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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll be silly !!
Working with my F4Y10 I' ve broken plastic fuel pump connector .
ahhhhhh !!!




Sometimes I hear that there are people buying metal fuel pump conector, but I can not find it.

In StarTwin you cann't by only this piece ( I think), you only can buy all fuel pump !!!! ahhhh SOS
http://www.startwintrading.com/en/model/f4/f4_1000_my_10/oem/842
In ebay I've founf this, but I don't know if is specific for new model.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261299904088

I try to be brave and do my own maintenance, but break many things I need to improve.

www.mv-agusta.es using motorcycle app.
 

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Jorge;
I fixed one by tapping the fuel pump plate 1/4" NTP

the owner used a 90 degree fitting coming out of the tank for clearance reasons

you could use the male 90 degree in the pump and adapt the female to the hose

hope this helps

:popcorn:
 

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Hola Jorge - Please give me the size of the Barbed piece, it looks like a 3/8 on the photo. Once you give me the size, I will procure the Males with the thread, to go into the tank and the Females with the Barbed piece on them instead. Thank you Noel for the heads-up! always good talking with you.

Gracias!
Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jorge;
I fixed one by tapping the fuel pump plate 1/4" NTP

the owner used a 90 degree fitting coming out of the tank for clearance reasons

you could use the male 90 degree in the pump and adapt the female to the hose

hope this helps

:popcorn:
Thank's Noel.
I will study this solution with Frank (oldfast).
;)

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Jorge,not good news mate.I have seen this a few times now.MV sells the complete fuel pump plate only for around $900.00.One forum member welded a John Guest fitting directly into the plate as pictured.Or Noels way,tap the plate to 1/4npt and use the 2 fittings pictured. CPC part numbers are- LC23006 valved male elbow.
LCD10004 valved 1/4npt female.

61427.jpg

LC10004.jpg

LCD23006.jpg
 

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Mitch;
I don't think there is enough clearance to put a straight female in the plate, better to put a threaded 90 degree male in the plate and use a hose barbed female on the line

easier to remove too
 

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Yes Noel,that would be a great solution,but I cannot find a threaded 1/4npt elbow male coupling in the CPC listing.What fittings did Timber29 use Noel.Did you fit one of these to the plate?

brassfitting8.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Hoping Alex ( GP Racing) send me the CPC for my model bike.
Alex, I've send you email with pics.
Noel, thanks for contact with Alex.

I've tried repair the piece...may be works, only test for few days, I'll be waiting the metal piece from Alex.

Sorry guys,copy and paste in spanish...
I' ve done a manual for my forum members.
......
Cuando por torpeza rompemos el delicado conector de plástico de nuestras MV,como ha sido mi caso,tenemos 3 soluciones, una carísima, comprar la bomba entera, porque MV no sirve solo este conector,dos buscar un conector alternativo en la industria auxiliar, si es de metal mejor que mejor, Alex de GP Racing me ha dicho que la va a intentar conseguir,es la mejor opción sin duda y tres, en espera de encontrar la pieza y por supuesto para salir del paso, este brico en el que " presumiblemente" volvemos a habilitar el macho del conector roto, que es lo que siempre se parte.
Aquí tenemos la situación de origen.

La parte macho la extraemos sin problemas del receptor hembra.

Aquí esta extraida.

Nuestro objetivo va a ser recomponer el macho del.conector poniendo dentro un tubito de aluminio, en este caso vamos a utilizar un remache, que deberá ser del máximo grosor posible siempre que quepa " dentro" del agujero del conector macho roto, en las fotos lo apreciaremos mejor.
Aquí esta el remache seleccionado.

Lo cortamos teniendo en cuenta la medida del conector macho.

Aquí apreciamos que es hueco, y claro,lo que estais pensando, que es de menos grosor y habrá menos caudal, pues si, ese es el misterio que resolveremos cuando probemos el bicho, " se supone" que no pasará nada...se supone jaja.

Bien, antes de ponerle el "nural 21" que es el producto de soldadura que utilizaremos, lijamos levemente la punta que irá dentro del conector para que agarre mejor la mezcla del producto.


Procedemos a la mezcla del nural 21.


