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Not a great recipe. Have clocked up some serious km's on the MV (02 750 F4) - over 40,000 now. In at the dealers for a service and when draining the old oil they found some small bronze coloured 'shavings' of metal in it, but can't find the source. Anyone ever have the same problem and know where we should be looking?
Cheers.
 

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a tiny metal smith from 1800 B.C. was sucked into wormhole and transported into your crankcase. He has set up shop using the engines heat to smelt the copper and tin from your bearings into tiny swords.
 

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without knowing the material that each components are made of, then its just a WAG.
see if you can find out the material for the rod bearings and other assorted plain bearings. Locate all plain bearings on a engine parts schematic...those will be your most likely candidates. not sure in MV motor, but most likely the rod bearings, wrist pin bushing, cam bearings, etc.

The only way to know for sure is to know the exact makeup of each individual part and get an oil analiysis done. Even that may not tell you anything as some parts may have same metal.

I dont know if this would truely provide anything except a little insight, but if it was something major like rod or crank bearings, then oil preassure would decrease over time.
With a very accurate oil pressure guage, you could....with fresh oil and filter
check pressure at idle and lets say 3000 rpm...bike on rear stand, at a given temp...maybe 190 or whatever.
next oil change, do it again same exact conditions, same brand oil etc.
If any noticeable loss of pressure, then start saving some money for a majo repair.
 

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I use http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Calcium is one of the detergents in oil. Greater the quantity the better. I also run their TBN report which measures how much the oil has broken down to tell you how much farther you can run the oil - or that you should change it earlier than you did.

He keeps telling me I am ok to run farther and farther based on the oil's property when I send in samples. I'm up to between 3000-4,000mi and that's probably my balance point (comfort level really) but the additives in the oil are no where near broken down at that stage.

Here is a link that explains the rows:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gasoline_diesel_report_expl.html

Elements are quantified in the oil at part per million levels (PPM). This list shows the most common sources of the elements in a gasoline or diesel engine oil.

Aluminum : Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
Iron : Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Lead: Bearings.
Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
Molybdenum : Anti-wear additive, coating on some new rings
(washes off as break-in occurs).
Nickel: Trace element in steel.
Manganese : Trace element, additive in gasoline.
Silver: Trace element.
Titanium: Trace element.
Potassium : Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types.
Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.
Silicon : Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets, antifreeze inhibitors.
Sodium: Antifreeze inhibitors, additive in some gasoline engine oils.
Calcium : Detergent/dispersant additive.
Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.
Zinc: Anti-wear additive.
Barium : Detergent/dispersant additive.

Physical properties: Viscosity, flashpoint, % fuel and antifreeze, % water and insolubles are all measured in gasoline and diesel engine oils. If fuel is present in the oil, the viscosity and flashpoint will often be lower than what was stated in the "Should be" line. Insolubles are solid material that is centrifuged out of the oil. They are typically free carbon from the oxidation of the oil itself, along with blow-by past the rings.
 

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When ever I drain the oil (I always use Motul) it does look metallic bronze, it also looked the same colour on a F40LM that I used to service, now that was nice car..
 
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