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Just make sure that the engines is warmed up properley then ride it like you would normally pretty much. Don't do too many high speed motorway / freeway miles though if possible as you need to keep varying the revs taking them up high then down to around 4000rpm and then high again.
The main thing to remember is whatever you do don't labour the engine in top gear at low revs.
You have to be mechanically sensitive with your bike but not so cautious that you ride around for 3 weeks never exceeding 5000rpm or 50mph!! :f4:

Hope that helps
 

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Just make sure that the engines is warmed up properley then ride it like you would normally pretty much. Don't do too many high speed motorway / freeway miles though if possible as you need to keep varying the revs taking them up high then down to around 4000rpm and then high again.
The main thing to remember is whatever you do don't labour the engine in top gear at low revs.
You have to be mechanically sensitive with your bike but not so cautious that you ride around for 3 weeks never exceeding 5000rpm or 50mph!! :f4:

Hope that helps

Also big, big big thing to remember CHANGE THE OIL EARLY

I reccomend changing the oil around 60 miles and definitely before you've done 100 miles and again at 200 miles then stick to the normal oil change schedule
 

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reptile said:
Just make sure that the engines is warmed up properley then ride it like you would normally pretty much. Don't do too many high speed motorway / freeway miles though if possible as you need to keep varying the revs taking them up high then down to around 4000rpm and then high again.
The main thing to remember is whatever you do don't labour the engine in top gear at low revs.
You have to be mechanically sensitive with your bike but not so cautious that you ride around for 3 weeks never exceeding 5000rpm or 50mph!! :f4:

Hope that helps
Instead, why don't you follow the run-in procedure in the manual? It's fairly detailed as to what you need to do. Above is in some contrast to what the manual states. Limit your rpms to 5500 for the first 300 Kms, then no more than 8000 up to 600 Kms, then no more than 10,000 at the point of the first service. Do vary the rpms, and don't lug the motor or use full throttle. I just finished my run-in today. Goes in tomorrow for RG3 slip ons plus midpipe, and race ECU!
 

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to do it by the book is wat to hard

Just try and vary the rpms and not run them at full.These bikes are made to rev and rev they will do.
 

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One more IMPORTANT point.
Avoid traffic jam (city ride) and do not over heat your engine. It is very easy with the 312 when it is new.

For now and the future I suggest you the Aluminium fan blades from MUZZYS.
Enjoy your bike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank ya all!!! Just gotta wait 2 more weeks until the bike passes emissions since it's the 1st 312 here. Can't wait!!!
 

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I did several heat cycles per day.. heat it up... cool it down... ride.. ride... ride..

Changed the oil at 100 miles then again at 600.

-W
 

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What's this change the oil at 60-100 miles for? Never heard of it for anything else before? Did people find marbles in the oil during the first 100 miles?
 

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factory oil, lots of little medal particles floating around and you want to get them out of there around 100 miles. You really don't know how long the oil has been in there.

-W
 

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The factory runs the crap out of them before they're even attatched to a frame. There was a post on here SHOWING THE ENGINE TEST CHECK SHEET, and it had it sitting at like 11K rpm for a minute as one of the check points.

Here's ONE of the posts about the engine break-in:
http://mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4049&highlight=factory

I can't find the one with the scan/pic of the engine checklist, but I remember seeing it posted on here.

Your motor is broken in before it even reaches touches the frame. The manual is for liability issues. If something breaks, and you're going 100MPH, it's an out for corporate to say "you didn't follow the manuals break-in procedure" for having a manufacture fault/defect. There's no reason for them to tell you to "take it easy" when they beat the crap out of it on an engine stand for 20 minutes....20 minutes is a LOOOOOONG time.
 

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oicdn said:
The factory runs the crap out of them before they're even attatched to a frame. There was a post on here SHOWING THE ENGINE TEST CHECK SHEET, and it had it sitting at like 11K rpm for a minute as one of the check points.

Here's ONE of the posts about the engine break-in:
http://mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4049&highlight=factory

I can't find the one with the scan/pic of the engine checklist, but I remember seeing it posted on here.

Your motor is broken in before it even reaches touches the frame. The manual is for liability issues. If something breaks, and you're going 100MPH, it's an out for corporate to say "you didn't follow the manuals break-in procedure" for having a manufacture fault/defect. There's no reason for them to tell you to "take it easy" when they beat the crap out of it on an engine stand for 20 minutes....20 minutes is a LOOOOOONG time.
We can not say that the engine is broken in at the factory.
All MV Agusta engine are tested on a engine test bench, yes.
It is to verify that the engine runs properly before to fit it into the frame. After that, all the bikes are tested on a bench to test the whole bike.

Your comments about warranty ..."you didn't follow the manual"... What are you talking about ???
We are talking about street bike and if you want to have free parts and free labour during two years, you just have to follow the manual for break in, for service and not to race the bike. Is it a so heavy price to get the warranty !
You dealer has also some responsibilities concerning warranties.
If the bike race, it is not used in normal conditions anymore, no warranty. LOGICAL !!!

Has a motocross bike warranty ???? ..... no
Why ? >>> Not used in normal condition (race)
 

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Balls said:
Instead, why don't you follow the run-in procedure in the manual? It's fairly detailed as to what you need to do. Above is in some contrast to what the manual states. Limit your rpms to 5500 for the first 300 Kms, then no more than 8000 up to 600 Kms, then no more than 10,000 at the point of the first service. Do vary the rpms, and don't lug the motor or use full throttle. I just finished my run-in today. Goes in tomorrow for RG3 slip ons plus midpipe, and race ECU!
The manual says for you to run the engine in this way for the same reason that Macdonalds coffee carry's a warning telling you that it's hot and all the other nonsense. It's an idiots guide for stupid people.

