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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've done quite a bit of searching, and I haven't found anyone who did exactly what I did. Different symptoms.

2007 F4 1000R

When installing my new battery, my hand slipped and I grounded the positive lead directly to the frame of the bike. It was for maybe .25 seconds, but I definitely saw a spark. When I was screwing it in, I believe the shift light was on, and when I grounded it, whatever light was on went off. I am certain the terminals are the right way, after reading on how many people messed that up.

Now when I turn the bike on, the Neutral, Battery, and Oil lights remain on, no activity on Tac or Speedo, no headlight/tail-light.

The thing that makes it confusing, there is a constant buzzing sound coming from under the tank somewhere. I can only assume it's the fuel pump trying to kick in with not enough power.

I've tested the battery with a multimeter, and it does not drop volts AT ALL (not even .01v) when I turn on the bike. I have a manual fan switch, and when I engage that, the fan tries to come on, but can barely start to spin. It feels to me a fuse must be kaput (maybe the 40amp), but why would my fuel pump be trying to engage, my fan be able to work, and the lights on the dash come on if that fuse was gone? I checked all the fuses on the right side, and they are good.

I've also removed the trickle charger leads from the battery, thinking they may not be passing enough amperage through. Curious thing was when re-installing, the battery didn't give off small "sparks" when connecting the leads like normal, and the bike didn't react at all to the battery install like the first time. Also why I'm thinking fuse, but not sure which one.

Maybe I'm missing something, flame me at will lol. :smile2::smile2:

who
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Upon further investigation, the buzzing is coming from the BtTran(?) PA66-GF30 relay that is next to the starter solenoid. I am going to assume this guy is toast and get him replaced. I'll update the thread on my progress.

Also, both 40amp fuses were OK.

The curious thing is if I manually hold the relay to "engaged" (I opened it up, and can hold the gap closed) it doesn't seem to change the symptoms. I can only assume it's not passing enough through it to activate.

I'm still open for suggestions lol.
 

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For the 2007 F4 100R, there are two relays beside the start solenoid. One is the "intermittency" (Turn Signals) and the other is the GENERAL FEED relay. The GF relay ports power to the rest of the bike. It has four wires rather than the two of the Intermittency. If you roasted that relay, the GF relay, then the bike isn't going to work.

How do you know the fuses are good? Did you test for continuity with a meter? One of the fuses at the solenoid is simply a spare.

Can we assume you have downloaded the manual and gone through the troubleshooting guide?

Is your positive terminal toward the front or back of the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I just replaced the relay with a known good one and it too is buzzing. It is from the General Feed relay. I have the old relay apart, and can manually close the circuit to force it to give power, but even then, the symptoms remain the same, just no buzzing. I may take the battery back to the shop, they had 1 other one in stock that I could try.

I haven't gone through the manual yet. I need to track down where my copy is. I'll do that tonight as I'm not sure where to go next on the bike.

I tested continuity of fuses with my meter, both were showing .08 ohms, so very close to OL. I can replace those as well if needed. Positive terminal is toward the back of the bike.
 

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One other thing...

...there are two cables that go to your negative terminal. Ensure both are connected.

1.jpg
 

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?

whobeyou;
Always install the battery, then the positive cables and THEN the negative cables......

Think about it........this way when installing the positive cables and your wrench touches the frame
nothing happens

:grin2:
 

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Noel, I thought about posting that....standard electrical practice when working on cars/bikes/boats....Ground: off first, on last.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree with both of you. Believe me, I'm kicking myself for not just taking my time. I was really excited to get her back running.

However, in this case, I'm not sure it would have mattered. I was screwing in the positive lead, and the wrench came in contact with the frame. TBH I think I may have simply just killed the battery, gonna try and swap it for another one today.

I do have both negative leads attached as well.

When I grounded the battery, I did believe I heard something pop. It was so quick, and I was also hearing the sparks, but I am 95% sure I heard another pop. I am going to check the starter relay diode today, and find all the fuses on the bike.

Just wondering, when frying the ECU, does it present symptoms like this? I found a couple online and might just order one if that's the way this thing is headed...
 

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Don't waste your time....

...looking for something that isn't there. The 2007 F4 1000R does not have the diode you seek:

1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When looking on the back of the starter relay, it appears it does have a diode. At least something in a blue plastic sheathe that bridges those two connections.

I've been fairly busy recently, but should have time this weekend to fully go through the bike with the manual.

I've attached pics of what I believe to be the diode.
 

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I believe you are correct, sir.

Although it doesn't show on the 2007 wiring diagram....one is present on the 2006 diagram:

1.jpg
 

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What is the TENTH digit of your VIN?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The tenth digit in the VIN is 7. Looking through the electrical diagrams, it appears that the positive battery lead directly connects to the starter solenoid. Is it possible to fry the solenoid without popping the 40amp fuse?
 

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Possible, yes....probable, no.
 

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That 7 indicates you, in fact, have a 2007 built bike. I suppose they could have carried over a 2006 harness.

OR...the 2007 electrical drawing is wrong.
 

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The diode in the 2006 diagram is only there to prevent back-EMF from frying the ECU electronics or starter button contacts

Relays "bounce" and this causes reversed current spikes to be present from the Relay coil. The Diode simply shorts these, and would not fry from reversing the battery polarity.

How is the starter relay connected to the starter button on a 2006/7 F4 ? Through the ECU? --
 

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Yes to the EMF reasoning.

And it appears it is a yes to the ECU controlling a signal to the start solenoid. Once all safety switches verified> ECU signal> start.
 

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Thought so -- Would the ECU controlling the Starter relay also be the case for a 2004 750SR ??-- I have an intermittent fault where sometimes when starting the bike form cold, nothing at all happens when pressing the starter button-- After several - up to ten or twenty tries the bike fires up and runs just fine .. I hear no clicks clonks or other electrical or mechanical noises -- just ominous silence until it decides to fire up--:frown2:
 

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I only have one F4 750 manual and it is in separate sections. There is no way for me to tell if it covers the SR.

Saying that, there is no readily apparent ECU connection in the diagram that I have.

Were it my bike, I would remove and clean the start solenoid. The probability is that it is a bit sticky and the magnet coil doesn't have enough EMF to draw the contacts closed.

Here is the testing procedure:

1.jpg
 
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