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Discussion Starter #1
My god that thing is tough to get off... Yes, I know its threaded "reverse", yep, the catch is also out and there's nothing broken off within the hub.

Yet, I can still lift the bike stands clear off the ground using a 3 foot breaker bar. Next step is to get the Mrs to sit on it while I attempt the same, but other than soaking it with some WD40, any other tips?

Also, thinking to myself a bit here, could the wheel bearing issues be related to difficulty getting the wheel off? I mean, by lashing it to the pegs as Ive seen suggested around the forum, surely thats going to apply some lateral twist when applying pressure?


Appreciate any help or suggestions :)
 

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If you haven't got an air wrench/ rattle gun , Take your bike with the correct socket to your local car tire outlet abd ask the guys there to undo the nut for you using their rattle gun.

Re tighten to a reasonable level and take it home . Then it's easy as the stiction has been removed.

I use either a 4x torque converter ( thanks Carl for the tip ), or a Snap on rattle gun

Joe
 

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I think that one of the problems we have here is a need for instant gratification. We know that improper nut maintenance cause galvanic corrosion and binding. That is brought about by not greasing the threaded section of the wheel nut when doing any removal/replacement operation. We know that ham-handed techs have over-torqued, reverse-torqued and otherwise screwed up what should be a simple operation.

Now, when faced with removal of a bound nut, people want it off NOW.

This leads to problems.

Even impact wrenches have their limitations.

We, as perpetrators of violence on our wheel nuts, can help ourselves by not being impatient. Using a quality penetrating oil, like Kroil, or a concoction of ATF and acetone...or whatever Noel recommends, to soak the threads over night is a major step in the right direction.

A tapered well fitting 55 mm socket is the next necessity. Attach that to a quality impact wrench and then let the wrench do its job. The "impact" part of impact wrench is your little helper.
Those tiny hammer blows in rapid succession over a period of time break the bond that is holding your nut in place. Let the hammer blows do the work. It may take some time. Eventually, the binding force will be overcome by the penetrating oil and the tiny hammer blows.

The nut will spin off easily.

Probably the most important thing you can do is to maintain that mechanical connection. Grease the threads with a high quality grease upon reassembly. Do it once a year.

Your nutz will thank me.:nerd2:
 

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I tried using that torque wrench. Not enough torque.
might just be a case of using the wrong expression but for those that don't know torque wrenches are for dong things up don't use them for undoing, very bad for them
 

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Release oil ( Kroil ) ..Pneumatic wrench..with pref Aluminium socket so as not to mangle the appearance of the nut...Consider pouring some boiling water on the nut to heat it up..

As Chuck says ..use patience and everything at your disposal to give you the advantage.

It's one reason I like working on my own bikes..I don't have to deal with frozen on nuts or brake bleed nipples etc..They get serviced properly and the threads greased where required.

Good luck !

Joe
 

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might just be a case of using the wrong expression but for those that don't know torque wrenches are for dong things up don't use them for undoing, very bad for them
My mistake. I meant impact wrench.

To the OP. If you decide to purchase, these go on sale regularly. Check out the coupon.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I tried using that torque wrench. Not enough torque.
Thanks! I read your message on my phone, in the parking lot at HF ;)

Went to Home Depot instead, and bought a much higher rated Ryobi one, still no luck however. Still, I got a new toy. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you haven't got an air wrench/ rattle gun , Take your bike with the correct socket to your local car tire outlet abd ask the guys there to undo the nut for you using their rattle gun.

Re tighten to a reasonable level and take it home . Then it's easy as the stiction has been removed.

I use either a 4x torque converter ( thanks Carl for the tip ), or a Snap on rattle gun

Joe
Hey Joe - yeah, I got a Ryobi electric one, but no luck... Taking your second piece of advice this afternoon and taking the bike up to a local wheel place, see if they can do it....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have my "Shock and Awe" 1 inch drive socket if you need it. That's what it took on my SPR first time I removed the nut. 3/4 inch impact guns just twisted off the 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapters.

Let me know, I'll loan it to you for cost of postage. You'll have to go to the truck tire shop to use their 1" air gun.

http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/20-maintenance-tech-issues-all-4-cyl-models/46242-rear-wheel-nut-just-not-going-come-off-without-fight.html
read through that whole thread last night on the phone (which is surprisingly tough to use on this site for some reason), I sincerely hope it doesn't come down to that level of effort mate, although the offer is much appreciated :)

Will be taking her over to a garage later with an air gun, will post progress after!

cheers
Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #16
SUCCESS!

Final solution: took it round the corner to my friendly wheel shop, got the guy to use his air gun on it for about 10 seconds, then hand tighten it for me to limp back home again.


What a nightmare!
 

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I think that one of the problems we have here is a need for instant gratification. We know that improper nut maintenance cause galvanic corrosion and binding. That is brought about by not greasing the threaded section of the wheel nut when doing any removal/replacement operation. We know that ham-handed techs have over-torqued, reverse-torqued and otherwise screwed up what should be a simple operation.

Now, when faced with removal of a bound nut, people want it off NOW.

This leads to problems.

Even impact wrenches have their limitations.

We, as perpetrators of violence on our wheel nuts, can help ourselves by not being impatient. Using a quality penetrating oil, like Kroil, or a concoction of ATF and acetone...or whatever Noel recommends, to soak the threads over night is a major step in the right direction.

A tapered well fitting 55 mm socket is the next necessity. Attach that to a quality impact wrench and then let the wrench do its job. The "impact" part of impact wrench is your little helper.
Those tiny hammer blows in rapid succession over a period of time break the bond that is holding your nut in place. Let the hammer blows do the work. It may take some time. Eventually, the binding force will be overcome by the penetrating oil and the tiny hammer blows.

The nut will spin off easily.

Probably the most important thing you can do is to maintain that mechanical connection. Grease the threads with a high quality grease upon reassembly. Do it once a year.

Your nutz will thank me.:nerd2:

Sound advice for anyone in the same situation, don't be too quick to dive in with brute force and ignorance.
I tried removing the accursed wheel nut on my Brutale for the first time yesterday and approached the task gradually, small bar, longer bar and finally a 3/4 drive Makita rattle gun. Still couldn't budge the bugger so I sprayed the nut liberally with WD40 (yes, I realise its primarily a water dispersant, not a penetrating oil). Left it overnight and first hit with the rattle gun this morning the nut came straight off.
 

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That sodding wheel nut is driving me nuts. Yes, I did grease the thread on reassembly (less than 3 months ago), but when I tried to remove the wheel this morning to fit a hugger it wouldn't budge. I know it wasn't over torqued last time because I marked the axle and nut where the safety clip sits and the nut came back to the same spot.

I'll be soaking it with penetrating oil over the week-end and trying again Sunday, that's what worked last time I had this problem.
 
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