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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guys.

Few quick questions in regards to the battery in a f4 brutale

I have a 2005 F4 Brutale and i dont know if its a common problem or this has to do with the main wiring in the bike. But my battery discharges over a few days of not riding. I do have a Battery tender for the bike. Does this mean i have to have it always tendered?

If you guys know anything more in regards to this it would be great.

Hate the part of doing a roll start everytime the battery dies
 

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If it is the original battery, it is time for a replacement.
 

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Ok well i hope thats the case. I know that the alternator works do to when i rev the front light dims in and out. So there is no problem with that.

But over all did anyone have the problem with new battery's on the bike
 

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If it is the original battery, it is time for a replacement.
+1

I'm fortunate in being able to ride my Brutale at least 4-5 times per week and have never used a battery tender. I have just placed the battery after 4 years.
 

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?

vodkamune;
what is the voltage measured across the battery terminals at 2,000 RPM?

does the red charging light come on, when the headlight dims?
 

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Ok well i hope thats the case. I know that the alternator works do to when i rev the front light dims in and out. So there is no problem with that.

But over all did anyone have the problem with new battery's on the bike

This is a 7 year old bike...have you replaced the battery?

The new bikes come with KOYO batteries, which are junk. The Yuasa you have has done yeoman's duty if it is the original.
 

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The Yuasa you have has done yeoman's duty if it is the original.
I have an 07F4 that had the same issue, slow to start, run out of juice after a day or three, eventually the fuel pump didn't have enough juice and was blowing fuses after a mile or so. I had to push the bike home one day. I thought I had electrical problems, oh shit:ahhh:
Switched out the Yuasa for a new Lithium ion job, and its been like a new bike ever since. Starts like a dream. No need for a tender, not a single fuse pop, no dimming headlight.... And you save about three pounds from the stock unit. Add up the cost of carbon and titanium to get comparable weight savings.:naughty:
 

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again, vodkamune;
what is the voltage measured across the battery terminals at 2,000 RPM?

putting new battery in it won't help if the charging system isn't doing it job

leave the battery on a charger for a couple of days then measure the voltage

have the battery load tested
 

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Discussion Starter #10
again, vodkamune;
what is the voltage measured across the battery terminals at 2,000 RPM?

putting new battery in it won't help if the charging system isn't doing it job

leave the battery on a charger for a couple of days then measure the voltage

have the battery load tested
I dont have a problem with the charge the red battery light does not light up. And the battery is getting power charge back i can see it with the head light flickering when i rev the engine

so i guess you guys might be right with the battery crapping out on me ... well i am planning to do a full maintenance on the bike ... so pro be a good start to get the electrical cleaned up. :)
 

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Noel's point is to simply check the system to ensure proper charging system operation. It is basic preventative maintenance. A seven year old battery, however, is a battery that needs to be replaced. It is an electro-chemical device that has a finite life.
 

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To put it more succinctly , your battery is fcuked...


as a footnote, Your alternator is designed to top up the battery and not provide all the emf for the bike all the time..If you run with a scrap battery, consider the implications of having to replave your alternator when it overheats...
 

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wtf?

Guys;
go back to post #3 his headlight dims and gets brighter as he revs it........the charging system isn't working right

just checked my Brutale
12.61V key off
12.16V key on
14.79V at idle
14.90V at 2,000 RPM

the R1150GS
12.61V key off
11.89V key on
14.05V at idle
14.09V at 2,000 RPM

and no shit the headlight doesn't dim either

he can ride it for 3 days and then the battery is sacked
days 1 & 2 it cranks and starts.....

vodkamune;
end the suspense start it and measure system voltage at idle and 2,000 RPM
 

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Noel, if the battery is truly bad it will act as a huge load on the system and the voltage regulator won't be able to balance voltage.
 

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I'm with Noel on this, it is definately worth checking the alternator as per the workshop manual. It doesn't cost anything and at least it rules it out.
 

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I have an 07F4 that had the same issue, slow to start, run out of juice after a day or three, eventually the fuel pump didn't have enough juice and was blowing fuses after a mile or so. I had to push the bike home one day. I thought I had electrical problems, oh shit:ahhh:
Switched out the Yuasa for a new Lithium ion job, and its been like a new bike ever since. Starts like a dream. No need for a tender, not a single fuse pop, no dimming headlight.... And you save about three pounds from the stock unit. Add up the cost of carbon and titanium to get comparable weight savings.:naughty:

There great indeed these Ion ones :)
 

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As an aside on this, we resurrected a 2003 Oldsmobile Valero...don't ask why...it's battery was dead but showed 12.5 volts under static conditions. When the car was jump started and voltage was checked the voltage was between 9 and 8 VDC. Great, you think knowingly, the alternator or voltage regulator is gone, too. But wait, there's more! But a new out of the box battery. Check voltage, 12.84. Install into car. Start car. Check voltage......14.84. All is well.


Moral of the story: When a battery can no longer support chemically producing voltage, changes occur which make the battery a detriment to the circuit....start by changing the battery.
 

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As an aside on this, we resurrected a 2003 Oldsmobile Valero...don't ask why...it's battery was dead but showed 12.5 volts under static conditions. When the car was jump started and voltage was checked the voltage was between 9 and 8 VDC. Great, you think knowingly, the alternator or voltage regulator is gone, too. But wait, there's more! But a new out of the box battery. Check voltage, 12.84. Install into car. Start car. Check voltage......14.84. All is well.


Moral of the story: When a battery can no longer support chemically producing voltage, changes occur which make the battery a detriment to the circuit....start by changing the battery.
depends how the system is wired Chuck

my '72 R-75 when i picked it up one the docks, showed dash lights but no matter how fast you towed it it wouldn't pop once, it had to be jump started:wtf:

my '75 RD-350 would start WITHOUT a battery, 1st kick every time:naughty:

my Mother's '57 Dodge wagon would die instantly from 3,000RPM if the battery was disconnected:wtf:

i have driven Chevys without a battery for months (i didn't have one)

so the 50+Amp alternator in the MV can't handle a low motorcycle battery.....but the 37 Amp alternator in my El Camino can handle a low 600A/h one?

charge the battery then load test the POS, either it passes or not, end the suspicion
 
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