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Discussion Starter #1
anyone try lowering the rear spocket size to a 42 or 41 tooth (525 stock chain/43)..........of course lowering engine rpm at speed, etc., im looking for if the chain would rub the swing arm guides etc......problems found or not.
 

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You will have to install a yellow box in order to re-calibrate your speedometer and odometer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ah yes, didnt think of that one.....thats why this forum is great---cdamb, thank you sir
 

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cdamb said:
You will have to install a yellow box in order to re-calibrate your speedometer and odometer.
This will take higher math than I'm capable of but minus 1 or 2 rear rear teeth may make the speedometer more accurate. Mine stock indicates about 8% high according to my GPS, and dropping 1 tooth should change the indicated speed less than 3%, 2 teeth less than 6% bringing the indicated speeds closer to actual.

My head hurts :ahhh:

Tom
 

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TPadden you da man. After I rote the post I thought of one tooth at the front sprocket and then wondered how much would 1 or 2 teeth in the rear change the ratio? Good catch!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
from the racing days, a general rule was 1 frt (counter shaft) spocket tooth was equal to 2 rear (drive) spocket teeth.......thanks for all the input. mainly wondering about the swing arm/chain clearances; at suspension compression of course.
 

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Still no answer from anyone who has dropped teeth on the rear. Looks like you're the first - if you do keep us informed because I'm interested in the 41 rear.

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Not yet, but I'm seriously planning on dropping mine to a 41 (*2 down) this summer. At cruising speed on the freeway it revs 6-7rpm which is a little high for me. The motor has crazy torque so I don't think it will hurt city driving much.




FUBAR said:
anyone try lowering the rear spocket size to a 42 or 41 tooth (525 stock chain/43)..........of course lowering engine rpm at speed, etc., im looking for if the chain would rub the swing arm guides etc......problems found or not.
 

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the local dealer suggested I went up a tooth on the front for better cruising. I haven't done it yet but could be good.

John
 

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Does MV make a bigger front sprocket??? Emoto doesn't sell one bigger than 15 tooth which is what is stock.



john348 said:
the local dealer suggested I went up a tooth on the front for better cruising. I haven't done it yet but could be good.

John
 

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Correction, 1 tooth in front equals 3 in back. Gearing ratios hover at 2.75 to 3.25.

You shouldn't need a yellow box or speedo recalibrator. The speedo reads the rear wheel speed (like a Ducati) right?

If it is required, this is the best with accuracy and widest calibration range. I used one on my R1 when re-geared, it was easy.

http://www.speedohealer.com/eng/intro.htm
 

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dumbcomputers said:
Does MV make a bigger front sprocket??? Emoto doesn't sell one bigger than 15 tooth which is what is stock.

We also supply a 16t sprocket, but as we have never been asked for it we haven't displayed this article.
 

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THANKS Emoto!!!

I will note this when making my decision on re-gearing my Brutale. I think it would be easier to change the front sprocket (*if I already have a big enough socket) but I love the look of the gold anodized rear sprocket. decisions, decisions...


eMoto UK said:
We also supply a 16t sprocket, but as we have never been asked for it we haven't displayed this article.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
question for emoto, ive been told that there is a clearance problem (no room for a bigger spocket up front) in the cases for a 16t counter? that would be an easier r/r to do n what i would rather.............no danger for the cases, in stock, i will be ordering.
 

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dumbcomputers said:
...... I think it would be easier to change the front sprocket ...
I'm must be missing something here - the rear sprockets are called "quick change rear sprockets" for a reason. It appears to me that there is no way it would be easier to change the front; changing the rear couldn't be easier - loosen the chain/eccentric nut and remove 5 bolts.

Changing the rear seems also more desirable just by the fact that the sprocket circumference is MUCH larger so changing teeth numbers doesn't effect the link-teeth incidence angles if you are reducing teeth nor are you constrained by any cover limiting size if you add teeth.

Am I missing something??????? :laughing:


Tom
 

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FUBAR said:
question for emoto, ive been told that there is a clearance problem (no room for a bigger spocket up front) in the cases for a 16t counter? that would be an easier r/r to do n what i would rather.............no danger for the cases, in stock, i will be ordering.
You may be right, hence why we are not showing it on the site as we have not testing this piece, would have to try it on a bike before we sell.

However as TPadden says above it is much easier changing the rear sprocket!
 

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BrisBrutale said:
I am thinking about going 1 tooth down on the front. I notice the fuel pump? is part of the front casing. Any probs pulling this off?
You're in trouble if you are inside your petrol tank to change your front sprocket????????? :)

You talking about the clutch slave?????? If so after you loosen it just reach behind the cover to hold the clutch pushrod in place while removing the cover.

Also - if I were doing the front I'd make sure I didn't remove the chain until I broke torque on the retaining nut - using the rear wheel/ chain rather than the transmission to provide the back pressure.



Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #20
gents, you are correct, it is easier to attack the rear- but as far as chain clearances/ not rubbing on the swing arm/ a larger counter would be the ticket. now, further invest shows a larger counter is possibly not an option; so were back to the rear- spocket that is- and keeping it out there/ for any thoughts/ for the change from 43t to a 41t or 42t to lower highway rpm a little without chain rub/damage issues........emoto any input?
 
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