MV Agusta Forum banner

81 - 100 of 100 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #81
O/Y goes directly to the ECU. I had assumed that the ECU was actually grounding the start signal from the solenoid. I can verify that I have the ECU grounded properly, and all other grounds on the bike are connected.

Does this mean the ECU isn't reacting to the start signal? Which would cause suspicion of the ECU being faulty?

I am ordering a MicroTec from Chris at X-bikes today if everything goes through with my bank. I know I want it to replace the Power Commander, and I hear it helps with overheating/fans, etc. I'm still not sold on the ECU being the problem, but we are narrowing it down to the ECU.

How would I perform the voltage drop test on the ECU?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,403 Posts
I would first check the function of the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR:

1.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
I was thinking about the CPS yesterday too, but thought that it would only kill the spark. However, as you showed above, the manual specifies the injection system wont work either.

Since the form wave is only created when the teeth are moving past the CPS, how would one go about testing the CPS for a fault?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,403 Posts
It has to be a magnetic coil pickup. I would just test for continuity.

1.jpg

Continuity should exist from 1 to 2.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,812 Posts
Should see around a volt or more (no spec from MV...a small voltage anyway) using a peak reading voltmeter measure between the 2 CKPS wires while engine is turning...

But your problem is the starter never turns the engine, the relay never energizes, right?? (unless you manually jump it).

So the O/Y wire goes to the ECU? Then the other wire is battery voltage. Disconnected from the relay, with key on, you should see battery voltage there.
Plugged into the relay, you see it on the O/Y wire, so the relay primary winding is continuous.
Now go check voltage on the O/Y at the ECU...if it there the wire is continuous, and the ECU is not grounding the circuit to turn the relay on.

Why isn't the ECU grounding the relay O/Y wire? that is the question. Must check all the inputs to the ECU needed for it to decide to ground the relay (side stand switch, neutral switch, starter button, etc etc.)

All those inputs are correct? ECU is bad.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,403 Posts
Blue/Yellow is indeed 12vdc from the General Feed Relay by way of FUSE 1. From the General Feed RElay to the fuse is Orange/Green, out of the fuse is Blue/Yellow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
Why isn't the ECU grounding the relay O/Y wire? that is the question. Must check all the inputs to the ECU needed for it to decide to ground the relay (side stand switch, neutral switch, starter button, etc etc.)

All those inputs are correct? ECU is bad.
I have verified that the side stand actuates the dash light, as well as the neutral switch. I know the switches are good, do you guys think it's worth it to trace the wires back to the ecu if possible? The kill switch/starter buttons appear to be good as well. I have no latch relay (earlier models) and I'm not sure anything else would act as a kill switch. I've had bad CPSs on my cars and the car still cranks, just won't fire. I'm willing to test any sensor/switch at this point, so I'll test the CPS for continuity.

Anyone care to disconnect their CPS (if possible) and see if their bike cranks lol?:grin2:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,812 Posts
Find the O/Y wire in the ECU connector. Back probe it for battery voltage. Jump back probe to ground. Relay engages-starter cranks? ECU isn't doing its job.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,403 Posts
Since it is the starter that is not turning.....Have you followed this?

3.jpg

1.jpg

2.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
That page 26 diagram has kind of been my outline this whole time. The last thing I needed to check was the starter relay. Not sure what it means when it says "Check starter relay" then "correct" and "incorrect" but I have verified the starter relay is good.

I think I'm beginning to understand what I've done at this point. I've been thinking the whole event over the past few days. I'll recap just to get my facts straight:

- I went to hook up the new battery in the bike, and hooked up only one of the grounds for the bike, not both.
- I then tapped the screw driver to the frame of the bike when screwing in the positive lead of the battery, fairly big spark
- I cursed a whole bunch but got the battery "installed" (with the 2nd ground still not attached).
- I attempted to turn it on and that's when I had the buzzing noise from the General Feed relay.
- I then flipped my fan switch, that's jumped the fan relay's Bk/W wire to the ground. The fans struggled to come on and that's when I heard the pop from the rear of the bike.

Then I started this thread.

