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Reading that again...it is true that the start signal goes through the dash.
 

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That 7 indicates you, in fact, have a 2007 built bike. I suppose they could have carried over a 2006 harness.

OR...the 2007 electrical drawing is wrong.
US market bikes are a year behind other markets....My 910R is a uS 2008 model (VIN confirms) but was a 2007 in Europe, etc.

So that may help explain???
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well, I've traced back to everything I could. I'm not the best with electrical diagrams, but I followed everything to the best of my ability. No fuses have been popped at all, and I can't see any burnt wiring/corroded connections. I'm stumped. I think I'm going to try and swap the battery for a known good one(maybe I killed a cell?), and after that maybe start trying to find an ECU.

Thoughts?
 

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@whobeyou: Please list the concise symptoms you currently have with 1. Key off 2. Key on 3. Start button pressed
 

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It was the solenoid ..

Back to resurrect the "starter" thread..


The starting problem I had was indeed a faulty starter solenoid -- Root cause was something else though. Apparently the 40AMP fuse had been badly seated in the fuse holder part on the solenoid, causing it to warm up and melt the plastics around it .. I bought a new Yamaha part (>:)) and the problem was solved.


My question now is: The original main fuse on my 750SR seems to have been a Pink 35Amp fuse ? Never seen one of those before :smile2: - At least that was what was in the spare fuse holder, in the live holder was a red 40AMP - The plastic on the fuse was almost completely melted, but the fuse was not blown :surprise:


The Yam Solenoid came with 30AMP Green fuses .. I put the 35AMP one in, bike seems to run just fine with that..0:)


Question now is: Which one is the correct size Fuse for my SR? -- 30-35 or 40AMPS ?? Not much info in the manuals I have .. . "Replace fuse with the correct value"
 

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Discussion Starter #27
@silentservice703, Now when I turn the bike on, the Neutral, Battery, and Oil lights remain on, no activity on Tac or Speedo, no headlight/tail-light. The General Feed relay buzzes the whole time as well.
 

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@whobeyou: What is the voltage in the system at the time of KEY ON?
 

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@DKDravis: 40 amps is correct.

1.jpg

I'd clean all of the electrical contact points for the solenoid and ensure tight connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Sorry for the late reply. Going through some personal things at the moment.

I just got the bike back from Fay Myers yesterday. They let me know that I didn't have a ground hooked up on the battery. I'm not really sure how I could miss something like that, but the bike is now responding. The technician there (who seemed very knowledgeable about the F4 in particular as he has 2 of them) told me his bike had done the exact same thing and it was the diode.

The Symptoms:
I turn the key on, and everything sounds like it's working. I hear the fuel pump, and the tac needle goes all the way up, and back down. I can now read the mileage and whatnot also. However when I push the start button, nothing. I've checked that the bike was in neutral and I'm holding the clutch while trying.

I've charged the battery overnight just to be sure, and nothing still. I had the wife come hold the clutch and I've jumped the starter relay. The bike turns over, but does not start. Thus the starter seems to be OK. I'm not hearing any clicking or anything from the starter relay when pressing the start button. Both 40A fuses on starter test OK.

From what I've been reading, I thought that when you have a blown diode, your bike wont light up at all. Correct me if I'm wrong though. I'm going to order some of the diodes tomorrow and will switch it out just to be sure. Let me know if I'm completely off base about the blown diode symptoms :)
 

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No, you are not. Diodes are cheap and readily available at any electronic supply store....even Radio Shack (maybe).
 

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The last diode I bought was at a Car Audio Shop. Of course, an electronics shop is best if you have one nearby.

A couple of things: Missing a ground is a common occurrence as people do not have attention to detail nor do they look at the manual when "simply" hooking up a battery. This has caused many problems.

I can assume you are not reading through a manual in detail to perform your trouble shooting or testing as you would then know that only one of the fuses at the start solenoid is in the circuit. The other is a spare to be used on the road if you blow the main fuse.

Electronics troubles can be niggling and it takes a detailed approach to sort them out.

Test your diode.
 

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You burned some fuses or relays, but you could have burn the ecu too, on bike is very dangerouse to make happens a short circuit.
More probabily is some relay that you have burned but..
 

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@misty5: Please stop with the conjecture. That last bit of advice is annoying, incomplete and frankly useless. Provide a diagnostic path to your "conclusion".
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Thanks everyone for the quick replies!

Unfortunately, all RadioShacks have been closed in my state :(. I can order a pack of the diodes online today.
@silentservice703, I am using the manual to go through the bike, but I'm a bit new at diagnosing electrical issues. There's a bit in there that I want to test, but I'm not really sure what the manual is telling me to do. It's starting on Page 24 in section E (page 180 of the PDF), I'm not the best with electrical diagrams, and I'm not sure what it's telling me to do to test the starter system.

I do have a volt meter and am watching videos on testing stuff like this on other bikes, but just want to make sure I'm getting things right.
 

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That diagram has the wrong ECU

1.jpg
 

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Use this

1.jpg
 
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