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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It was also time to fit the BMC air filter and the race ECU

All I can say about the ride after fitting the RACE ECU is "Wild Child" - you cant believe how it transformed the performance. :naughty: :jsm:
Anything under 3500rpm it coughed, farted and spluttered :bash: it refused to idle, while coughing black smoke, and getting it started was a mission, but once you get it above 4000rpm, no smoke, but grow teeth in your arse and hold on cos it wants to chuck you off as stretches your arms and the front wheel climbs skywards as it takes off like a scolded cat. :highclap: :crazyeyes:

But unfortunately this IS a RACE ECU so it is almost unrideable around the burbs, so I removed the Race ECU and refitted the OEM ECU :( as it is my main commuter.


1st task was to remove the tank, easy as, , , remove the seat, then the two screws from the ignition key cover, then the main tank screw and two side screws. Unclip the small plastic cover on each side. Unplug the fuel pump connector, and unclip the fuel line.

then remove the airbox, unclip the two spring clips, remove two forward screws and slide up and back off the throttle bodies.

With tank removed.


Position of ECU under back of airbox


Throttle bodies with Airbox removed


Remove the 12 screws to open the airbox
The standard oiled foam air filter


The removed cover


The BMC airfilter in place -dont forget to apply the perimeter sealing foam, and ensure the it faces front as per installation instructions


Removing the OEM ECU
Unplug the two connectors
undo the 5mm top bolt, swing it down and back, then loosen the 4 mounting screws




The RACE ECU in Place


Airbox refitted



Fitting the steering damper was easy
Remove the two allen screws holding the handlebars to the triple clamp
Remove the two hinge pins
Remove the top handlebar clamp
Install the Ohlins handlebar clamp by replacing the two hinge pins and use the Ohlins supplied cap screws (the OEM item has a lip which is now too wide) and tighten
Remove the two screws from the ignition switch cover
Install the bracket and pin to the two ignition switch cover screws use the Ohlins longer screws
Install the damper to the new handlebar clamp with the two screws provided.
Check that all six screws are tight.
Done



 

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Are you sure when the bike wit race ecu goes on a dyno and is adjusted correctly the bike can also be used as a commuter ? I don,t doubt your skills , but IMHO you need dyno time when installing a race ecu.
On mine it works fine , but that's with a full mv corse system on a 910 r.
Also when the suspension is set up correctly and you don,t race , why you need that steering damper ?
Don,t want to sound rude , just wandering ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Are you sure when the bike with race ecu goes on a dyno and is adjusted correctly the bike can also be used as a commuter ? I don,t doubt your skills , but IMHO you need dyno time when installing a race ecu.
On mine it works fine , but that's with a full mv corse system on a 910 r.
Also when the suspension is set up correctly and you don,t race , why you need that steering damper ?
Don,t want to sound rude , just wandering ?
Mine has a full Arrow system.
I was actually hoping that the ECU was going to be plug n play.
After my ride, it was also my conclusion that the ECU would require dyno time to get it running sweetly, but unfortunately this bike is (according to stealer) the 1st Brutale in South Africa, (although the F4 has been around here a while) so this means that none of the local tuning houses will have either the equipment (plugs) or the experience to dyno tune the Brutale ECU, so I will wait a while, speak with the tuning shops and then I'll make another call on refitting the Race ECU.

Damper - At speeds above 180kph, I get a bit of weave, it feels like it is generated by wind and crosswinds buffeting inbetween my chest and arms, then transferred to the bars, I am hoping that by fitting the damper it will solve this, the jury is still out, but I'll inform either way, better or not.

I fitted a steering damper to my KTM 990 SMT it is by far the best and most beneficial accessory that I have fitted to this bike, I'm still looking for one for the Duc Multi 1200
 

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I've done all of this plus 3pages more. Race ecu needs race exhaust. Did u do this w stock exhaust? If so, of course it ran like garbage. It was designed for an unrestricted system. Mine is beautiful. I also added the power commander V also. Steering damper is fine but it is far from the best thing you can do. Performance upgrades can't be a little here and a little there and expect something great. It is all or nothing. It all works together. I have every MV Corse part from the chain and sprockets to the bodywork. The race ecu is fine. Something else was wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Race ecu needs race exhaust. It was designed for an unrestricted system. Mine is beautiful. I also added the power commander V also. Performance upgrades can't be a little here and a little there and expect something great. It is all or nothing. It all works together. The race ecu is fine. Something else was wrong.
Full Arrow System with db killer removed, BMC air flter, , ,
 

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hello brut920
i have a similar set up as you
so far i have
arrow full system
bmc air filter
she is going to X-bike on tuesday to fit a microtec ecu and dyno mapping.
ohlins steering damper
also just received bst carbon wheels.
regards
allen
 

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Full Arrow System with db killer removed, BMC air flter, , ,
It should have been fine then, Not sure other than add the Power Commander which will smooth out the race ecu and correct the fuel map at low rpms after a fine tune. Mine hasn't even been tuned yet and runs beautifully. Not sure what to tell you. Sorry it didn't work. BSTs on mine to.
 

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Just a stab in the dark mate. Did you get the TPS reset ? Was there any other gear with the ECU, like rubber plugs and so forth ? Do you still have the Lambda sensor in the exhaust, I am pretty sure you should unplug that when you fit the race ECU.

Look, the race ECU is designed to give you improved performance, but you have to get the TPS reset at least, it is also a road commuting unit.

Not sure how they do it on the 920's but the dealer should be able to do that for you if he can do F4's.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Dons

No, the TPS wasnt reset, and the lambda sensor is still in the exhaust.

I will take the ECU to a Dyno tuner and get some dyno time and have it done properly

Thanx
 

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My sensor is still plugged in. Ecu ignores it. Is irrelevant. Tps just lowers idle. Mine Idles at 1850, will be lowered to 1350. But that hasn't been done yet either. Waiting on guy w VDST software to get back in town to do it. All the higher rpm will do is give you less engine braking going into a corner and might make it run hotter in traffic and is only crucial if you have a map written or a dyno tune done if you add a pc. If you do none of these things. You should be able to ride and enjoy. But sensor does nothing. With that set up, you should seriously be able to just go unless it is for a different bike.
 

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My sensor is still plugged in. Ecu ignores it. Is irrelevant. Tps just lowers idle. Mine Idles at 1850, will be lowered to 1350. But that hasn't been done yet either. Waiting on guy w VDST software to get back in town to do it. All the higher rpm will do is give you less engine braking going into a corner and might make it run hotter in traffic and is only crucial if you have a map written or a dyno tune done if you add a pc. If you do none of these things. You should be able to ride and enjoy. But sensor does nothing. With that set up, you should seriously be able to just go unless it is for a different bike.
The problem is a bit of a joke I think Jason, the inconsistency with these "Race ECU" is pretty bad, not just between different models, but also on the same models from owner to owner.
I think there is a lot more to it then you think, even with the TPS. Remember your ECU also runs/involves things like your air/fuel till the bike is up to running temp etc. And what about different fuels and height above sea level etc.

BTW, slightly higher revs in traffic helps your bike run a bit cooler.
 

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I'll be mapping a 920 tomorrow, i'll let you know what the Microtec does.

Well i know what it will do but i'll post the graphs up to show the gains.
 

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it's cooler initially because of circulates the coolant around but it will eventually get hotter, I've done it. it works for about 2 minutes and then we'll eventually climb. the only inconsistency I have heard about it is the different idle speeds, I was not aware of inconsistencies to the point of the bike not even running. I guess I just got lucky. good luck with whatever option you choose, I have a date with a dyno in 2 weeks.
 
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