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Discussion Starter #1
I have this weird problem with my 2012 Brutale 1090R. Ever since I've had it (bought new), it's had a tendency to occasionally stall for no apparent reason. This usually happens when trickling through traffic and is remedied by quickly dropping the clutch and jump-starting it.

Lately - it's got 21000km on the clock- it's stalled in heavy traffic a couple of times and I've had to use the starter. The last time this happened, the starter could barely turn the engine over and I thought I was going to have to push it off the road (dangerous). Again today. It took about 5 times and really felt like it was dead.

The thing I don't get is that it starts fine first thing in the morning, after sitting in the garage all night (I commute on it daily), it's only after a 20km ride that the problems happen.

Is it an alternator/charging problem or is the battery on the way out? Or both?
 

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Get the battery load tested to verify. If it's the original battery, you could be near the end of its service anyway. Pull the seat and get to the battery terminals. Start the bike up and put a volt meter to it. At idle you could be right at 12v. Rev it up and hold 3000 rpm. Does the needle move near 13volts? If it does, your charging system is ok. If it stays put, there's a charging system problem. Now you know.
 

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Meteoroz....there are numerous threads about battery failure in the newer bikes because of the inexpensive battery brand being used. The load test recommendation is a good one...but, if you battery is a Koyo, I'd dump it and get a Yuasa or other quality battery...you get what you pay for in this instance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just checked and it's a Yuasa YZT something. RACV are useless. The only thing they'll do with a bike is tow it - they won't even test the battery! Anyway, having stood in the car park for 4 hours, it starts like a champ now. Seems that actually riding the bike drains the battery, then when it's parked, the battery recharges somewhat. Can any conclusions be drawn from that, I wonder? Have to wait to get home for the MultiMeter test.
 

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There have been a number of similiar threads about this type of thing. In summary, you need to go over all the battery cable connections with dielectric grease and make sure things are good and tight. The battery cables are minimal sizing and have little to no tolerance to corrosion at the connection points.
Eddypro has had success with getting an auto-electrician to make up larger diameter cables.

I am not surprised that RACV won't touch it. The ecu is very sensitive to spikes in voltages etc that occur when jump starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks revhead1957. I also have the race ECU and a powercommander on, so it would probably be even worse for jump starting. I thought they could have at least checked the voltages for me, but not.
 

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I have a 2012 1090R and have a few issues starting it when cold. I happened to do a check this morning (13 dgC in Perth) and found

Ignition Off - 12.5V
Ignition On - 12.1V
Start - Volts plummeted
At Idle - 14V

I am looking at getting a new battery. I am looking at maybe a Lithium one for higher start amps. I can get one ogf those for around the same price as the Yuasa YTZ10S, although other AGM batteries are cheaper. The Koyo fitted as standard definitely looks as though it's near the end of life. Not sure if that helps
 

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As mentioned elsewhere, each cell of a battery generates 2.2VDC. A six cell battery in good chemical and physical condition should hold 13.2 VDC. When in the bike and charging via th ealternator, the system has a spec for charge. It is above 14VDC
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, results of test:-
resting voltage: 12.84
Ignition on: 12.3
Turning over: 10.5
Engine running: 14

So the problem must be that the battery is getting a bit long in the tooth, these colder mornings don't help, plus the engine must be a bit harder to turn over when hot, for some reason.
 

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after running the bike or after charging, the battery should be well about 13.2, even 13.8 until the charge normalizes. If you test the battery after charging and after it sits for over half hour, then you should see the readings you stated just above. If you measured just after a long ride that should have charged the battery, then your readings should read much higher than the resting voltage you listed. The voltage dip seems pretty intense too when turning over. May be time for new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Those readings were after my 20km trip home, an hour or so after the bike had been turned off. I'm going to try putting it on the trickle charger overnight and see how it goes again tomorrow morning. The test there is that after I arrive at work, I kill the engine then try to start the bike. It usually chugs and struggles to turn the motor over.

I suspect that you're right, Fragile, the battery probably needs to be replaced. There's nothing that kills enjoyment of riding like wondering if your bike is going to die in heavy traffic. The embarrassment :cussing:
 

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Let me go start my bike and measure the voltage be right back
 

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Just checked. Key on dips to 12.2v. On starting it barely budges!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, latest update: Left the bike on the charger from 5pm til 8am, rode to work (20km) then turned bike off and tried to start it. Same problem - barely enough to turn the engine over.

So I've called Peter Stevens and they have two options for replacement, a Yuasa YTZ10S (same as what's already in it) for $250 <gulp>, or a Lithium battery for $199. Apparently the lithium is lighter, lasts about 3 times longer and is easier to revive if drained.

Anyone know of a cheaper place to buy batteries in Melbourne? Have any experience of lithium batteries?
 

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Lithium great if it don't get cold in your region. Pros and cons to Lithium but in short, you really cant go wrong with either as long as you get a healthy battery. The Yuasa's are time proven and durable, but they do need to be maintained not driven for over a month. Also if you get lithium get the largest one that will fit because the capacity given in equivalent amp hours is not the same as what is labeled for the Yuasa VRLA battery. i.e. you need the equivalent of a 9amp hour lead acid capacity battery, especially if you run gear with engine off. to get the equivalent capacity lithium Iron like the Shorai you need one rated at 18 amp hours equivalent or larger. In cold weather operations, a lithium type may have trouble keeping up with the VRLA battery. JMO YMMV.
 

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I had real issues starting the bike last Friday so canned the idea of the lithium and bought a Motobatt. Installed Saturday and the bike starts better than it ever has when cold, so the Koyo may always have been a bit weak for the task. The engine now spins a bit faster and fires. I also had a few occasions where I would stop the bike when hot for a brief period and took a couple of goes to start. On those times the bike really sounded like a flat battery.
On this evidence I would recommend changing out the Koyo at the first sign of a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
On this evidence I would recommend changing out the Koyo at the first sign of a problem.
Mine had a Yuasa YTZ10S. MV must have realised that the Koyos weren't up to scratch at some point.

Although, even with the new Lithium, it still cranks over more weakly when hot. No idea why.
 

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Now that everybody has new batteries, follow the advice from other who's gone before. When you have time, have some new decent quality cables made up for the (-) which goes to the engine, and then another two (+) cable's, one from battery to starter solenoid, and the other from solenoid to starter motor.
At the very least, clean those connection points, and put electrical conductive paste on the connections.

Have a good look at the lugs on the cables on your bikes, I have seen how badly some of those a crimped and corroded, a bit of solder would go a long way towards having a decent connection.
 
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