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I'm sending my forks out to get the stock bottoms surgically removed and repalced with radial mounts and... I'm thinking I can suspend the bike with rope from a beam above and leave it there for a week, or I can buy some pit-bull stands to hold the frame.. maybe when the panels are off, I can jack it up from under, but I'm not sure I really trust that :stir: .. What is the best solution for keeping the front up with no forks??

Thanks-

Coleman.
 

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Col3man said:
I'm sending my forks out to get the stock bottoms surgically removed and repalced with radial mounts and... I'm thinking I can suspend the bike with rope from a beam above and leave it there for a week, or I can buy some pit-bull stands to hold the frame.. maybe when the panels are off, I can jack it up from under, but I'm not sure I really trust that :stir: .. What is the best solution for keeping the front up with no forks??

Thanks-

Coleman.
I think i've seen these front stands that have a part that goes up under the nose somehow. Not sure, I need one too to take the front wheel off.

matt
 

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A front stand lifts the bike from the lower fork clamp, see them in the paddocks on race/track days.

Other methods sound a bit dodgey!
 

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The MV has no hole in the lower triple for that type os front stand.

Best bet is to hook straps to the upper triple and hang from the beam like you thought.
 

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Hanging from overhead with a hoist works well. BUT DO NOT hang from the upper triple if you plan on fork removal. The upper triple is held on in three places....both left and right forks via the pinch bolts and third, the pinch bolt in the center that actually pinches the center nut (steering stem nut, spanner type with the many holes). The steering stem nut does NOT hold the top clamp in place. The center pinch of the top clamp simply secures the stem nut from moving. If you hang from the top clamp, and remove the forks, then all the weight will be on the pinch area around the steering nut. THe steering nut is in fact underneath the top clamp, even though you can see it.

Run webbing through the frame behind the steering stem....you may need to remove air box for this.

FWIW...I use 1 inch tube webbing, previously used as rock climbing anchors for attachment to frames. YOu can buy it by the foot at any climbing outfitter, and works great for making your own soft ties etc.
Be sure you know your webbing knots though.
 

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lewdog998 said:
Hanging from overhead with a hoist works well. BUT DO NOT hang from the upper triple if you plan on fork removal. The upper triple is held on in three places....both left and right forks via the pinch bolts and third, the pinch bolt in the center that actually pinches the center nut (steering stem nut, spanner type with the many holes). The steering stem nut does NOT hold the top clamp in place. The center pinch of the top clamp simply secures the stem nut from moving. If you hang from the top clamp, and remove the forks, then all the weight will be on the pinch area around the steering nut. THe steering nut is in fact underneath the top clamp, even though you can see it.

Run webbing through the frame behind the steering stem....you may need to remove air box for this.

FWIW...I use 1 inch tube webbing, previously used as rock climbing anchors for attachment to frames. YOu can buy it by the foot at any climbing outfitter, and works great for making your own soft ties etc.
Be sure you know your webbing knots though.
Damn your right, I forgot all about that. Nice catch :yo:
I'm a dumbass :laughing:
 

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i agree
hang it from the beams then put a jack under the front just to stop it wobbling around
way i do it is rear stand then balance the bike jack it up higher than what you want
then strap it to the beams then lower to take weight on the straps

jas
 

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I built a contraption out of 2x4s and a 2x6 that works pretty good:





Note I'm using straps under the bottom triple clamp, it's pretty solid.

I held up the bars with safety wire, seemed to work OK. Same for the calipers.

I have a small bottle jack under then engine mostly to keep things stable, not really for lifting. It won't work for lifting much. I just had the bike on my front and rear stand, tied it up, then took the stand out and dropped the forks out.

I've heard that an 8 foot step ladder works good for this as well.
 

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acruhl said:
I built a contraption out of 2x4s and a 2x6 that works pretty good:





Note I'm using straps under the bottom triple clamp, it's pretty solid.

I held up the bars with safety wire, seemed to work OK. Same for the calipers.

