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Discussion Starter #1
Hello mates!

As I stated in my intro, I am seriously thinking about getting an MV F4. I have read the forums a lot, but still have a few questions, for which I did not find the exact answers. So that is why I am asking for your help, opinions.

But first, about me. I have been riding an Aprilia RS250 for quite a few years, so regular services and temperamental bikes are not sth new to me. (Although, truth to be told, it never left me on the side of the road..)
I am riding only on the street, there is no track nearby. And probably I will not do any track days in the near future too, so I am looking on the purchase from this point of view. (the RR with the TXX is an overkill for me, and an unnecessary probable source of problems)

So, from the point of reliability and usability, is the 2013 upgrade of the F4 would worth choosing over a 2010-2012 bike with the Marelli ECU? Honestly, I do not really need the power upgrade of the corsacorta engine also. I just want an achingly beautiful and fun bike to ride on the nearby B-roads for lot's of years to come. The main things, that complicate the decision for me are the newer ECU and the ABS - is the latter one worth it?

There is a silver 2012 bike (F4 or F4R) for sale, with some smaller repaired body damages, on which I could possibly get a bargain price - first owner bike w 13000km (about 8000miles). I was thinking to get a full repaint for it (black w red accents like the Senna 750), so the previous accident and the grey/silver colour may not be crucial.

What are your thoughts about this? Any help is appreciated.

And would like to ask, if there is a buying guide for 2nd gen F4 here, what too look out for, please post the forum link for it, because I did not succeed to find it...

Thanks a lot!!!
 

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I would be very cautious of buying a bike that has been crashed.

Most owners become different beings when selling something, so therefore damage will usually be understated. Sure, it might be cheaper, but not necessarily a bargain. Ideally, a person conversant with accident/repair qualifications should inspect the bike for or with you.
 

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My 2010 F4 is the best bike I’ve ever owned. The realisation of a dream for me.
I’ve never ridden a bike with abs so can’t help there.
I’ve never played with the traction control on my F4.
Switchable rain map is handy.
Sensible mods (uprated water pump, samco hoses, decat headers and Ecu to match) to mine have made it a great all round, every day bike.
I tracked it once, just to say I had done it. Let’s just say it’s performance vastly outweighed my talent!!

Hope this helps

Fred
 

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My 2010 F4 is the best bike I’ve ever owned.

Totally agree with Freds comment. I have owned my 2010 F4 for 3 years and it has given me immense pleasure.
I can not speak for your talent, but for me I doubt I would need or could even use the extra power a newer model might bring.
Remember it is a machine you need to keep well maintained and it will serve you well.
As Nigel says do you research and checks on any damage bike you buy, your safely is worth more than a small saving on price.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nigelrb, Fredzedex, SamUK, thanks for your thoughts on this topic!
Yes, I agree, bikes with accident history can be a costly trap. In that case, I would definitely be careful and go to check it with a skilled&experienced mechanic.
As far as maintenance goes, I know, I would have to take good care of it. (Regular maintenance is kind of normal for me, considering the bikes + the Alfa I own...)
No, I am well aware of my talents, so I would respect the power of then 2nd gen. F4 1000 very much.

So you say, in everyday rideability and reliability there is not that much difference in the pre 2013 and the post 2013 models? Wondering whether the facelifted model worths the extra price..
 

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The major difference from the early and later second generation F4s is the electronics. Chassis and engine are basically the same.

With advanced electronics come benefits and downsides, complexity being the primary downside.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The major difference from the early and later second generation F4s is the electronics. Chassis and engine are basically the same.

With advanced electronics come benefits and downsides, complexity being the primary downside.

Thanks! That is what I have been suspecting too...
I am leaning more and more towards a 2010-12 model..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Which Alfa?

I have 2010 1750 turbo Brera:grin2:

Fred



That nice!! I'd like one like yours too.
I am a proud owner of a GT :) Truth to be told it is a 1.9 diesel, not the legendary Busso ( I know, a diesel Alfa is like a woman with a moustache, but I have to be sensible to balance my garage of bikes :grin2: )
 

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That nice!! I'd like one like yours too.
I am a proud owner of a GT :) Truth to be told it is a 1.9 diesel, not the legendary Busso ( I know, a diesel Alfa is like a woman with a moustache, but I have to be sensible to balance my garage of bikes :grin2: )

