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Is page 32 of the engine manual really the only info on how to do a valve clearance check?
Didn't look at the manual.......But
It's a 120° crankshaft .....there should be a chart listing which valves you can check when #1 is at TDC besides the #1 valves
You might have to rotate the crankshaft so each of the cylinders is at TDC.......read the manual
Write everything down and be careful......it's not difficult, but it does require care.......if valves need shimming, you'll need an accurate metric micrometer and a box of shims you can get them from www.hotcams.com
When shimming put the shims in with the numbers up......so the valve stem won't destroy the numbers
Ed Eskew posted how you do the Go-No Go method for checking valves use Search to find it:wink2:

The 4 cylinders have a 180° crankshaft, the chart lists which other valves you can check at the same time, then you rotate the crankshaft 360° and do the rest :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks Noel,
I know it's not difficult and as you know I've done the valves on my Aprilias and the Daytona 675, just surprised at how brief the manual is on the subject.
Did a search on the go-no-go you mentioned but couldn't find anything. I've got no skills. No bow staff, no hacking and no search skills.
 

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Go-No Go simply means you take 2 feeler gauges, one at the minimum clearance spec and one at the maximum clearance spec. If the minimum goes in smoothly (with no force), or the maximum barely goes in without force then the clearances are in spec...move on. You can confirm with one size larger and smaller than spec. (should be loose, or very tight)

Unless you are obsessed with getting valve clearance dead nuts in the middle (or somewhere else) and you are prepared to shave shims to achieve that goal (not a recommended practice), then knowing the clearance is in between minimum and maximum spec is all you need to know.

In other words, don't try to figure out what the exact clearance measurement is.... it is within spec. Go...No Go.
 

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The MV manual is made for service technicians with experience. I remember it saying that in the service manual. Most of the work is getting to the point of being able to measure the gap. So, yes, that section is brief. But, there are other sections needed to properly remove and refit the cams. Its not all in one place.

Not hard to do but take your time and be methodical. Don't assume anything... such as cyl 3 tdc on phonic wheel sensor position.
 

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Welcome to the forum. The valve clearance check is no big deal, however the actual shimming if needed is a major undertaking! Search the forum thoroughly and you will see my on going trek down that rabbit hole. If you are an experienced mechanic then go-for it. However even though I have learned a lot. I would now pay the 1000-2000 dollars to have it done...MAYBE!
 
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