I have a small bottle jack under then engine mostly to keep things stable, not really for lifting. It won't work for lifting much. I just had the bike on my front and rear stand, tied it up, then took the stand out and dropped the forks out.

I've heard that an 8 foot step ladder works good for this as well.

Very nice.

Couple questions.....

Is that pressure treated pine or just plain southern yellow pine?
If not treated, do you have a termite contract?
Nails or screws?
and I see that the frame is basically built around the bike, how do you plan to remove the bike once reassembled. Will you burn the woodwork off?
 

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Regular pine that you get at Home Depot. Screwed it together with drywall screws.

The only caveat on this is just to be smart about it. The A frame 2x4s are just touching the floor, and also just touching the bottom of the 2x6, which is flush with the shorty 2x4s holding the top of the A frame together.

What I'm getting at is try to get the most of the load going through the wood and not the screws.

I'm not 100% convinced this is a perfect design (I know nothing structural about wood), but I think it's fine for this job. There's not really that much weight on it after the forks and wheel come off.

It sat like this a few weeks while waiting for Thermosman to do the forks. No problems. I even worked on it and put on the rearsets while it was like this.
 

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Or, you could get the front up in the air somehow, and just pull the fairings and put jackstands under the engine cases on either side.
 

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acruhl said:
Regular pine that you get at Home Depot. Screwed it together with drywall screws.

The only caveat on this is just to be smart about it. The A frame 2x4s are just touching the floor, and also just touching the bottom of the 2x6, which is flush with the shorty 2x4s holding the top of the A frame together.

What I'm getting at is try to get the most of the load going through the wood and not the screws.

I'm not 100% convinced this is a perfect design (I know nothing structural about wood), but I think it's fine for this job. There's not really that much weight on it after the forks and wheel come off.

It sat like this a few weeks while waiting for Thermosman to do the forks. No problems. I even worked on it and put on the rearsets while it was like this.
well...since you were wondering about the structure...you could eliminate the need for 2 different types of lumber (if purchasing and not using scrap of course). Using two 2x4's srewed together in lieu of the one 2x6. it would also be stronger. This is commonly used in headers and they also come prefab for larger spans like garage doors.
 

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I used a 8x8 beam, a aluminum A frame ladder and quality straps to lift the front. It needs to be a solid ladder not some kind of flimsy 20$ ladder you can get at home depot.

When my wife saw the ladder she was very excited because now we can do the painting and stuff like this in our house by ourselfs, so I don't know whether the ladder was a good idea.......
 

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lewdog998 said:
Using two 2x4's srewed together in lieu of the one 2x6. it would also be stronger. This is commonly used in headers and they also come prefab for larger spans like garage doors.
Good point, but I already had the 2x6 and it was close to the right length already... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Cool- Thanks for the replies- I have a beam ovehead that is very sturdy.. I just need the straps.. I think I will get the webbing figure "8" type- I have a decent rear stand and I'll get something under the case..

Coleman.
 

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ONE more tip.

Be sure to clean the forks really well, especially the cracks around the clamps with a brush or toothbush (preferably your wifes or childs)

Due to minimal clearance, a small piece of grit or sand can scratch the tubes (while passing through the clamps) during removal.

oops one more....make sure the moon is full as this will assist in lifting the bike.
 

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So...what if you want to tighten the steering stem nut...you don't want ANY force on the front forks/triple...do you just use the frame??? or, will using the lower triple to suspend it work out fine for tightening the steering nut (to remove play in the front end...)
 

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Take off the tank, and there's a cross bar on the frame there. Hang it from above, once again. If you've got solid rearsets, you can put jack stands under them to reduce the amount of weight that you're holding from above, too.

There are special frame stands for this, but you still have to take the bodywork off, etc. They are nice because you don't have all this stuff in your way hanging from above if you use something like in my photos. But if you're hanging it from a beam from the ceiling, then it's not a big deal. I'd rather do that than use stands, myself. The stands are sort of just in the wrong place at times when you're trying to work.
 

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attach to the frame.

if the bike is hung from the lower triple then the stem is under pressure and therefore you will not get an accurate assesment of steering head play
 
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