Y lo ponemos alrededor del tubito

Y lo introducimos dentro del conector roto que permanece en el depósito,pero cuidado, no hasta el fondo,porque sino,el tubito podría interrumpir la salida normal del combustible, para ello limpiamos bien con aire a presión el interior del conector, lo ponemos dentro con las manos y le damos sutilmente unos golpecitos con un martillo.


Le ponemos otro poquito de nural 21, esta vez en la parte que queda fuera y en la que introduciremos la parte macho del conector roto.


Y aquí viene la gracia del brico, necesitamos la parte rota macho del conector de origen, para que podamos insertarlo en la hembra del tubo original, como ha sido rotura limpia,encajamos las partes rotas,ahí vamos.


Esto ya va cogiendo forma, mirad el tubito dentro, padre nuestro danos el caudal necesario

Le pones un poco más de producto y perfilas con el dedo, cuidando de no hacer pegotes,porque sino no encajará bien dentro de la hembra.
Tienes 40 minutos para poder trabajar con la mezcla, tiempo más que suficiente y esperar 12 horas para el secado, tiempo más que desesperante para probar el invento.
Y asi nos queda definitivamente.




Y bien compañeros, eso es todo, a esperar la prueba y a buscar la pieza, si es de metal mejor que mejor, un abrazo.




www.mv-agusta.es using motorcycle app.
 

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Good temporary fix Jorge,it may restrict the fuel flow though,just try it and see.
 

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Just called John Guest USA

the red fitting is sold in Italy

and naturally they don't make metal ones:wtf::wtf:

Magneti-Marelli makes metal 45 degree fittings....I don't know the diameter of the red plastic where it plugs into the pump plate

the metal M/M ones on 1st Gen bikes are 11.8mm

that maybe another fix
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just called John Guest USA

the red fitting is sold in Italy

and naturally they don't make metal ones:wtf::wtf:

Magneti-Marelli makes metal 45 degree fittings....I don't know the diameter of the red plastic where it plugs into the pump plate

the metal M/M ones on 1st Gen bikes are 11.8mm

that maybe another fix
Thanks Noel.
red fitting is sold in Italy ???
Do you know where?
I'm going to remove fuel and remove the pump for see better red fitting, This piece is in pressure will not screwed, like first gen.
I've send email to Alex, he thinks that red piece go screwed and I think that is by pressure.

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Hi.., looking at your thread and judging from your photos..,you can see the little 'flat' on the bottom edge of the broken red fitting?...this rests against the 'raised' metal section where it locates into the plate.

From this it is obvious that it does not screw into the plate (because it cannot be rotated)....therefore I am of the opinion it is fitted into the plate by pressure (not threaded).
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi.., looking at your thread and judging from your photos..,you can see the little 'flat' on the bottom edge of the broken red fitting?...this rests against the 'raised' metal section where it locates into the plate.

From this it is obvious that it does not screw into the plate (because it cannot be rotated)....therefore I am of the opinion it is fitted into the plate by pressure (not threaded).
Brian
Yes I think so.

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Jorge,from reading a previous thread the red fitting clips into the pump plate with one-way clips.You cannot remove the fitting without breaking it up in pieces.The best way is to drill and tap the pump plate to 3/8NPT and fit an elbow as pictured below,then attach a hose from the new fitting to the fuel rail,then in the future dissconnect the hose at the fuel rail.Noel has fitted this elbow for another forum member Timber29.

brassfitting8.jpg
 

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Brian & Jorge;
I believe the fitting is pushed in and cross pinned with a roll pin like on 1st Gen fuel rails, I never saw the fitting it had been destroyed

the guy I talked to at John Guest USA found that the red ones were sold in Italy on his computer, forgot to ask for a part number
unfortunately they don't make metal ones only plastic

Jorge;
try calling or emailing John Guest in Europe and ask for a distributor or dealer

MV or who ever made the fuel plates bought the fittings somewhere
 

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sizes?

Mitch;
its 1/4" NPT, tap drill size 0.4375" or 11.2 mm

3/8" NPT is too big, tap drill size 0.578" or 14.68mm

Jorge;
if Alex gets the CPC valved 90 degree metal male fitting with 1/4" male NPT threads you can tap the fuel pump plate and screw the fitting in with Teflon tape on it
and a metal female fitting with a hose barb on it

then you will be able to remove the fuel tank without dumping gas all over

just like on a 1st Gen bike

:drummer:
 
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