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After clicking on the you tube link, scroll down 5 videos. There is a white and silver with a black frame f3. It looks pretty damn good in this color combo. Wonder why they didn't run this in production.
 

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I'm Pretty sure ALL the Bikes get a good Romp thru the gears on Stationary rollers, straight after Assembly.
I'm not sure what you saw (heard?) as being a problem, as long as there is some heat in the motor.
the Motors all ready been run-in a bit before it ever gets to the dealer.
 

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I'm Pretty sure ALL the Bikes get a good Romp thru the gears on Stationary rollers, straight after Assembly.
I'm not sure what you saw (heard?) as being a problem, as long as there is some heat in the motor.
the Motors all ready been run-in a bit before it ever gets to the dealer.
Yes I understand the same thing but I am never sure of what is actually the right thing to do with a new bike, so I read the manual & follow its recommendations religiously then if there's a problem I can flick it back to the dealer with a clear conscience.

Any of the F3 owners able to tell us what the manual directs for the run in period?
 

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I can't see how revving a new bike a couple of times when new is so bad, if you stood there and revved it to get some red pipes going I'd say you were an idiot for sure. But I think if a new bike can't at least be revved once or twice then they can keep it.
I know running a bike under load is better than idling or revving while not under load etc.
And I have nothing against running a bike in too, but I do believe you need to give it a bit of stick now and again, for short bursts at least, for various reasons.
 

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Yes I understand the same thing but I am never sure of what is actually the right thing to do with a new bike, so I read the manual & follow its recommendations religiously then if there's a problem I can flick it back to the dealer with a clear conscience.

Any of the F3 owners able to tell us what the manual directs for the run in period?
I think there's another post that has this information, but this is out of the User's Manual:

0-500km 5500-6000rpm Max
500-1000km 8000-9000rpm Max
1000-2500km 11000 Max
 

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First 100 miles take it below 8000rpm,then........well whats the rev limiter for? give it shit.

Done all my bikes like that,never done them any harm.
 

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I can't see how revving a new bike a couple of times when new is so bad, if you stood there and revved it to get some red pipes going I'd say you were an idiot for sure. But I think if a new bike can't at least be revved once or twice then they can keep it.
I know running a bike under load is better than idling or revving while not under load etc.
And I have nothing against running a bike in too, but I do believe you need to give it a bit of stick now and again, for short bursts at least, for various reasons.
+1, what I was trying to say without upsetting a few and starting a bitch fight. :naughty:

Who care's anyway, their money, they can do what they want to it.

Sounds feckin' gorgeous btw :mouthwate
 

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I think there's another post that has this information, but this is out of the User's Manual:

0-500km 5500-6000rpm Max
500-1000km 8000-9000rpm Max
1000-2500km 11000 Max
I think that is plain excessive in my opinion. That would take Years for some fellows before they could try to wring it out.
And I can not imagine new owners will just roll around getting passed by trucks and tractors.
I would obey the manuals recommendations as guide line if Your are not on the hunt, but I would give it a go occassionally.
Just don't forget this engines were all at the test bench and got reved numerous times to the max, before implanted into the frame.
 

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It doesn't do the bike any good to tootle along to them recommendations
Couple hundred miles is more than enough, keeping it under 10k. Just don't be stupid with it. The engines been 'broke in' on test bed at factory, just needs a run in to allow pistons, rings, liners, bearings, valves, gears etc to mate further.
Allows any abnormalities from manufactoring process to be fettled out, which is puropse of that first early oil service.

Most engines are designed to run at 85% load plus.
This way the correct oil and coolant temps are achieved
 

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Good work Dean

Anyone heard of this?
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

In the car scene, very well known to me by dyno tuners/engine builders sear by it. Its no secret and has been done for years and years.
I've had this explained to me quite a few times, but have never seen it in writing, makes sence then why they run them up hard in the factory.
 

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Torn

Anyone heard of this?
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

In the car scene, very well known to me by dyno tuners/engine builders sear by it. Its no secret and has been done for years and years.
Sorry Rob, thats right...
Torn between what I want to hear DL001's post & what I know I 'should' do Zico's post (thanks Zico).

I must say I have always followed the instructions & never had a single problem with my cars or bikes and every time I hear about these low mileage catastrophic failures, I can't help wonder whether is was due to poor running in - quite the conundrum.

Having said that - when I bought my Katana as a 21 yo my idea of running in was hitting redline at every available opportunity (including leaving the dealer's driveway) and in every gear if possible - had that bike for 9 -10 years and it was an absolute charm - actually the money they are bringing at the moment I wish I still had it - think I digressed, good way to distract myself from that 11K limit :eek: :laughing:
 

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I remember a few years ago, one of the bike mags did an experiment with fire bl*des,one was run in by the book and the other thrashed from new. After a couple thousand miles, both were put on a dyno and the one that was run in correctly had less power.
There was also a pattern emerged from the race tuners, that bikes that were not run in, were all up in power on the dyno compared to street or correctly run in bikes.

*disclaimer*
I believe in the above process as, that is the way i (don't) run in my bikes,what you do with your own piece of MOTORCYCLE ART is up to you.

Not following the manual might invalidatate your warrenty.
 

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Break in is more for transmission componets than anything else. I've always pulled away from the dealer, made like 500 shifts without puting a bog down load on the motor. By the time I have put 250 miles on them they were singing a beautiful tune. Never had a issue. Look at it this way, for example if you only run 10,000 RPM that's per minute. If you do that for 1 hour that bitch has made 600,000. Strokes. I believe everthing is seated and mated in 600,000 strokes.
 
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