MV Agusta Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am new to the MV owners club, and have yet to pick up my new Senna (paid for, but have to make my way to the dealer next weekend).

I have read quite a bit online as to the best way to break in a new engine (to ensure the tightest piston ring seal), and the advise seems to be that using petroleum oil is the way to go. Apparently the MV's come with full-synth from day 1.

They have to drain the oil on my bike to install the GP-Shift kit anyway, and I am leaning towards having them put back real petroleum when they do so.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
Speed, first welcome to the forum and congrats on the new bike. If you've never ridden an MV before, be prepared to fall in love! The bikes get run in at the factory, but it's debatable whether the rings are seated during that run-in. So, to answer your question, it certainly won't hurt to swap out the synthetic. Until recently, I used to adhere strictly to manufacturers recs, however, now I run the bikes hard from the start without actually redlining it. After 50 miles with the petroleum based oil, switch to synthetic. Also, do yourself a favor and avoid the temptation to break it in now on the salt laden NYC streets!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Yet another Senna congratulation. :yo:

I personally just ride the bike how sport bike suppose to be ridden and do the oil/filter change around 120-170 miles. Next oil change will be at 600 miles service anyways.

Ride on and enjoy. :guitarist
 

·
King of the Sink
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
Go SpeedRacer, go! :)

Welcome to the forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Wow - hey, thanks to all for the warm welcome. I am definitely glad to be a part of the MV community, and having only ridden Japanese sportbikes before I am brimming with excitement to take the Senna out for a whip.

Rockethouse - thanks for the link to the search results. 1000 pardons for being a complete n00b and not searching the archives for my exact question before starting a thread from the Dept of Redundancy Dept. :)

I am thinking of racing back from the dealer on mineral (100 miles), then changing the oil/filter, and putting in semi-synth, the going full synth at the first service. Seems to be a reasonable compromise on this issue.

As for drmasis' comment on the salty roads, is it naive to think that I can give in to the temptation of riding and spare any corrosion simply by washing down the bike after each run?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
Good purchase, you will love it. Me, I just follow what the manufacturer states, they are the experts after all....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,291 Posts
There was a thread on here a couple months back wehen somebody took a tour of the MV factory. He showed scans of the engine build sheet and the fact that they broke in the motor on the stand. So, in all honesty, even though it says in the manual to take it easy for the first 600 miles, it's all legal jargon and extremely moot, as the motor has already been flogged to redline and back several times....if anything, it's to scrub in your tires and bed your brakes. But all that can take place in less than 5 miles...

Read the 1st post on the first link...

http://mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4049&highlight=factory+visit

and

http://mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4060&highlight=factory+visit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,839 Posts
You're welcome and it's no drama, my 2 cents, personally I would just stick with the synthetic as mentioned above the engines are pretty much done with by the time you get the bike and I'd go with what they reccomend...they're the experts.

Another question to ask is if you do go ahead and change the oil could this affect your warranty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,839 Posts
You're welcome and it's no drama, my 2 cents, personally I would just stick with the synthetic as mentioned above the engines are pretty much done with by the time you get the bike and I'd go with what they reccomend...they are the experts.

Another question to ask is if you do go ahead and change the oil could this affect your warranty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,695 Posts
Kinda new here as well, but if you just dropped 30 large on a bike, why wouldn't you follow (to the letter) the instructions in the owners manual? It would really suck to have an issue with the motor a few months from now and have the dealer tell you you voided the warranty by using non synthetic.

CAG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,536 Posts
loading of rings and heat cycles.....thats what will do it....
how to load rings to seat them..
after up to operating temp...run bike hard in 2 or 3 rd gear to close to redline, close throttle and let slow down by itself...do this a three or four times and rings will seat...

a couple heat cycles later will do the final job.


Just dont run it 100 miles back, unless you plan to vary your engine speed alot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
Tom Kipp Sr. runs a business making pistons and big bore kits for motorcycles (Wiseco). About ten years ago he measured blow-by volume in the crankcase while running in on the dyno (the blow-by volume was an indication of ring sealing). Kevin Cameron wrote about it; "after 20 hard pulls on the dyno, the blow-by volume reduced by about half and that seems to be it."

I wouldn't use dino oil, synthetics will break in fine as long as you put some pressure to the rings. At the same I want the best lubrication possible everywhere else.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top