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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. A while back I posted about some stalling issues I was having with my 910S and I got a few responses that basically recommended maint and a few quick tips like greasing spark plugs, changing air filter, etc.

I did all that now and it is now way better than it was, so thanks for the tips! But it is still doing it, most notably when the heat starts getting above 185 ish then it will start stalling out when I pull the clutch in. Otherwise it will run beautifully. It's a great bike that I have blast cruising around on but this stalling issue is really a drag and it seems like an inherent characteristic of the bike at this point as I have done any maint I can think of.

So my question is: now that all maint is up to date, what other options do I have to try in order to terminatedly fix this blasted stalling bug?

Thanks,

LS
 

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What is your idle speed? And has the TPS been set correctly?
Low idle speed is number one cause for stall from idle, although usually worse when cold than hot.

You still have minor tuning needs.
 

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Hi,not to sure on the 910 ,but i think you need software to reset the tps,then wind your 4 air bleed valve out to increase you idle rpm,this should stop your stalling issue,maybe wind them out 1/2 a turn on each air bleed valve.

some one check me on this

cheers eddy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Idle is 1100, not sure on the TPS, I don't think anyone has ever messed with it so its prolly still stock. I tried looking up how to do this and got kinda intimidated by the process. Hooking up a multi-meter reading the resistances or what not and throwing it back together, I might be able to figure that out but it would probably take me a day of fiddling around trying to figure out what the hell I'm doing.


Any links you might recommend for the less mechanically inclined to walk me through this process?
 

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1100 rpm is to low ,use vdst software and adjust fuel trim to increase idle rpm to at least 1200 to 1250 rpm

or turn out your air bleed valves maybe half a turn out to increase idle rpm.
 

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had another thought ,open your fuel cap ,turn the motor on, and grab a torch ad see if there are any bubbles in there, if there are ,your lines in the fuel pump are stuffed, or air is coming in from the 2 small o rings around the fuel lines under the tank which connect to the tank.

have a look
 

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You can check the TPS using my software - look in the maintenance section.

I just recently checked one that was running very poor, apart from the overfueling from some weird EPROM, the tps was set at 1.2 !

If you mess with the air screws, you also mess with the idle co% which actually effects the while fuel map, not just the idle.

Adam

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The fuel map on these bikes are crap anyway, so I would say that adjusting the air screws is really not going to change much in the way of the running of the bike. anything over 10 t0 100 percent throttle is going to be minimal in the way the air bleeds are going to effect the bike and its fuel map.

at the end of the day put on a pc3 and put it on a dyno. This is just my 2 cents worth and others may have different ideas. Like I have stated before my bike runs as smooth as any Jap bike, no surging ,no snatchy throttle and no stalling, ever.

what I have done is 1= reset tps using vdst
2=throttle bodie sync and adjust air bleed valves
using vdst software to achieve an idle of around 1200 to 1250 rpm
3=adjust fuel trim using vdst
4=bought a pc 5
5=reset throttle position in pc5 software
6=had it dyno tuned
ps: bought new set throttle bodies as mine had wear and tear

used iridium plugs

please note: this is only my solution and there must be 5 other ways and thoughts how to achieve this .

cheers eddy
 

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Your probably right about the air screws but you can have the ecu pot fully one way with the air screws in and fully the other way and the air screws out with the same CO%

I would certainly set the CO% and TPS. If the TPS was a column out, that would cause issues for sure.

It would be interesting to see how much you had to change the fueling with the PC.

Cheers
Adam
 

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crap loads ,i will post a couple up ,one map i used the at-100 auto tune ,then i had one done on a dyno before i changed my throttle bodies,i have to book in another dyno shortly to see what map they produce just to compare the auto tune to a dyno tune .this might just take a while .as i have to put the auto tune back on and start over as i feel air was being pulled in from the joint in my pipes just before the decate section.

This i fixed today with copper high temp silicone inside the joint.SO will report back when done .

cheers eddy
 

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had another thought ,open your fuel cap ,turn the motor on, and grab a torch ad see if there are any bubbles in there, if there are ,your lines in the fuel pump are stuffed, or air is coming in from the 2 small o rings around the fuel lines under the tank which connect to the tank.

have a look
I just did this.

1) fuel moves around in tank.

2) small bubbles from below rise.

I replaced the fuel line O ring. Wonder if this is my issue. Just started after new fuel filter and fuel line.

tt
 
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