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Discussion Starter #1
Hope someone can help because I'm totally confused about what to do.

I have a 2012 Brutale 1090R, which was purchased new at Peter Stevens. They fitted it with an Arrow exhaust and a race ECU. Shortly after that I took it to DynoVerks in Knoxfield and they fitted a Power Commander and tuned it on the dyno. It had been running beautifully since then, but in December last year, I took it to a mob in Coburg called MotoMeccanica for a major service.

Despite over a dozen calls, and every excuse in the book, they wouldn't supply me with any paperwork for the major service (which cost around $750). Now they apparently don't exist or have gone out of business.

Since that service, the bike's performance has gone downhill. Fuel consumption dropped from 170km before the reserve light came on, to 150km. You can smell the petrol immediately. As the bike is now becoming hard to start, and the trip meter constantly resets itself, I took the bike in to Phil Tainton racing (on a recommendation from A1 motorcycles in Ringwood) for them to have a look at it.

They said that it looks like the oxygen/lambda probe is not working, so the bike is running super rich from idle to 6000rpm. They couldn't be sure whether it was the probe or the ecu that was malfunctioning. They can't do any more.

I now have to take the bike in to a mechanic to figure out what is going wrong. Should I take it back to Peter Stevens, or is there someone else out there (in Melbourne) that services these bikes? There was a company called MotoTecnic in Knoxfield, but they have recently closed down. I'd have taken it straight there.

Any advice would be extremely welcome.
 

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The race ecu doesn't use the o2 sensor.

My guess is one of the following :
TPS reset required ( ecu and pcv)
Map has been wiped from pcv.
Something else....

BTW, my 1090RR gets 200km+ before the light comes on, sometimes as much at 220.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So then it wouldn't matter if the O2 sensor wasn't working?

Maybe the ecu has died?

Would that explain why the trip meter (trip meter 1) doesn't work? The guy at Moto Meccanica (who did the 36k service) told me that he was going to do a TPS reset, but I never got to ask him exactly what he did.

200km? Mine has never been that good.
 

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A couple of points,you don't need a Power Commander with the Race ECU and normally the O2 sensor is removed.The race ECU is adjustable for Co2 emmision.
 

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My money would be on the power commander has been spiked and lost its settings.
The trip meter reset and hard starting is classic bad battery connections or the 4 pin plug on top of the starter solenoid loose connectors. There is more than a few threads about this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks revhead. Although I suspect the hard starting is caused by the sparkplugs suffering from the incorrect mixture.

I recently bought a new lithium battery in case that was the cause, but it didn't help - it just let me get more shots at turning the engine over. It'll turn over a few times then make that funny 'sproing' kind of noise, and the word 'ENG' pops up on the dash for a few seconds. It has always started eventually, though.

I'd love to know what could be the cause of the trip meter reset, which seems to happen whenever you start the bike. I used to use it to keep track of how much further I could go before a petrol stop was required. Not any more.
 

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I'd love to know what could be the cause of the trip meter reset, which seems to happen whenever you start the bike. I used to use it to keep track of how much further I could go before a petrol stop was required. Not any more.
The most probable cause of your Trip Meter reset has already been mentioned in this thread. When battery voltage drops, the bike will go into reset and the trip meter will go to zero. It is a common issue.

CAuse are a bad/low voltage battery and, as mentioned above, the start solenoid wiring needs to be cleaned and snugged up with a fresh coat of electrical grease. There are several threads describing this.

Hard starting is probably fouled plugs from running rich.

Dump the Power Commander.
 

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As already mentioned by others above I'd be checking the connector next to your battery ASAP, the four pin one into the starter relay.

I know the sproing noise you mention. When you hit the start button have you noticed that you only have to touch it long enough for the starter motor to spin and then if you let go it will keep turning over, then after a few turns it gives up if the motor doesn't fire up and you have to press the button again?

I'd probably take the bike back to Peter Stephens and get them to reset the TPS, 5 minute job. If that makes no difference piss the PCV off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks rsawkins. That's exactly what I'll do.
And yes, I've noticed that if you just hit the button briefly, it kicks over by itself a few times before giving up. That's the way I normally do it now.
 

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My 1078 was doing something similar.
When I pressed the starter button nothing would happen but when I released the button the bike would fire up wtf.
New starter relay from Startwin fixed it.:smile2:
 
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