What I believe happened at this point is: Since one of the main grounds wasn't attached, the ECU couldn't ground itself properly, as evidenced by the buzzing of the GF relay. Then, in turning on my fan switch, I provided a new ground to the ECU through the Bk/W wire. This normally wouldn't be a problem as the Bk/W wire normally grounds when the ECU turns the fan on, but this provided a convenient way for trapped electricity to escape through a path that wasn't meant for it. I'm guessing something arced in the ECU or a capacitor blew from overload.

Does this make sense? Or am I crazy lol.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,403 Posts
Even if it makes sense, you are crazy.....:stickpoke:ahhh::ahhh::ahhh::smoking:

Let me run through that scenario for a bit and i'll let you know what I think.

Ed will probably chime in too...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
Well, I won't argue lol. I was just so excited to ride, and I didn't just slow down and do things proper. I've learned a pretty valuable and expensive lesson haha.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,812 Posts
Your alternate ground path for 12 volts going to the ECU probably did exactly what you suspect. The pop was probably a capacitor exploding....

Get that Microtec and move on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #94
MicroTec has been purchased and is on it's way. After a fairly expensive phone call to Chris :grin2:, I feel confident that this will make the MV quite a bit better.

Chris was very interested in the fairings that I have purchased for the bike as well. We're curious to see where the temps hover during summer riding with them. He said I should have it by next week.

I'm going to remove my fan switch as well. I'll program the MicroTec to have them come on earlier.

Pics of the fairings below.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,403 Posts
Keep us posted.....:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #96
MicroTec came in today! I installed it an the bike started right up! It's having trouble idling though. My wife was napping and came out to yell at me before I could hook up the laptop to look at the tune. I'll have to do that tomorrow.

I also purchased a Cordona Strain Gauge Quick Shifter with the ECU. Having some trouble figuring out how to hook it up to the MicroTec. I believe I have a specific harness for the Microtec and it appears to need some assembling. Nothing matched the included manual. I reached out to Chris, and he got back to me about sending me some documentation. He wont be back at his computer until tomorrow which is no big deal. Any insight would be appreciated. Wondering if this QS has the ability to shift up and down with the ECU. Some of the documentation hints towards that, but it's not definitive.

I'm pretty happy right now haha. I took it around the block and remembered how uncomfortable it is! Just gotta build that ass callus built back up :).

I'll be reaching out to a few of you for helping me. I really appreciate all you guys have done to get this bike running again.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,403 Posts
Very glad she’s running! You can probably have that 5SM repaired.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,812 Posts
You must set the TPS first .... I am sure Chris sent the directions. After that the idle tune is next step... fuel trim and advance need to be set so YOUR bike idles happily.

Chris' tune, as delivered to you, is for another bike in another atmosphere (altitude, humidity, ambient temp). Hopefully he sent you the videos that demonstrate how to do these things....

Once the TPS and idle trim is set she should run and idle better than you have ever experienced before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
@esq'z me I thought that might be what I was running up against. Unfortunately, Chris and I had some issues with the shipping process, and the instructions haven't been sent yet. He said he should be able to get them to me tonight. I've done a fair amount of googling and haven't found much on the process. I do have the software and the USB -> CAN adapter so I can communicate with the ECU. If you have the instructions by chance, my email is [email protected].

I haven't been able to hook up the computer to the ECU while the bike is running yet. I'll probably get to that today. Chris said he could help me dial in the ECU as best as he is able, but the optimum results would be going to a dyno. I will probably start looking for a reputable dyno shop in the area
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,812 Posts
@whobeyou I have a couple of videos Chris made about setting TPS and basic tuning....too big for email. I will see about putting them in my DropBox and send you a link.

I think I have the written instructions...will email those to you.

You set the TPS without the engine running. It may be all you need to do. The good news is that you can screw around with the mapping and...as long as you have a copy of the original...you can't screw it up. When you get lost you just reload the original....or the map you last had that ran good, and start again.

Every time you make changes (mapping or Configuration) you should save them as a new file so you can back up however many steps you need if it all goes to hell.

If you are looking for a dyno guy to make changes you should confirm he knows just what he is working with. Microtec and PowerCommander-ECU Tune-etc are very different animals.
 
81 - 100 of 100 Posts
Top