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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone, i went on the group ride yesterday and my bike (2013 f3 800) was running fine.

Went to go for a ride today and bike starts (test ok) but the bike dosent rev past 5,000rpm at full throttle. It even takes a while to get to 5,000rpm.

Display came up with "gas position" and also came up with malfunction.

Bike turned off and restarted and had the same issue.

Bike has recently been serviced and as mentioned was running fine yesterday.

Please help. I have no idea how to resolve this issue
 

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Remove seat, rear plastics and fuel tank. Locate ecu behind battery box, uncouple the two plugs & fill with a smear of dielectric grease, reassemble and you should be good to go. If not you will need a new throttle assembly, should be covered under warranty.:)
 

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BTW, I had this same problem recur less than 100km AFTER my throttle tube was replaced under warranty, and this is what fixed it for me. Have covered about 2500km since with no further drama. I also went right through the bike at the following service and did the same with all the electrical connector plugs. You can buy dielectric grease at most auto supply shops in a tiny tube, you won't need much.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If there is one could you send me a how to link to remove fairings and tank.
 

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I have this problem from time to time, I have found to if I disconnect throttle connection (found under the right hand ram air tube cover) spray contact cleaner on connection and reconnect, problem solved.
 

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I have this problem from time to time, I have found to if I disconnect throttle connection (found under the right hand ram air tube cover) spray contact cleaner on connection and reconnect, problem solved.
You need to put something onto those contact to protect them after cleaning them with contact cleaner or they will corrode away.
 

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if you think about this for a minute. corrosion isnt' just in that connector. it's in all of them !! treat as many as you can . good luck

are you near the ocean?
 

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i put dielectric grease in the connector behind the right front ram air fairing. it seemed to have solved it although, my auto technician mind couldn't figure out exactly how. wish we can get an answer exactly as to why it occurs. if it is in fact a connection issue, i wonder if cutting the connectors off and soldering/heat shrinking the wires will solve it for good?
 

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Just put proper quality aviation connector on the wires, if its the connector thats faulty? I mean the aluminium connector that turns 1/2 turns to lock. Was thinking of putting them on my bike if the electrics start to prank.
 

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i put dielectric grease in the connector behind the right front ram air fairing. it seemed to have solved it although, my auto technician mind couldn't figure out exactly how. wish we can get an answer exactly as to why it occurs. if it is in fact a connection issue, i wonder if cutting the connectors off and soldering/heat shrinking the wires will solve it for good?
If anyone has the definitive answers to MV problems, we would be paid a great deal of money to keep quite as answers would detract from the core values of MV. Exotic temperamental motorcycles ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So i had the bike on charge for 4 days. Took it off this morning started fine and was well behaved for the ride to moto technica to have a new ctek lithium charger installed.
 

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i put dielectric grease in the connector behind the right front ram air fairing. it seemed to have solved it although, my auto technician mind couldn't figure out exactly how. wish we can get an answer exactly as to why it occurs. if it is in fact a connection issue, i wonder if cutting the connectors off and soldering/heat shrinking the wires will solve it for good?
Do not do that, rather replace with some decent alternative connectors mate.
 

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Do not do that, rather replace with some decent alternative connectors mate.
+1 but realize the problem is corrosion and it can be treated! there are many sprays you can get easily plus the good old dielectric grease that you have already even Wd40 would be better than nothing.

the wheel really doens't need to be reinvented here just maintenance !

fluke has a troubleshooting guide you can use and if you put a dvm across a connection showing 0.1 or greater drop the connection is weak. start at the battrey
 

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Wrong

+1 but realize the problem is corrosion and it can be treated! there are many sprays you can get easily plus the good old dielectric grease that you have already even Wd40 would be better than nothing.

the wheel really doens't need to be reinvented here just maintenance !

fluke has a troubleshooting guide you can use and if you put a dvm across a connection showing 0.1 or greater drop the connection is weak. start at the battrey
The problem is not corrosion, it's shit connections because of crappy equipment, these are brand new machines we're talking about Frank. MV stopped using the good quality connectors on the new bikes, corrosion is just another problem which will pop us sooner rather than never.
I don't have to google Fluke or reinvent the wheel, I've been an electrician in all kinds of industry for almost 30 years.
 

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The problem is not corrosion, it's shit connections because of crappy equipment, these are brand new machines we're talking about Frank. MV stopped using the good quality connectors on the new bikes, corrosion is just another problem which will pop us sooner rather than never.
I don't have to google Fluke or reinvent the wheel, I've been an electrician in all kinds of industry for almost 30 years.
Donsy I wasn't telling you How to check the voltage drop I was passing it on to wenger828! I agreed with you not to cut and solder. so if he check for the troubleshooting doc it should help him out !! it must be how I try and follow the quote , oh well some day I'll figure it out .
 

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Donsy I wasn't telling you How to check the voltage drop I was passing it on to wenger828! I agreed with you not to cut and solder. so if he check for the troubleshooting doc it should help him out !! it must be how I try and follow the quote , oh well some day I'll figure it out .
No worries Frank, I'm not being pissy about it, I just responded because you quoted me.:)
I bought a vast amount of the connectors MV which are used on the 1st generation bikes, and then later the more common Weatherseal products as well as Deutsch modules, all better than the stuff used on the new bikes.
 

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No worries Frank, I'm not being pissy about it, I just responded because you quoted me.:)
I bought a vast amount of the connectors MV which are used on the 1st generation bikes, and then later the more common Weatherseal products as well as Deutsch modules, all better than the stuff used on the new bikes.
Yeah I hit the wrong button again my bad. your well stocked for sure. In my business we use some mil spec connectors Deutsch is one of them. When did they change to the cheaper quality product line?

I'm in favor of treating the complete harness with the improvements on my 2010 brut. across the board better in every way. :)
 

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Dons, I didn't know you were hoarding those rubber two-pin connectors! I could have used some when I ws doing my turn signal mod!

(Are they still available?)
 
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