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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, at wit's end with my ride after nearly two years of issues - R20 000 on repairs and only about two months riding :thewife:

I posted a thread or two earlier when I encountered electrical and mechanical issues, the bike spent months in various workshops and after a partial gearbox replacement, new alternator, wiring repair and fuel line repair she's dead again.

The last repair I had done was when an alternator wire was damaged which affected the charging system, first symptom was that she wouldn't start (not turning the starter and fuel pump whine not coming on when the ignition is switched on) at all - cycling the kill switch a few times and sometimes rolling forward and trying again would start her. She ran for about a week when whilst on a ride she died again, this time no loss of power and eventual quitting, she just died cold and no matter how many times I crank the starter turns fine but she won't fire up, not even a hint of it. The starter just turns until the battery dies.

They replaced the battery and I've since recharged it to around 13.6V but she doesn't start up the pumps and do the usual needle (rpm) swing , even when she occasionally goes through a proper startup she just won;t fire.

Here's the embarrassing part, I did notice high temps in the week that she ran after I got her back from the last repair and whilst I checked the oil when I collected her I took their word for it that she had enough coolant and water in the tank but just found the coolant to be nearly empty. There's also a lot of greasy oil on the front of the motor all around the exhaust manifolds but that could be old. I never got any overheat warnings but only after replacing every fuse in the fuse box did the panel work properly.

Please help, this bike cost me a very precious relationship, my livelihood, dog, house and kids and I can't even sell her until she's paid up in about 36 years. What can I do I really need help - I've actually shed tears about this and am about to throw the thing in a river.

I apparently love my bike more than my (now ex) partner but I really am about to give up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Ya that's me, apologies for the lack of response to the previous advice, I spent many hours trying to figure some of the previous issues out myself (with the help of the manuals I was pointed to) but to be 'brutale' honest I'v had 4-5 months of very little contact with the outside world and some nasty personal affairs consuming my time. Eventually I caved and took her in to what was supposed to be the best electrical specialists for MV's in SA - like I said they found a broken wire from the alternator but she only ran for a week after they gave her back to me and was not starting from the switch almost from day one.

*edit* I followed the advice given wherever possible (within my abilities or understanding) but in the end I think it took a 'specialist' to find the offending wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok chaps, my baby was returned to me in running condition after another R3000 repair! Again the cause of the symptoms described above was apparently frayed and broken wiring in the harness which were replaced. Battery seems ok and is charging but seems to struggle a little at this latest issue - this morning she started switching off randomly and completely (lights, panel, motor - complete dead stick) and then on again and one or two pushes on the start switch and she fires up - sometimes really struggles. Problem is that this happens randomly and the bike stops completely - happened on the freeway with several vehicles on my tail - what could be causing this?
 

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A loose wire connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I suspect as much, problem is I've twice payed huge money to supposed professionals taunted as among the best in the country and the problem persists. :( I have the wiring diagrams and workshop manual - may as well be hieroglyphics and greek though) so I can go through every wire and check if I can find the problem - here's another question, can the Dyno Jet Power Commander be unplugged simply?
 

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I don't have any experience with Dyno Jet Power Commanders simply because I think they are not a good solution.

As I have read though, you should be able to unplug the PC from the harness and connect the normal harness connections.

People who have done this will chime in.

On your cutout issue, start at the battery. Check those connections tight. There theyrun to a starter solenoid and that area can be corroded and loose or high resistance. Just be systematic.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks mate! I have to just face the mountain and get stuck in - I'm way too in love with my MV to get rid of her.
 

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You can eat an elephant...one bite at a time.
 

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Important question.....what SPU do you have? That's the black box on the right side with the fuses.

If it is the old problematic type then get a new one. Just do it.

Even if it is the new style it could be malfunctioning (although not so common as the original).
This box controls everything! It contains relays and diodes and the first generation were notoriously weak.

A replacement wire harness might be the best bet if you really have continued broken/shorted wires in the harness. A good used one should be easy to find.

Good luck and I hope your troubles in life are behind you.
 

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I suspect as much, problem is I've twice payed huge money to supposed professionals taunted as among the best in the country and the problem persists. :( I have the wiring diagrams and workshop manual - may as well be hieroglyphics and greek though) so I can go through every wire and check if I can find the problem - here's another question, can the Dyno Jet Power Commander be unplugged simply?
I don't have a PC on my MV but I did on the Raider. I had issues with the bike that went away when I disconnected the PC. They're easy to install/disconnect. Instructions are here.

http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/712/install/411/eng712-411.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Youre a champion thanks matey!! Had a stunning ride this morning - hassle free - purring like a kitten but the random cut out always threatens. Im quite sure she's over fuelling as well - I smell wet fuel very potently when I stop, I think the PC needs to go
 

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Its not the PC FAULT, 1 =do you know what your Co at idle is,SHOULD BE AROUND 13.4 APPROX
2= do you understand the software
3=adding and subtracting feul
4= air bleed adjustment and syc
5=dyno tune
is your bike standard setup
Decate yes or no
you can not just put on a PC and download maps and think it should be perfect.

ok, i have had my rant,Bottle of port please

More info on your setup would be great

cheers eddy
 

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Hey Eddy,

I had my PC dynoed twice. Once by a guy who just does V-Twin bikes, the other by a former racer and engineer. Neither of them could fix the problem and I was done plunking down $300 a pop. Disconnected it...problem went away. Granted, it did pick up a good amount of HP and torque with the PC but it wasn't worth the dealing with the issue.
 

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Hard to say how much of that is just the Arrow. Someone may know. I had a baseline HP and torque dyno run on the Raider before the PC was connected. With the PC I picked up about 8 HP and 15 lbs. of torque. No doubt the bike was faster...to the point I could smoke sub liter sport bikes light to light. :smoking: But now I have the MV which more than satisfies my need for speed. :yo: The Raider has been put back to still fast, but not as, and still pretty.
 
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