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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
All

I have been on here for over a year and only just noticed the FAQ section, so thought I would have a browse and noticed some incorrect information and miss understandings in to the topic "Battery Tender".

I have learnt alot from many of you on here, and my area of expertise is power supply in the automotive world (I work for Jaguar Power Supply Systems as the Lead 12V Engineer for the F-Type), so I should be in a good position to offer you advice in this area.

If you have any questions in this subject matter please feel free to post them below or ever PM me and I will answer some questions.

I would first like to point out a HUGE misconception that was posted in the FAQ that you must charge your motorcycle battery at sub 2A, you dont need this at all! DC power is not "pushed into a battery" but mearly accepted by the battery, you could try and still 100A into your bike battery, it will not accept the charge, a bike battery will prob take 10A at 25C (temperature VERY important), offering it 100A will not harm it massively, however please dont all get so tied up on this. The manufacture will prob condition batteries at 5A for your motorbike batteries, so this 2A max or your battery will die is ****!

Your bike batteries will prob not accept anymore then 5A and this will not cause excessive "Gassing" on a AGM bike battery. Your large car battery (Say a big H8 from a Range Rover) will take approx 70A (and even deliver this), the manufactures will recomend charging current limited to 0.25 x Cap. So 25A is fine.

SUMMARY - In an ideal world charge at 13.5V (which means your Potential Difference PD, is low, meaning your battery wont accept many amps.

I can talk all day about random things, so Id rather anything you would like to know ask and I will answer or be honest and say I dont know.
I do tend to spend 99% of my life on "big batteries" as you guys might call them but remember I also work with B19 Batteries with 10-14AH on our Jaguars, which are similar to bike batteries. I also have EXTENSIVE facilities and equipment to perform tests if required or even for interest (Hey thats how we all learn)

Sheldon
 

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Thanks for that, Sheldon!
 

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So, what is our opinion on an initializing charge for a new AGM battery like the Yuasa YZT10S we use?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well that one makes me look a bit of a plonker in a way. The manufactures rate them at 0.9A for charge current! That to me is incredibly low, but would give it a good conditioning for its life to come. When you think we have 350W alternators on our bikes a bit stupid too! I would imagine your bike on a warm day with no loads putting 15A-20A out and offering it to that battery and its fine, so its no different to charge it at that!

The best advice I can give to you guys who put a new battery in your bike (or even when charging it), is that you charge it at 25C or close to (Ideally remove and charge in your house). 25C is the sweet spot and upto 35C is fine really! (You USA/AUS boys), Id try and avoid anything over 40C as you will gas her which will increase the ageing effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Loosely based on what you've said............... I've ditched my £60 trickle charger for my 20 year-old standard car/bike battery charger set on a timer, twice a day for 20 minutes.
The trickle charger always made sure my battery was flat if I didn't regularly use the bike and a total waste of money - the display would always say it was charged and in good condition but mostly the bike wouldn't even turn over.
I was also told about limiting the charge current but my solution has been working great for a year now without any trouble and when I go away on a week-long tour, the battery is always strong.
 

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Thanks. Thats good info.... however I see nothing about High voltage low intial current?
I'll look it up and post the source info.
All the OEMs in this country have been on the warpath about battery servicing and maintenance as warranty claims come out of goodwill budget.

99.9% of failed batteries in first 90 days after sale are sulfation damage from either improper set up (read, dump acid in it and put it in the bike) or lack of maintenance (read, service battery, put it in bike on showroom where it sits for 6 months or more and goes flat).

The YTZ batteries come from Yuasa pre-filled and serviced....but they need to be gotten out of the crate and put on maintenance charge as soon as shipped to the dealer or they die. A lot of MVs sit in the crate for months....all the while with a dying battery.

My Brutale was pretty fresh when I bought it.....8 years later and the battery is just fine, thank you. I keep it in the MV provided maintenance charger and occasionally will hook it up to my NOCO Genius 1100 just for fun. (Used to be an Optimate 4+.... But the NOCO is better).
 

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does anyone know if there's an average battery life expectancy? I've had varied results an got in the habit of replacing them in the 3+ to 4 year time just to be safe. my bikes sit on maintenance chargers. on other forums some are lucky to get 2 years even on chargers. I know a lot is the initial setup to good life. other that that don't let them go dead. thx Frank
 

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Battery life is a result of construction. It is a consumable item with reversability until chemistry gets in the way.

You battery is marked with its life expectancy...or should be.
 

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Chuck I have not seen a marking as of yet with life expectancy. in automotive you can almost bet the life of a 36 month batt is 36 months. bikes seam to get varied life. some do better as daily drivers over the ones like mine that sit. I think I'll keep my dump them before they dump me change @4 years if they make it. if you've seen the life marking can you tell me what brand? thx Frank
 

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I can look, but I've been in the 5-8 year range on all of my bike's batteries.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OEM car manufactures are warranting 12V batteries for 3-5 years. However company car owners here are needing new ones after a year. Stop Start not working being the usual compliant. This being based on a VSOF (Cold Cranking Voltage) that the Power supply software inhibit under a certain value, then also "hard charge" at a value near the inhibit 0.3V for example.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll look it up and post the source info.
All the OEMs in this country have been on the warpath about battery servicing and maintenance as warranty claims come out of goodwill budget.

99.9% of failed batteries in first 90 days after sale are sulfation damage from either improper set up (read, dump acid in it and put it in the bike) or lack of maintenance (read, service battery, put it in bike on showroom where it sits for 6 months or more and goes flat).

The YTZ batteries come from Yuasa pre-filled and serviced....but they need to be gotten out of the crate and put on maintenance charge as soon as shipped to the dealer or they die. A lot of MVs sit in the crate for months....all the while with a dying battery.

My Brutale was pretty fresh when I bought it.....8 years later and the battery is just fine, thank you. I keep it in the MV provided maintenance charger and occasionally will hook it up to my NOCO Genius 1100 just for fun. (Used to be an Optimate 4+.... But the NOCO is better).
Yeap battery warranty our biggest cost here!
A service charge for most of our AGMs are 20A at 14.8V till they pull less then 0.5A average for a 2 hour period.
 
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