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Discussion Starter #1
Right I'll try keep this as short as possible :blah:

Back in May of this year the only just over a year old Numax YTZ10bs battery gave up , keep losing it charge (brought it from ebay)

I decided to get a replacment from local battery company, who had choice of Numax one or a more expensive Varta one (equalivent called a TTZ10 BS) .

I took the Varta one, within three weeks the battery had died ..wouldn't hold its charge. Took it back to the shop who replaced no questions asked, as just week before another TTZ10BS they had sold, had failed within a few weeks.

Further three weeks down the line and the new replacement battery is not holding a charge (on or offf the bike) Its had a few long runs but does sit there for a few day not being used.

I've checked the bike . Its charging the battery at apprx 13.30 volts at tickover and max is 14.50 volts at higher revs - it never goes over this level (so the bike is not cooking the battery ). There is no sparking when connecting up the terminals to indicate a large power drain and when checking for a power drain and its mininal 0.03 amp.




When I got the replacement battery, I filled up the battery with acid as per instructions, but left to stand over night before charging. Then charged it up using an optimate 3 bike charger until the maintaining light came on. Then left to settle for 1 hour before fitting it to the bike.


I charged it on and off the bike with odd result in voltage

For example charging the battery up, off the bike (fully charged) 13.17 volt, overnight in morning it read 12.68, then during the day (a very warm one ) it dropped to 10.53 volts !! .Next day charged it up again and for 48hr its stays put at 12.41 volts , put it the bike and just about turns it over .Voltage but no power (amps)

So I'm questioning whether this is the right battery for the bike? I did make the point at the initial purchase was it lies on its side and oddly the replacement battery always produces more volts whilst its upright ?

Everthing works on the bike fine the only one thing I did notice was now warm the ECU gets after a long run on a very hot day .

So could I be the unlucky sod getting two duff new batterys or is the bike doing something odd to them (if so what ! :))


PS I dont know the batch number of the first battery


 

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Stop pissing away money on "cheap" batteries and then bitching about them not lasting.

Buy a Yuasa.
 

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umm the Varta was just as expensive as Yuasa one !

(in Europe,Varta is recognised a decent battery manufacturer.....or at least I thought it was )
I bought a Motobatt in the UK

It has performed fine.

They have a good rep and I like the way there is a terminal in each corner making connection easy.

Joe
 

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Sorry for jumping on you Northy. There have been a ton of battery questions. Make certain the battery you get is of the correct, or better, amp-hours. Don't be in a hurry to install it...take time to do a very thorough initial charge. That charge should be at a minimum 24 hours...I would let it go 48 for certainty.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No problems . I know there's been a lot battery post ,I've been checking

The battery was given a good charge and left before fitting ...still need to know if its the bike or battery :)

...looks like battery ?
 

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Yes, my bet would be on a battery without the capacity (amp-hours) to maintain voltage while spinning up the bike for start.

As has been stated elsewhere, lead-acid batteries produce 2.2 volts DC per cell. That means the voltage on a six cell battery in good condition, fully charged should be in the neighborhood of 13.2 VDC.

The capacity of the battery is determined by the amount of anode, cathode, and electrolyte present within the battery case...(and how those materials are combined in the case).

If the battery does not have enough capacity, voltage will degrade as load is applied (starting) and the voltage will not support ECU operation and the bike will not start.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Problem Solved
I’ve been digging around our battery shops , bike dealer etc have work out that the problem is the battery type.
Recently Yuasa brought out the TTZ-10s as “ version” of the YTZ-10s and Varta followed this up with an similar one but as they don’t make an equivalent to the YTZ-10s they match it to a the newer TTZ-10s ….which is what I got and at the time the battery shop was convinced its was the right battery for the bike. (i.e. It would work on its side )
However both of these TTZ-10s batteries(Yuasa/Varta) are supplied with acid for shop or the purchaser to fill up and then charge etc and will work at 45 degree but NOT on there side. Confirmed by battery distributor …….after my two batteries had failed.
The newer TTZ-10s is what we call in our trade “cost or valued engineered” ….Ok it will work for most cases but not for the MV’s and not the same quality of the YTZ-10s. Another added factor the high alternator output the MV puts out at standard , as that could help lower quality battery die quicker than normal.
The YTZ10s, like the Motobatt ones are sealed at the factory and are the only ones to fit . The fill it yourself & seal up type …will just die.
Anyway I have a YTZ-10s fitted …….and running fine.
So as Silentservice you were correct ! 
 

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Northy, I am glad you got your situation straightened out...and I've learned something in the process...a win-win!:smoking:
 
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