You are not likely to destroy your bike if you follow the procedure in the manual, however you also will not optimise your bikes potential either. Run it in slow and the bike will be slow

It's a lot easier to get it wrong doing what I said as you have to know what you're doing and be able to have a feel for what the engine is doing. Most people have though some people don't.

Changing the oil early is very imprtant to get all the metal fillings out as soon as possible before they can cause damage and get clean oil into the bike.There's normally a lot of initial wear in the first 500 or so miles especially if you run the engine hard at times as I suggested.
 

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reptile said:
.....It's an idiots guide for stupid people..
.... written by lawyers and bean counters.

My favorite answer to those that think there is ANY engineering input to manufacturer's manual break-in guidance is to point to Kawasaki -

Whether the bike is a 1 cylinder KLR650 that redlines at 7,000 rpm, a 2 cylinder Vulcan that redlines at 6,000 rpm, or a 4 cylinder ZX-6 that redlines at 14,500 rpm ALL Kawasaki's come with the same manual recommendation and same warning sticker!!!!!

Do not exceed 4,000 RPM for the first 500 miles. :blah: :blah: :blah:

With the ZX-6 that's darn near lugging; perhaps the worst thing you can do during break-in. :bash:

Tom
Gainesville, Mo.
Weeki Wachee, Fl.
 

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reptile said:
The manual says for you to run the engine in this way for the same reason that Macdonalds coffee carry's a warning telling you that it's hot and all the other nonsense. It's an idiots guide for stupid people.

You are not likely to destroy your bike if you follow the procedure in the manual, however you also will not optimise your bikes potential either. Run it in slow and the bike will be slow

It's a lot easier to get it wrong doing what I said as you have to know what you're doing and be able to have a feel for what the engine is doing. Most people have though some people don't.

Changing the oil early is very imprtant to get all the metal fillings out as soon as possible before they can cause damage and get clean oil into the bike.There's normally a lot of initial wear in the first 500 or so miles especially if you run the engine hard at times as I suggested.


It's an idiots guide for stupid people
You don't know to who you are talking !!!

Run it in slow and the bike will be slow
Any technical explanation for this ???



I suggest you to take it more easy before you insult anyone. Also, you didn't wrote anything helpfull :yo: :blah:

Stupid French guy :yo: :jsm: I am French also :banghead:
 

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reptile said:
Run it in slow and the bike will be slow

You are right on the money, the factory manual was written for morons and insurance companies. If you dont feel the motor out and let the rods stretch durning break in, you are going to end up with a pig. Consider yourself lucky to get this information, lots of engine builders keep this stuff secret.

Granted this is my first MV, but I have owned and built my fair share of high performance Harley motors (I know this is an oxymoron, but bear with me :)). You can build 2 identical motors, break one in the "factory suggested" way, and one the "I plan on going fast/racer" way and the factroy style break in will run like a bag of shit compared to the other.

This "opinion" comes form experience, from personally riding and flogging multiple motorcycles that have been broken in different ways.

I wonder if any of you who are standing up for the factory recommendations have this experience? Have you ridden two identical motorcycles, that have been broken in differently, and felt the difference in performance?

Its simple, be easy on it for the first 50 to 100 miles, DO NOT LUG THE ENGINE, and dump the oil immediatly afterward. I dump mine and change the filter 3 times before I get to 500 miles, its a bit excessive but it cant hurt. After your first 100, the bearing surfaces and transmission will be for the most part broken in. Now, start to twist the motor, under load, to where it feels comfortable, you will notice when it starts to strain. Continue to do this and that "strain point", or resistance, will start to come in at a higher and higher RPM. THIS is the engine effectively breaking in. You connecting rods are stretching, and everything in the engine is making nice with each other, im not an engineer and cant explain the technical details, but if you have done this before you know what I'm talking about. Continue like this for however long it takes (basically till that resistance point is as high as possible in the rpm range), and eventually you will have a fire breathing animal, that pulls strong, hard and smooth to and from any rpm.
 

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Some Guy said:
....and let the rods stretch durning break in,.......
I don't know about rod stretch .......First I EVER heard that one and I have done some research on the matter; perhaps not enough. :)

There are 2 critical things being done during break-in; seating rings and polishing/ setting moving parts. Setting moving parts is no longet as critical as it was in the past when manufacturing tolerances weren't tight; not really critical now - Just no full throttle for extended periods and vary engine speeds and loads.

Seating rings is the critical part and most experts agree it happens VERY early and the window for setting them is also short. Most agree ring setting is going to be done in the first 30 miles and the rings are completely set by 50 miles. After that the cylinder wall and rings have a glaze that won't allow further setting. This is why the bike will run better if you get as many higher RPM cycles in very early on with compression fairly high - this WON'T happen if you religously hold the RPM's in the lower half of the power band during the entire break-in period.

Do your own Google research; there's plenty of information out there - you be the judge whether it's engineer type discussion or of the "my rocket wrench once said" type. :ahhh:

Good reading on the subject:

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm



Tom
Gainesville, Mo.
Weeki Wachee, Fl.
 
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