Very cool my friend, I had a a 2.0 petrol GT. Great car

Fred
 

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I went from a 2011 F4 to a 2016 F4rr and I love both bikes. The electronics on the newer bike are much such as riding modes are much easier to use in my opinion. Always had difficulty switching between Rain and Sport mode on the 2011 so ended up just leaving it in Sport modes all the time.
I will say that for me the biggest downside (and it is a significant one IMO) is that the ride by wire throttle just isn't as easy to modulate as the cable actuated one of my 2011. The throttle has been the biggest pain in the ass of my 2016 and I have made it better with some electronic tweaking through ECU Studio but still not as good as the 2011 in stock form.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I went from a 2011 F4 to a 2016 F4rr and I love both bikes. The electronics on the newer bike are much such as riding modes are much easier to use in my opinion. Always had difficulty switching between Rain and Sport mode on the 2011 so ended up just leaving it in Sport modes all the time.
I will say that for me the biggest downside (and it is a significant one IMO) is that the ride by wire throttle just isn't as easy to modulate as the cable actuated one of my 2011. The throttle has been the biggest pain in the ass of my 2016 and I have made it better with some electronic tweaking through ECU Studio but still not as good as the 2011 in stock form.

Hmm, that is an interesting and a useful insight - just what I am looking for.
Huge thanks!!
 

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The 2013 has the new Eldor ECU, the bike has upgraded software like ABS. For track use you will be looking to "Delete" the ABS or it will interfere too early.
The 2013 can have ECU studio flash, which makes it configurable and can offer a quickshifter as well as an auto-blipper, which is quite nice for track use.

The 2010-2012 has no ABS and due to the Magneti Marelli ECU, cannot be configured. To get around that you would have to fit a Microtec ECU which you can connect to your laptop and configure. Chris at X-bikes can fit and configure it for you or can do it via mail I believe. The 2010 bike due to it having manual throttle (as opposed to a fly-by-wire for the 2013+ model) cannot have an auto-blipper (you need to have the throttle controlled electronically in order to incorporate an auto-blipper).

The TTX will not give you any problems should you go for the RR (mine never has).

Both the R and RR will give you the same satisfaction for track use, unless you are a racer, you will not be able to tell the difference I reckon.

My only serious issue was excessive valve and valve guide wear on cylinder one, which luckily was caught before a catastrophic failure, but I lost a whole season because of that.

Another smaller issue was that the rear brake led failed twice.

I hope this helps.

Good luck with your bike, which ever way you decide to go!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The 2013 has the new Eldor ECU, the bike has upgraded software like ABS. For track use you will be looking to "Delete" the ABS or it will interfere too early.
The 2013 can have ECU studio flash, which makes it configurable and can offer a quickshifter as well as an auto-blipper, which is quite nice for track use.

The 2010-2012 has no ABS and due to the Magneti Marelli ECU, cannot be configured. To get around that you would have to fit a Microtec ECU which you can connect to your laptop and configure. Chris at X-bikes can fit and configure it for you or can do it via mail I believe. The 2010 bike due to it having manual throttle (as opposed to a fly-by-wire for the 2013+ model) cannot have an auto-blipper (you need to have the throttle controlled electronically in order to incorporate an auto-blipper).

The TTX will not give you any problems should you go for the RR (mine never has).

Both the R and RR will give you the same satisfaction for track use, unless you are a racer, you will not be able to tell the difference I reckon.

My only serious issue was excessive valve and valve guide wear on cylinder one, which luckily was caught before a catastrophic failure, but I lost a whole season because of that.

Another smaller issue was that the rear brake led failed twice.

I hope this helps.

Good luck with your bike, which ever way you decide to go!

Chris
Thanks christosc! Wow, it is a pro answer! It does really help. I see you have got some serious experience in the topic.

About the Microtec ECU swap, do I understand it correctly: with it I could enable ABS on a 10-12 bike? Or would I need new brakes or some other parts too? /sorry if it is a silly question, I am not that into mechanics.../
Asking, because I guess ABS could be useful in street/city driving, considering the "culture and awareness of drivers" in our region... :/

Tomi
 

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Hi Tomi,

All the Microtec ECU does is (supposedly) make the engine run better and it is configurable. The 2010-2012 bikes did not have ABS and I don't think it is economically (or logically) advantageous to introduce it to those bikes. ABS on the track is not good, everybody pays good money to have the ABS systems "Deleted" from their bikes for track use. So it's simple really, if you "must" have ABS, then you need a post 2013 bike.

C.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Tomi,

All the Microtec ECU does is (supposedly) make the engine run better and it is configurable. The 2010-2012 bikes did not have ABS and I don't think it is economically (or logically) advantageous to introduce it to those bikes. ABS on the track is not good, everybody pays good money to have the ABS systems "Deleted" from their bikes for track use. So it's simple really, if you "must" have ABS, then you need a post 2013 bike.

C.
It is logical, actually.
No, ABS is not a must, at all. Just thought, it could be solved with a simple hack, maybe - silly me. I have been living without it, so it is not a deal breaker.
Thank you for the insight!

Tomi
 
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