips this weekend. Do a little search here on the forum , I think it was Lee who explained why not to use alluminum rivets . For rivets source ask Noel , he was the one who helped me to find source how ever my Motovation ordered (original Arrow slash cutt tips came with rivets ) . And Yes , for those who wonder They ( slash cutt tips ) will fitt to stock exhaust !!! just edited (here is a phone number for a rivets source) (USA) 632-600-3600
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheers guys, thing is I have bought a set of RG3s and they have the tambo colour, however I want the nice standard tips so I would like to swap them over. I know motovision do slash cuts but I want to keep my original! Hence asking for the rivit size so I can swap them over! Has anyone done the same project? Or am I going to fail?????
 

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I have used aluminum rivets with steel pins and all aluminum rivets before and they have never worn out. There isnt much stress on the rivets once you press the tips in place. But go for aluminum rivets w/steel pins if you want more strength.
 

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I have used aluminum rivets with steel pins and all aluminum rivets before and they have never worn out. There isnt much stress on the rivets once you press the tips in place. But go for aluminum rivets w/steel pins if you want more strength.
You guys ever hear of galvanic corrosion? It happens when disimilar metals are in direct contact, or in supsension, in an electrolite. Think battery, because that is what you create. Now, if you use alluminum rivets in a steel hole and get that wet...you have created a battery. That works because the electrons from one metal transfer to the other metal throught the electrolite (water) and it creates corrosion (oxidation) in the process. The alluminum rivets will corrode in a steel exhuast creating an ugly mess. The seel pin (mandrel) is not a structural part of the rivet...it is only used to deploy the rivet in the material being joined.:nerd:

The short story: Use steel rivets, preferably stainless, in steel material.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You guys ever hear of galvanic corrosion? It happens when disimilar metals are in direct contact, or in supsension, in an electrolite. Think battery, because that is what you create. Now, if you use alluminum rivets in a steel hole and get that wet...you have created a battery. That works because the electrons from one metal transfer to the other metal throught the electrolite (water) and it creates corrosion (oxidation) in the process. The alluminum rivets will corrode in a steel exhuast creating an ugly mess. The seel pin (mandrel) is not a structural part of the rivet...it is only used to deploy the rivet in the material being joined.:nerd:

The short story: Use steel rivets, preferably stainless, in steel material.

Thanks for the info, I have gone for stainless.:yo:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Actually, use stainless steel rivets. I have just received slash cutt tips from Motovation and planing to replace tips this weekend. Do a little search here on the forum , I think it was Lee who explained why not to use alluminum rivets . For rivets source ask Noel , he was the one who helped me to find source how ever my Motovation ordered (original Arrow slash cutt tips came with rivets ) . And Yes , for those who wonder They ( slash cutt tips ) will fitt to stock exhaust !!! just edited (here is a phone number for a rivets source) (USA) 632-600-3600

So I guess from your info that if the slash fit RG3 & standard then my standard will fit the RG3s?

I'm gunna give it a try when I receive my rivets.

So my 1000R will now have BMC airfilter, RG3s, MVAgusta Race ECU not sure I should get her decated, surely the race ECU has been developed with the cat???
 

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Let's see if I've got this right. You want to install stock tips on an RG3 muffler body. Right? If so bad idea as the stock tips have a much smaller ID than the RG's and will be more restrictive which sort of defeats the purpose.

As for riveting them on you will find that the holes in the tips will probably not align with the holes in the muffler if you swap them and you'll have to hog out the holes to get the rivets in. Use 3/16" SS rivets with a steel mandrel (easier to break unless you have an air riveter). Seal the holes so the mandrel doesn't rust if it's left in there or punch them back in and seal the holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi, I'm not replacing the whole tips just the outside sleeves. I have RGs from a Tambo and Im not too fond of their colour so I would like to swap them over. Has anyone done this?
 

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The outlet openings on the stocks are smaller than those on the RG's. You'll have to open them up to accomodate the larger perfed tubing in the RG's.
 

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Yeah I just removed tips from the pipe today and will install slash cuts tomorow ( difference that I see its in internal perforated tubes diameter RG-3 are 1'' diameter stock exhaust has outside tubes 1" and two middle exhaust ports .750 " diameter. Those will need a little modification to install larger perforated tubing and or You can just use same baffles and just reasemble stock exhaust with slash cuts.
 

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The outlet openings on the stocks are smaller than those on the RG's. You'll have to open them up to accomodate the larger perfed tubing in the RG's.
No they are not! The outer sleevs are the same size as RG3 sleevs! Just the inside tube is different. Ask me how I know! I did the same thing to mine so when I got pulled over it wiould have the road legal stamping on it, and it saved me from a exhaust ticket more than once. And it fits 100% without mods!
 

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You guys ever hear of galvanic corrosion? It happens when disimilar metals are in direct contact, or in supsension, in an electrolite. Think battery, because that is what you create. Now, if you use alluminum rivets in a steel hole and get that wet...you have created a battery. That works because the electrons from one metal transfer to the other metal throught the electrolite (water) and it creates corrosion (oxidation) in the process. The alluminum rivets will corrode in a steel exhuast creating an ugly mess. The seel pin (mandrel) is not a structural part of the rivet...it is only used to deploy the rivet in the material being joined.:nerd:

The short story: Use steel rivets, preferably stainless, in steel material.
Hmmm, makes sense and thats something I already knew, but you do realize that the tips are aluminum right? so you already have aluminum touching steel no matter what rivets you use....right?
 

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Hmmm, Nope, I did not know that. Mine appear to be brushed steel. I haven't done any mods to them, so I haven't had anything but the entire heavy assembly in my hands. I was, actually still am, under the impression the tips are steel, at least on the 312R. Anyone else want to weigh in?
 
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